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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 4753 | Routes 124 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 908 | Posts 1706 | Stars 1127 | Ratings 861
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an ...

This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an amazing climb well worth the hike!

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Fox (5.10+)

Feb 8, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : Mous-Ka-Tears (WI4- PG13) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: NOPE.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: The route actually goes up the left side of the photo- it climbs the crack just out of frame. The route then jogs right at the upper center of the photo and then heads up and right to the cracks above.

The corner on the right is a variation and clocks in at around 5.8/5.9.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Actually, this is a variation to Solar Slab and clocks in around 5.8/5.9. The route proper is about 10' to the left in an easy crack on the face.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Deep Space (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the old piton-as memory serves, there are actually several fixed pins on the route- the one in question is above the crux chimney, but below more hard climbing (also 5.9), and it's certainly likely that if whomever placed it got that far, they could have quite possibly summited as the spooky climbing is behind you at that point, although the real route finding begins not far above that piton.

Below the piton there are, if i recall correctly, enough drilled angles to get down from the ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Lone Star (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: Texas finishes at the bolted belay at the top of pitch 12 of Lone Star (on the big ramp above the crux pitch of Lone Star)

This is, imho, why the link up is so appealing. You avoid the scary crux (on terrible rock) of lone star in favor of the crux of Texas which looks vastly more appealing and the rock looks bulletproof.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Caustic Cock (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Got on the route post-break yesterday and it's definitely harder, although I don't think it's 5.11c for me. It might be for shorter folks.

Two significant holds broke this season after someone climbed it after a rain-

1) the small crimp before the clipping jug at the last pro bolt is now gone, forcing a pretty big move to the jug. If you're taller, a kneebar solves the problem, if you're shorter, though, you'll likely have to do a pretty big toss off the insecure side pull below. Saw lots of... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Dude, when you get old, your skin gets thin and easily damaged. Jorge is just protecting his skin- he's been wearing tape on climbs for ages now. He certainly doesn't need it for lack of skill.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Red Storm Rising (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: @Justin- nope, it's always been wicked hard for the grade. it's a fairly well known sandbag for those who have actually been out to the Holiday wall.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : What's Its Face (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Not a good route, and with the terrible belay stance, one wonders why it was bolted at all.

The second bolt is literally underneath the jug you really want to use- I found it near impossible to not rest my palm on the hanger while clipping. Not sure how solid the rock is at owens, but i'd never drill a bolt that shallow in sandstone.

The last bolt is...really far to the right, and while you want to clip it, it may be better not to? I'm not sure. Frankly, the anchor should probably be where the... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Lalaland (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Definitely do not need any gear on this one- you can easily stick clip the second bolt if the first is too low for your liking.

IMHO, this route is harder than its neighbor, but just as good. Pretty amazing chunk of rock to produce two really long, amazing lines like that.

Word to the wise- extend the 2nd and 3rd draws after the roof to reduce drag. I used 24" runners and was pretty happy overall. A longish draw on the first bolt over the roof helps too.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : From Chocolate to Morphine (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: A fine route- very fun in general, and very doable for a flash/onsight attempt, imho.

Couple of notes in general:

1) Anchor condition- if you put your own draws on this thing, make sure you do not clip them into the hangers- there are several stud bolts sticking out near the chains that will rub on your draws. I ended up using the mussys against my preference, since it was the only safe way to run a TR through the existing anchor setup. This seems to be a common theme at Owens- many anchors I... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : From Chocolate to Morphine (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: The hanger on the 7th bolt has been replaced by a kind soul. For those climbing the route from here on out, please extend the draw you place on this bolt, as I suspect the reason it went missing is due to counter-clockwise drag over the roof by short draws.

Also, there are a couple stray studs sticking out at the anchor that can rub on your draws if you use your own kit. Set up your anchor with caution.

For those doing the anchor work in the area- a little keychain hacksaw and some epoxy patc... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: A brilliant route- perfectly protected, amazing movement, probably one of the best 5.11s i've done almost anywhere. In the Gorge, I think the only reason it doesn't get 5 stars is because its probably the shortest 5.11 as well, having 'only' 6 bolts...

I stick clipped the first bolt and would highly recommend anyone under 6' do the same (or use some gear)- the starting holds are very greasy and a fall while trying to clip the first bolt would not end well.

Well worth the hike for sure.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Grindrite (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Superb pitch- technical, long, sustained climbing with a very distinct crux right in the middle.

Best 5.11 in the Gorge? Well, if you're my height, its a contender for sure, but for those who are vertically challenged, I'd say its frustratingly difficult.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Lava Haul (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: One of the best sport pitches of 5.10 I've done anywhere. Really good and really glad I brought extra draws (and still had to backclean a couple bolts) and a 70m line.

On the grade side, the budding 5.10 leader will likely struggle on this one, so 5.10a seems light to me. It had my attention for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the last bolt- I debated a bit on the bolt placement there, as the climbing looked funky and it was hard to tell exactly which direction the climb came in from. I ultimately decided after doing the moves that you trend to the right before the last bolt and placed the bolt at a stance to accommodate people of any height. I did notice that there was a stance left of there that people might climb into, but ultimately decided that was off route based off the location of the original bolt o... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Chasm : Into the Light (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 17, 2015

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Comments: This thing is still super crispy, be really careful while climbing it. The falls are safe, though, so hopefully over time it will clean up. Might find its way into 5.11 over time, though...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : The Pearl : The Pearl (V4) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: The black mark near the upper bit of chalk is the shoe rubber from where the old start hold used to be.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Virgil and Beatrice (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: really good, but will almost certainly be a 5.10 when it finishes shedding.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Celestial Spheres (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: super fun. one of the best on the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : One Hundred Cantos (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: really really good route on good rock. The three 5.10s on this wall are all pretty great (and all feel about the same grade).


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Three Mouths, Three Faces (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: If there was a 5.9 way up this, I didnt find it. I did, however, take two huge whips thanks to giant holds breaking off. 5.10 something, imho.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Dis (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: be really careful on the upper part of this route- crispy holds and that corner lurking underneath you make this one pretty exciting.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Environmental Terrorist (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: If you want to keep from decking on this one, make sure to belay from the upper ledge, not the ground. if you fell on the initial slab (which is possible- its pretty insecure), you'd definitely ground out if your belayer is on the ground.

i found this to be a pretty unnerving climb- solid 5.10 climbing above ledges for the first 4 bolts. Definitely be solid at the grade on this one, imho.


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