Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Mar 19, 2013
Last Visit: Mar 22, 2014
Contact John Tex


Point Rank: # 11,260
Total Points: 15
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has John Tex been climbing?










Contributions


All (68) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (15) | Posts (2) | Stars (27) | Ratings (24)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: John Tex When: Mar 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: How much snow is there in March, if any at all?


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Volobee (aka Jolobee) (5.11a/b PG13)
By: John Tex When: Mar 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I found this route horribly contrived. It has 3 out of 3 stars in the guidebook, but I must disagree. This route needs to tape the holds to make it 11a.
You can grab the right arÍte at any given time and still be in the bolt line on the start to cruise the first few bolts. Then when you go out left you can use an entire crack system.
To only use the face, while maybe fun, seems very forced. When I tried to use only the face after leading it and coming down disappointed and wondering how this th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Here Today Gone Tomorrow (5.9)
By: John Tex When: Feb 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Can someone explain something to me? I climbed the route titled HTGT in the Haas guidebook, and it calls it a nine, or an 11 if you stick to the arÍte. Also the first bolt is 30 feet up, bring a cam, or clip a bolt for another nearby route. It is a total of 5 bolts. MP says 10... Also, I flashed Bullet the Brown Cloud and the Flying Carrs route, 11b and a respectively, and not only couldn't finish the 11 variation, but could not even find the 9 route! Left of the arÍte there is nothing, so in my... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Learning to Crawl (5.10a/b)
By: John Tex When: Jul 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Felt this was a 10a and NQB was 10c, although slab is not my style, and I felt the slab was much more difficult on NQB, hence the rating. Really fun route, but watch out for loose holds in the roof. I think all the flakes look a little sketchy, and a few are definitely loose and need to be knocked down. I was matched on one that had to weigh at minimum 25 pounds and was the best option in the roof before I noticed the faint X on it. I promptly moved around to the right. Be careful on this, and l... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: John Tex When: May 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I meant High Wire in general as an outdoor gym, not the whole canyon, but as I said, I enjoy having a few areas like this where I can simply enjoy a climb. Rereading my comment, I think I came off a bit pissed. That wasn't my intentions, I just don't have any problem with bolted cracks at a mainly sport area. You can always do it on gear. But that is just an opinion, and as we all know, especially as climbers, opinions vary. Particularly on this issue. Anyways, enjoy whether on gear or not.

If... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Right Side : Pervade (5.11a)
By: John Tex When: May 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Go direct at the finish! Awesome move to top off a really fun climb. Harder than the other 10s at High Wire IMO but also a different style of climbing. Really fun!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Passing Lane (5.9)
By: John Tex When: May 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Didn't feel runout to me. I traversed right at the third bolt and came up to the fourth bolt from the left like the newest guide says. Didn't seem runout to me, nor did it seem to have a terrible ledge fall on it. You can also go a little right at the third bolt, which I have done also, and it seems to be just a little more difficult but not by much. The final bolt, I believe, is out to the left and may seem at first like it is for another route, but there were some climbers to the route on the ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: John Tex When: May 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The direct start was harder than any move on Crackerjack, which MP has at a 9. The variation still seemed a little harder than any move I've done on a 7, and for all those people complaining about bolts, don't use them! This whole area has bolts on it, so you are not really taking away from the aesthetic value. It was probably bolted so everyone could enjoy it, not just the elitist trad climbers. I myself am a trad climber, and it drives me crazy when people get uptight about a bolted crack at C... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : The Consideration (V4)
By: John Tex When: May 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe I'm crazy, but I have not found any beta for this route that matches my own. I do not think I was on a different problem ,because I can see an undercling that I used in the picture. I move out to the very deep pocket/jug and make a fairly big move to the good hold. I then bring my left hand into the undercling which in the route photo is about 8 inches up and right from his left hand without hardly any chalk on it. It just looks like a deep shadow and is a pretty good hold. I then go all t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Alcove East Overhang (V3)
By: John Tex When: May 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Some of the holds that you grab on the top out seem strong but not extremely strong. On a bad day, you might be able to have a reasonably bad fall. All hail the heel hook.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Upper Satellite Boulders : Hobo (V6)
By: John Tex When: May 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I personally didn't use the rail as I feel it is more fun without it, but it is most definitely part of the rock. The first move is pretty tough for shorter people. I was with someone who is about 5'6" and couldn't get the move neither with or without the rail, and he climbs much harder than me. Regardless of whether you use the rail or not, I still feel the crux is later on, either on the topout or right before it. Your foot might pop 4 out of 5 times trying to get it on the wall to make the fi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: John Tex When: Apr 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Just did it for the first time today. Agree with the crux at the second pitch, you just have to work your feet as with almost all of the other slabby Flatirons. I found the descent through the hole about 60 feet down the north arete that I had just climbed up. I thought it was an enjoyable little downclimb. However, behind the Flatiron was covered in snow, and it took me an hour of bushwhacking (and much slipping, sliding, and downcimbing wet rock) on absolutely no trail to get back to the Royal... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Splash (5.7)
By: John Tex When: Mar 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: 3rd route from the right now, the second being Infestation (5.9) and Monte Carlo (5.6). Three bolts at the anchors as Greg said that I can confirm worked very well and can be used for a toprope safely.

5 bolts on the way to the anchors with a bit of a runout between the second and the third. Done without a rack pretty safely for a confident climber as the climbing between the runout is easy, much like Chouette to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Chouette (5.6)
By: John Tex When: Mar 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Did it today with 4 bolts and a 3 bolt anchor. Don't think it's necessary to use all three as they all seemed sturdy to me. Led without any gear but quickdraws and had about a 25 foot runout between the second and third bolt. Climbing between the second and third was some of the easier climbing on the route.

Had someone toprope after me and no problem with the anchors. Definitely had a 3rd bolt added to the anchors so there shouldn't be any more fuss about them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Infestation (5.9)
By: John Tex When: Mar 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There is some really nice holds at the first clip with one of the harder moves of the route getting to them. If you just stem and find the good feet, it shouldn't be a problem without some additional gear. There is another crimpy crux move later on that is well protected but definitely goes along with the rating in my opinion.

One of the better protected routes on the crag for someone without a trad rack. If you can make the first bolt, then the rest of it is doable without a rack. Don't think... more >>