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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 55 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 227
Total Points: 2,316
Last Year: 487
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 4410 | Routes 123 | Areas 11 | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 866 | Posts 1518 | Stars 1073 | Ratings 808
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: An absolute gem of a cliff. While the routes are short, all of them are interesting and none are ladders. Well worth a couple of hours to clear the entire cliff! Thanks for the addition, Dan!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Shipwreck : Sunken Treasure (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Really fun, but stout and a #6 HB offset is mandatory to protect the upper crux on this (you would hit the ground if you blew it above the nut and this piece pulled). The #6 is bomber, though- a regular nut may pop out.

Good fun, definitely a worth jaunt for the solid 5.10 trad leader.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Shipwreck : Burial At Sea (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Good. Hard low crux, would recommend stick clipping the second bolt on this one- the first might not keep you off the deck if you blow the lower crux. Super fun, though!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Shipwreck : Walk The Plank (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: A good route- probably will settle at 5.9 once the crispies go away. Took a single rack to #2 camalot and felt pretty happy with it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Rock Candy (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: quite good climbing, but probably better as a TR for most who would visit the area. the first bolt is WAY off to the right of the natural line, so far that i probably would gun for the 2nd bolt, but be in groundfall terrain pretty quick.

i watched a dude deck (twice!) on this route trying to get to the first bolt. no thanks.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: rusty bolts, hollow rock, and hard moves make this less than appealing for me. if the rock was better and the bolts were better, maybe, but as it is, the spook factor is high enough not to warrant a return trip.

also, the guide mentions something about a jug haul- as it is, i didnt see any on the route, the biggest edges were about a pad deep, but most were less.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Presents of Mind (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: On Wednesday, February 26th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : The Grinch (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: On Wednesday, February 26th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: word on the street is this route is missing its last protection bolt- which, if true, would obviously need to be replaced. i've not verified this, but i would suggest caution when climbing this until someone who does bolt work gets out there to have a look.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Pillar Talk (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: An okay route. Pretty blue collar 5.7, imho. Worth doing if for no other reason than to link with Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Unknown Arete (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: A bit spicy in the middle- climb lightly due to the rock quality. If you started on the 5.5 to the right, then traversed in, this section would be avoided. That said, the start (just left of the arete) is awesome.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Chocolate Tranquility Fount... (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: A true gem- easily the best single pitch of 5.7 i've done lately. Well worth the effort! Nice find.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Werewolves of London (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: imho, if Crime of the Century is 11c, i'd have a hard time calling this the same. This felt quite a bit easier, although if you're shorter, that step across might feel really hard. My 5'0" partner had to work much harder to get into the crack than I did. Maybe split the difference and call it 11b?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : When the Cat's Away (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Storm Rising (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Sky Mining (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Gift Rapped (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Smooth as Silk (5.10d PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: a #1 brassie?! Dude, talk about some brass! nice work!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: A fun route- worth the effort if you've done the other classics in the area and are looking for something a little off the beaten path. If the 4th pitch arete had better rock and the last pitch wasn't so run out on iffy rock, this thing would be a full-on must do.

Best approached from Solar Slab, imho- better than slogging up the BO descent and dealing with climbing up the junky gully to the starting platform. If you simul-climb Solar Slab, this is casually done in the same time as walking up a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sister of Pain (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added replaced the chain anchor of this route with mussy hooks and links to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks to this anchor to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA replaced the chain on this anchor with links and mussy hooks to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks and links to this anchor to reduce wear on the anchor and facilitate cleaning of the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Saddam's Mom (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


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