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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact John Wilder


Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,198
Last Year: 548
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All (4279) | Routes (114) | Areas (10) | Photos (11) | Comments (853) | Posts (1453) | Stars (1044) | Ratings (794)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: rusty bolts, hollow rock, and hard moves make this less than appealing for me. if the rock was better and the bolts were better, maybe, but as it is, the spook factor is high enough not to warrant a return trip.

also, the guide mentions something about a jug haul- as it is, i didnt see any on the route, the biggest edges were about a pad deep, but most were less.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Presents of Mind (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: On Wednesday, February 26th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : The Grinch (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: On Wednesday, February 26th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: word on the street is this route is missing its last protection bolt- which, if true, would obviously need to be replaced. i've not verified this, but i would suggest caution when climbing this until someone who does bolt work gets out there to have a look.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Pillar Talk (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: An okay route. Pretty blue collar 5.7, imho. Worth doing if for no other reason than to link with Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Unknown Arete (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: A bit spicy in the middle- climb lightly due to the rock quality. If you started on the 5.5 to the right, then traversed in, this section would be avoided. That said, the start (just left of the arete) is awesome.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Chocolate Tranquility Fount... (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: A true gem- easily the best single pitch of 5.7 i've done lately. Well worth the effort! Nice find.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Werewolves of London (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: imho, if Crime of the Century is 11c, i'd have a hard time calling this the same. This felt quite a bit easier, although if you're shorter, that step across might feel really hard. My 5'0" partner had to work much harder to get into the crack than I did. Maybe split the difference and call it 11b?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : When the Cat's Away (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts. The old anchor was left in place and will be removed in the next week or so.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Storm Rising (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts. The old anchor was left in place and will be removed in the next week or so.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Sky Mining (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts. The old anchor was left in place and will be removed in the next week or so.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Gift Rapped (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts. The old anchor was left in place and will be removed in the next week or so.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Smooth as Silk (5.10d PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: a #1 brassie?! Dude, talk about some brass! nice work!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: A fun route- worth the effort if you've done the other classics in the area and are looking for something a little off the beaten path. If the 4th pitch arete had better rock and the last pitch wasn't so run out on iffy rock, this thing would be a full-on must do.

Best approached from Solar Slab, imho- better than slogging up the BO descent and dealing with climbing up the junky gully to the starting platform. If you simul-climb Solar Slab, this is casually done in the same time as walking up a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sister of Pain (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added replaced the chain anchor of this route with mussy hooks and links to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks to this anchor to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA replaced the chain on this anchor with links and mussy hooks to facilitate cleaning and lowering.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks and links to this anchor to reduce wear on the anchor and facilitate cleaning of the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Saddam's Mom (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: On Friday, January 24th 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tele-vision (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: This is not Group Therapy. That start of GT is not visible in this picture.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tele-vision (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: The down climbing on the descent is barely 4th class- rappelling on this descent is not necessary at all. (The non-rappel descent is up and over a small rock formation from the rappel station- its usually well marked with cairns)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Fast Moving Train (5.11c/d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 23rd, 2014 the ASCA replaced all 5 protection bolts and the anchors of this route with ClimbTech glue-in Wave bolts and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Moments to Memories (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: On Jan 23rd, 2014, the ASCA replaced all 4 protection bolts and anchor bolts on this route with ClimbTech glue-in Wave bolts and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Satellite Wall : Supernova (5.12)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: A quiet gem- well worth getting on if you're in the area.


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