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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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John Wilder
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 4741 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 907 | Posts 1700 | Stars 1126 | Ratings 860
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Inferno (5.12a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Cruxin! Super fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Divine Comedy (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Super fun, well worth doing. Really good rock for such a young route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Inferno (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Super fun climb, thanks to Mike for finding and bolting it. Pretty thin, similar in effort to other short 12a's in the park, imho.

That said, if you're too short to make one of the spans I made, it would add at least 3 moves and a much harder clip to the route, for what it's worth. Description is accurate, and if you're at your limit, stick clip the first two for safety, the second bolt is the hardest clip,imho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Pitch one is not correct- it starts further up the gully than marked in this photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Olive Oil is actually mis-marked here- you can't see the route from the trailhead. Rose Tower proper is partially visible underneath the 'Jackrabbit Buttress' text. Olive Oil climbs the southeastern aspect of Rose Tower and is thus not visible at all from the trailhead.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Love Stinks (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Did this with an old 70m today and it barely made it ledge to ledge, no way could we have belayed from the ground. A fresh 70m should be fine, but probably best to belay from the ledge (single belay bolt) if your rope is old.

That said, mega fun pitch. Well worth doing!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hammered (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route for sure. I'd recommend using a regular draw on the first bolt off the ledge, then back clean the second draw after clipping the 3rd to reduce drag. Done this way, you don't risk a ledge fall if you blow the first roof.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hungover (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: What a great pitch, three distinct cruxes provide a good challenge for the 5.11 leader. Moving past the first roof is the easiest of them, imho. The sting in the tail going for the chains was my favorite part, no free ride to the chains on this one!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Finally did this again over the weekend- super fun. With a 70m, we did this in 7 pitches to the terrace on Solar Slab, and could have done it in 6 if we had linked the first two pitches. Single rack to a #4 with doubles in green and purple camalots and a set of nuts was just right if you're comfortable at the grade.

The route still needs more traffic to clean up the 5.7/5.8 pitches, so do tread lightly, but otherwise it's just as fun as I remember it being!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Deimos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: I'd definitely take a #5 C4 for this route- it was nice for the belay and certainly nice for the last pitch- especially if you're breaking into the grade.

Really good, no harder than 5.9, imho- the crux is basically a stemming problem with really good feet. Think three dimensionally on this one and you'll be fine- try to thug through this and you'll struggle for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Monkey Bar Boulder : Classic Monkey (V6)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Never liked the start of this thing- if you stand start off the big sidepull jug its a fun, yet challenging v5ish thing. This also avoids the subterranean groveling.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Pockets of Dirt (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 24, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the heads up on the bolt. The rock on this one is iffy at best- finding good rock to replace the second to last pro bolt last year was tough- and i'm not optimistic about the life span of that hole.

I'll try to get out to it or let someone else know about it and maybe try a 5/8" 5-piece or a glue-in and see how it holds up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (Full) (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: There are several descent options off Mescalito- two that I know of off the north side, one off the south. The north side options are either double 60m rappels (or what you did with a 70m) or a walk-off with no rappels (tricky, but doable- aim for the second fork high in the drainage- you come down about 150' up the left hand side of the fork).

The south side is pretty well cairned as I understand it- Branch Whitney and crew use it for their hikes, so it may be doable with no rope or a single ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Foruitous (5.10d PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Did this route with a single 70m and comfortably rappelled down to the mid-station right of the route and then to the ground. I didn't see an anchor out left and considering the rightward traversing nature of the route, I'd be surprised that an anchor out left would be safer than the one straight down from the top of the route.

I will, of course, defer to locals on this one- I can only relay my own experience on this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag : November Daze (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: rope stretch and the length of your anchor kit aside, when a route is marked 100', it is usually done so to indicate a 60m is sufficient for lowering/rappelling, you should be fine.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: You actually never spend time in the wash on the approach to the Fringe- rather, you stay on a trail on the hillside to the right in this photo, dropping into the wash only to cross it up onto the slabs on the other side.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Every time i think of this move on the route, I am reminded that Honnold soloed this thing. Crazy stuff.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : The Hood : South Central : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The line up the middle of this photo (right of the blue streaks) is Bloodline, 5.12b (the first route at the Hood), and Borderline, 5.13a (right of Bloodline, both traverse to the common anchor in the middle).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: If you're on fiddler, this pitch should be well with in your wheel house. It's the easiest on the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Nope- that's the spicy pitch! From the last bolt to the anchor is well over 30', maybe 40'. Not too hard, but certainly airy!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Not Fade Away (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: This thing is super fun and really well bolted- good holds, fun movement, well worth getting on.

For locals- if someone is of a mind, the last chain draw should be lengthened- as it is, the carabiner's gate loads onto the rock and opens when you weight the draw. Not so worrisome as the carabiner is steel, but probably not ideal either.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: This is, without a doubt, my favorite picture on this site.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Huecos Rancheros (5.12c)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: I found this route to be somewhat out of character with the other routes- and for that reason, i'm not a huge fan. imho, the route would be better as a 38m 5.11c/d to the last hueco before the nasty hard crux that gives the climb its grade. It's just so out of character with the rest of the route, i had a hard time motivating to try and redpoint. To each their own, but I much prefer consistency in my rock climbs.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Cytotoxic (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Cytotoxic goes all the way to the top of the cliff with independent anchors. According to the current Skaha guide, this route has a sorted history- sounds like you could contribute further to the story!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: You bust left out onto the face and up to the anchor- you leave the corner immediately as the 5.12 section starts. That pitch was probably my least favorite on the climb- I hear the .11d variation start is much better.


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