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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 232
Total Points: 2,367
Last Year: 211
Last 30 Days: 23
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 4658 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 897 | Posts 1639 | Stars 1120 | Ratings 854
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: 2 days ago

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Comments: A brilliant route- perfectly protected, amazing movement, probably one of the best 5.11s i've done almost anywhere. In the Gorge, I think the only reason it doesn't get 5 stars is because its probably the shortest 5.11 as well, having 'only' 6 bolts...

I stick clipped the first bolt and would highly recommend anyone under 6' do the same (or use some gear)- the starting holds are very greasy and a fall while trying to clip the first bolt would not end well.

Well worth the hike for sure.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Grindrite (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Superb pitch- technical, long, sustained climbing with a very distinct crux right in the middle.

Best 5.11 in the Gorge? Well, if you're my height, its a contender for sure, but for those who are vertically challenged, I'd say its frustratingly difficult.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Lava Haul (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: 4 days ago

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Comments: One of the best sport pitches of 5.10 I've done anywhere. Really good and really glad I brought extra draws (and still had to backclean a couple bolts) and a 70m line.

On the grade side, the budding 5.10 leader will likely struggle on this one, so 5.10a seems light to me. It had my attention for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the last bolt- I debated a bit on the bolt placement there, as the climbing looked funky and it was hard to tell exactly which direction the climb came in from. I ultimately decided after doing the moves that you trend to the right before the last bolt and placed the bolt at a stance to accommodate people of any height. I did notice that there was a stance left of there that people might climb into, but ultimately decided that was off route based off the location of the original bolt o... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Chasm : Into the Light (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 17, 2015

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Comments: This thing is still super crispy, be really careful while climbing it. The falls are safe, though, so hopefully over time it will clean up. Might find its way into 5.11 over time, though...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: The black mark near the upper bit of chalk is the shoe rubber from where the old start hold used to be.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Virgil and Beatrice (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: really good, but will almost certainly be a 5.10 when it finishes shedding.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Celestial Spheres (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: super fun. one of the best on the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : One Hundred Cantos (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: really really good route on good rock. The three 5.10s on this wall are all pretty great (and all feel about the same grade).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Three Mouths, Three Faces (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: If there was a 5.9 way up this, I didnt find it. I did, however, take two huge whips thanks to giant holds breaking off. 5.10 something, imho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Dis (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: be really careful on the upper part of this route- crispy holds and that corner lurking underneath you make this one pretty exciting.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Environmental Terrorist (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: If you want to keep from decking on this one, make sure to belay from the upper ledge, not the ground. if you fell on the initial slab (which is possible- its pretty insecure), you'd definitely ground out if your belayer is on the ground.

i found this to be a pretty unnerving climb- solid 5.10 climbing above ledges for the first 4 bolts. Definitely be solid at the grade on this one, imho.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Sendero Luminoso (5.10b R)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Pretty amazing that such a wild and aesthetic feature has a 5.10 running right up it- and a great climb at that.

I also noticed the old clips were broken (i think this was done intentionally so people would use the new mussys instead of the old ones)- but damn if they weren't sharp and hanging down near the rope when threaded through the new mussys. I've noticed this is something common in the gorge when those types of clips are replaced with mussys and to be honest, I'd really like to see a b... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall
By: John Wilder When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, the best way to get to this wall is to go to Civ, then go up the gully with the three tens in it and out the top. Cut across about level with that for a hundred yards or so to Dante's Wall. The Chasm is a good landmark to keep you headed in the right direction.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Inferno (5.12a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Cruxin! Super fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Divine Comedy (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Super fun, well worth doing. Really good rock for such a young route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Inferno (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Super fun climb, thanks to Mike for finding and bolting it. Pretty thin, similar in effort to other short 12a's in the park, imho.

That said, if you're too short to make one of the spans I made, it would add at least 3 moves and a much harder clip to the route, for what it's worth. Description is accurate, and if you're at your limit, stick clip the first two for safety, the second bolt is the hardest clip,imho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Pitch one is not correct- it starts further up the gully than marked in this photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Olive Oil is actually mis-marked here- you can't see the route from the trailhead. Rose Tower proper is partially visible underneath the 'Jackrabbit Buttress' text. Olive Oil climbs the southeastern aspect of Rose Tower and is thus not visible at all from the trailhead.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Love Stinks (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Did this with an old 70m today and it barely made it ledge to ledge, no way could we have belayed from the ground. A fresh 70m should be fine, but probably best to belay from the ledge (single belay bolt) if your rope is old.

That said, mega fun pitch. Well worth doing!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hammered (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route for sure. I'd recommend using a regular draw on the first bolt off the ledge, then back clean the second draw after clipping the 3rd to reduce drag. Done this way, you don't risk a ledge fall if you blow the first roof.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hungover (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: What a great pitch, three distinct cruxes provide a good challenge for the 5.11 leader. Moving past the first roof is the easiest of them, imho. The sting in the tail going for the chains was my favorite part, no free ride to the chains on this one!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Finally did this again over the weekend- super fun. With a 70m, we did this in 7 pitches to the terrace on Solar Slab, and could have done it in 6 if we had linked the first two pitches. Single rack to a #4 with doubles in green and purple camalots and a set of nuts was just right if you're comfortable at the grade.

The route still needs more traffic to clean up the 5.7/5.8 pitches, so do tread lightly, but otherwise it's just as fun as I remember it being!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: I'd definitely take a #5 C4 for this route- it was nice for the belay and certainly nice for the last pitch- especially if you're breaking into the grade.

Really good, no harder than 5.9, imho- the crux is basically a stemming problem with really good feet. Think three dimensionally on this one and you'll be fine- try to thug through this and you'll struggle for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Monkey Bar Boulder : Classic Monkey (V6)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Never liked the start of this thing- if you stand start off the big sidepull jug its a fun, yet challenging v5ish thing. This also avoids the subterranean groveling.


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