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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact John Wilder


Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,198
Last Year: 548
Last 30 Days: 3
1 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All (4277) | Routes (114) | Areas (10) | Photos (11) | Comments (853) | Posts (1451) | Stars (1044) | Ratings (794)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Sky Mining (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts. The old anchor was left in place and will be removed in the next week or so.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Gift Rapped (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts. The old anchor was left in place and will be removed in the next week or so.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Smooth as Silk (5.10d PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: a #1 brassie?! Dude, talk about some brass! nice work!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: A fun route- worth the effort if you've done the other classics in the area and are looking for something a little off the beaten path. If the 4th pitch arete had better rock and the last pitch wasn't so run out on iffy rock, this thing would be a full-on must do.

Best approached from Solar Slab, imho- better than slogging up the BO descent and dealing with climbing up the junky gully to the starting platform. If you simul-climb Solar Slab, this is casually done in the same time as walking up a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sister of Pain (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added replaced the chain anchor of this route with mussy hooks and links to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks to this anchor to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA replaced the chain on this anchor with links and mussy hooks to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks and links to this anchor to reduce wear on the anchor and facilitate cleaning of the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Saddam's Mom (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tele-vision (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: This is not Group Therapy. That start of GT is not visible in this picture.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tele-vision (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The down climbing on the descent is barely 4th class- rappelling on this descent is not necessary at all. (The non-rappel descent is up and over a small rock formation from the rappel station- its usually well marked with cairns)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Fast Moving Train (5.11c/d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 23rd, 2014 the ASCA replaced all 5 protection bolts and the anchors of this route with ClimbTech glue-in Wave bolts and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Moments to Memories (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 23rd, 2014, the ASCA replaced all 4 protection bolts and anchor bolts on this route with ClimbTech glue-in Wave bolts and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Satellite Wall : Supernova (5.12)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: A quiet gem- well worth getting on if you're in the area.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Gift Rapped (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Thought this was quite good- forgot I had done it. If you have the moves dialed, it will feel pretty relaxed, but onsighting can be tricky. I think 5.11a is fair for this route, although its a good bit easier than the '5.11a' two routes to the right!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Saddam's Mom (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Interesting route- a hard (and reachy) crimp crux down low (getting to the 3rd bolt) and then a deceptive bouldery crux up higher with the bolt at your feet makes this thing feel pretty hard for the grade.

Cool holds and decent rock quality make me want to get new bolts on this thing so I'd feel safe taking the whip at the cruxes!


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : The Corrosion Cave : Across the Universe (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: fun, but a pain to clean. especially if none of your partners want to do it, so you have to do it twice!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall
By: John Wilder When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: This cliff has just seen a complete refit of its hardware. Every sport route at the cliff has been updated with Stainless Glue-in Climb Tech Wave bolts with links and mussys at all anchors. Huge thanks to the ASCA for donating all of the bolts and equipment that made this project possible. Also many thanks to those who donated their time and energy to coming out and assisting with this huge project.

If you come out to this cliff and enjoy the routes, please consider making a donation to the co... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor
By: John Wilder When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: There are two routes between the Cel and Bonaire. They are currently named L2 and L3 and can be found in the route list on this page.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet : Sea of Troubles (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: I've been on it since and it has cleaned up. The chain is there to prevent the draw from crossloading over an edge and to make the crux bolt easier to clip. The bolt isnt lower due to placement options, if i recall correctly. Definitely not an ideal solution, but it works well enough.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Cool looking line- looks like the boys that put up Celtic Cracks used the first pitch of Jet Stream to access their route as well. I dig that wall- such a great wall for inspiring lines that look like they'll protect well naturally and without bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Raid (5.9+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Only if you skip the 3 or 4 good nut placements on the way, including the one a bit below your feet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Hey! I know that guy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Easily the best 5.10 sport pitch in Red Rock. Didn't see any glue mess, all the holds were quite good (except maybe one or two)- both in quality and incut. 30m of pure face climbing bliss. Well worth doing and a great warm-up for the harder stuff at Stratocaster.


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