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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 227
Total Points: 2,315
Last Year: 502
Last 30 Days: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 4408 | Routes 123 | Areas 11 | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 865 | Posts 1517 | Stars 1073 | Ratings 808
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: You bust left out onto the face and up to the anchor- you leave the corner immediately as the 5.12 section starts. That pitch was probably my least favorite on the climb- I hear the .11d variation start is much better.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Hood : South Central : Bloodline (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: I'd say no harder than 12b, the bottom crux involves repositioning your hand in the funky pocket and a high undercling. if your feet are in the right spot, this isn't too bad, and then it's just a couple more moves to the jug. Much more technical than powerful, I'd say. If you tried to power through this, I'd be willing to bet this would feel much harder than 12b.

Well worth doing, you're on top rope for the crux (stick clip the first bolt, as it'd be a really hard clip), and the climbing abo... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Just Basking (5.11b PG13)
By: John Wilder When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Cleaned this route on TR- thought the direct finish that avoids stepping right onto the arete was .12a/b- very hard and desperate on really bad holds. Safe, though. Probably would feel easier if its colder.

That said, the obvious route steps right up high and finishes up the arete to avoid the 4 move v4 boulder problem finish. Good fun regardlesss.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : ... : Ish-ke-bah (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: Kind of contrived with a crappy finish. The anchors should be 4 feet left of where they are. Not a fan.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: I remember looking at this thing on the FA wondering if it would go at a decent grade or if it would be a total scare-fest (hence the screamer on the first piece). Turns out it's super mellow and provides a nice finish to the climb.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: This is one of my favorite photos on this site. Happy rock climber!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Oh man, that pitch....spooky! Bolts look new, which is nice- they were old scary studs when I did it a few years back.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Tales from the Gripped (5.11b) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Sketchball, dude! I'd be wanting some brand new bolts under me for those moves!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: John Wilder When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: James- unless you're a rare climber indeed, I'd say it's highly likely you own climbing gear made in China. There are standards, of course, as they cannot sell kit that isn't certified.

In particular, mussys are made of steel with a proven track record in the desert. If they weren't a good option, those of us who develop wouldn't use them. If you're that scared of them, use your own kit on the bolts and then walk off.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : The Iron Chef (5.7 A3+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: NOPE.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Hidden Corridor : Walking on a Dream (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: fwiw, this route happens to fall in an exclusion zone in Red Rock, in which bolting is prohibited due to its proximity to historical artifacts (quarry equipment).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Steep Thrills (5.12a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: Nope, this is Steep Thrills. The climb to the left is Gimme Back My Bullets.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Senior Moment (5.5)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: You can rap Sleeper with a single 70m line if you dont want to drag a second rope out there.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Pillar Talk (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: Physical in nature, imho, a whole body workout. Wide stuff is usually the quintessential blue collar experience.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Yes. The route goes left around that roof in the photo. The 'alternate route' shown is close to the proper route (the lower part is a bit right of the route as its normally climbed).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: knowing Tom and his crew- not photoshopped. they're strong enough and fun enough to have done this just for laughs.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: That feature should have slings on it. It's been part of the established raps in the gully for at least 12 years.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Conundrum Crag : Mr. Puppy (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: pretty sure Mike Bond bolted this and rated it 5.11a. not 100% on that, though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Shipwreck
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: A fun little crag- probably a good warm-up for the Fixx Cliff.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Amusement Park
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: An absolute gem of a cliff. While the routes are short, all of them are interesting and none are ladders. Well worth a couple of hours to clear the entire cliff! Thanks for the addition, Dan!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Shipwreck : Sunken Treasure (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Really fun, but stout and a #6 HB offset is mandatory to protect the upper crux on this (you would hit the ground if you blew it above the nut and this piece pulled). The #6 is bomber, though- a regular nut may pop out.

Good fun, definitely a worth jaunt for the solid 5.10 trad leader.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Shipwreck : Burial At Sea (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Good. Hard low crux, would recommend stick clipping the second bolt on this one- the first might not keep you off the deck if you blow the lower crux. Super fun, though!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Shipwreck : Walk The Plank (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: A good route- probably will settle at 5.9 once the crispies go away. Took a single rack to #2 camalot and felt pretty happy with it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Rock Candy (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: quite good climbing, but probably better as a TR for most who would visit the area. the first bolt is WAY off to the right of the natural line, so far that i probably would gun for the 2nd bolt, but be in groundfall terrain pretty quick.

i watched a dude deck (twice!) on this route trying to get to the first bolt. no thanks.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: rusty bolts, hollow rock, and hard moves make this less than appealing for me. if the rock was better and the bolts were better, maybe, but as it is, the spook factor is high enough not to warrant a return trip.

also, the guide mentions something about a jug haul- as it is, i didnt see any on the route, the biggest edges were about a pad deep, but most were less.


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