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Member Since: Jul 20, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact John Steiger


Point Rank: # 454
Total Points: 1,332
Last Year: 142
Last 30 Days: 33
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Steiger been climbing?










Contributions


All 699 | Routes 99 | Areas 3 | Photos 40 | Page Improvements | Comments 97 | Posts 9 | Stars 302 | Ratings 149
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vector Madness (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: 4 days ago

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Comments: With Garyís permission, the pin has been replaced with a bolt that makes the line a bit more direct. Itís a really good climb in any event, if you put aside the small amount of choss at the start. (For those that have done the climb, the pin came out with three blows -- yikes.) Chains on top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vertical Component (5.10b)
By: John Steiger When: 4 days ago

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Comments: A new bolt, added to Vector Madness (placed with Garyís permission), can be used to reach the overhanging dihedral rather than the sketchy piece mentioned by Alec. Chains on top. Great position in the dihedral, well worth doing, and freshly brushed as of this writing Ė get on it before the lichen grows back!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall
By: John Steiger When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: I'm fairly sure the buttonheads on Vertical/Vector are 5/16 inch, but in any event they appear to be in good shape, albeit old. A new bolt and chains have been installed on top; one rap with a 70 meter rope can get you down from there. The lower anchors are still ratty slings, for now. A good trail leads to the base; 10 minutes at most to get there from Dead Snag.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Jeesh, harder than cleaning lines...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Steve's Arete (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Wasn't this climb on the area's first published guidebook? I know that wasn't anything near the artistic work we have nowadays, but it must count for something.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: How about this for a start. mountainproject.com/v/10588539...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Red Gorilla (5.12a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Okay Landon, I give. I went back to the route today and you were right. I moved a bolt and added another one. Almost protected as well as a climbing gym route now.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Mad Calf Disease (5.11b/c)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: The description has been changed so that most of the dirty approach pitch mentioned by Tim can be avoided.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Old Habits Die Hard (5.10b)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the input Sam. Iíve changed the beta to recommend a new approach pitch to the crux dihedral that should minimize the lateral pull potential mentioned in your post. The potential can be completely eliminated by using an oppositional piece or two at the start of the dihedral if necessary.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Rappel information updated to account for several sets of recently added chain anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: It's the start to the second pitch of Mr. Bad Luck.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Rodeo Girls in Bondage (5.9+ R)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: For the first pitch, I suspect it's better to do the chimney/flakes past the two belay pins and up the next 40 feet or so, past the next two pins, to a much better ledge with a tree (though using long runners throughout probably necessary). The two belay pins are dubious, but can be backed up if there's too much rope drag. Go to the top; fine adventure for the grit-in-the-eye climber.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Fatmando (5.11c/d)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: As I gather from EFRís post, this was a significantly different climb than it is as of a week or so ago. Now, IMO, solidly three stars, two cruxes (the second slightly harder and a bit more spooky), and approaching 12a to flash, I suspect.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Suggest you author and administrator types describe the direct start/extended version as the line of Triangulate and the trad finish as the variation. Thatís the line us visitors are attracted to and, despite some kitty litter up high, its length (35m), position, and warm-up capability warrant attention (whereas the trad finish looks ugly and not worthwhile Ė canít believe Iím saying that). Stars and rating for the new line.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: John Steiger When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Cool to see this is getting some traffic. Re the direct start, from my perspective, I think you should feel free to ignore the old bolt placements (now holes) and engineer it with new bolts to maximize the free climbing experience; those old bolts were in a less than ideal location. I'm fairly sure DB won't mind. Keep it up Geir.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the response. From the description, Doubt sounds to be one of the best elite-level pitches in Arizona, if not the Southwest. Not to detract from the tremendous accomplishment in redpointing this line, and acknowledging Iím a grumpy old wash-out, Iím concerned that some may champion Doubt as evidence that chipping is acceptable in southern Arizona. Particularly now that the worldís top standard is 5.15c (9b+), with 5.14d (9a) being recently on-sighted, itís hard to justify in my min... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Call me dense, but I can't figure out who was doing the atoning, although I guess it was for the chipping. Alex, by the way, do you think that route may have gone without RR's lapse to the dark side? Gorgeous wall, and 14a at the Reef! Wild.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Red Gorilla (5.12a)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Mmm, I've whipped both places and didn't suffer the consequences suggested in the previous post, but I'll do a little re-engineering if a consensus develops.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Creaking Plank (5.9)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Thereís a large horn to sling for the belay for those concerned about it, and like the description says, cams or nuts can protect the moves to the first bolt if really worried. No more bolts are warranted, IMO.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Major Tom (5.10c)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: You might have a point about belaying from the tree, Landon. So now there is a stance about 20 feet below and slightly left of the arÍte, marked with a new bolt (supplement with a hand-size cam and/or sling around a horn); that should eliminate the concern expressed in the first part of your post. As to the other concerns, I repeated the route again and just donít agree. The only way youíd catch an ankle on the ledge before the 4th bolt is if the leader botches the cam placement or... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Rear-View Mirrors (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: With SRís permission, this route has been re-engineered, bumping it up to two stars, maybe even three for some, and making it a bona fide sport route (only draws needed). Three new bolts were added, two before the original bolts and one after, making staying on the face and out of the broken corner more viable Ė although maintaining discipline and staying on the face ups the grade a letter or two. One of the fixed pins remains for those die-hards who want to experience the original line, but y... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Le Rap Et Tap (5.11b PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: The anchors atop Le Rap (and its neighbors) are now bolts with chains, suitable for lowering. Also, a variation of sorts has been added that avoids the fixed pin. At the break (that takes the big handsized cam described in tenesmus' original post), go right and up to a new bolt that protects moves back to the original line. It's probably a tad easier than the original line, but it avoids the big ledge mentioned by Spencer and seems to add a little more climbing. Still should carry a set of c... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Scimitar (5.11)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Hence the name, dude. For real terror, do Don't Look a Gift Block.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: We used the Venturi raps (3 raps with a single 70m down the Venturi shield to reach the PV stations). While pulling the rope on the second Venturi rap, the rope got brutally stuck in a perfect rope-eating crack above the end of the rappel. Call us unlucky or unskilled, but we also got the rope stuck on the last rap to the ground -- jeesh. Exceptional route in any event. PS, be prepared to chose an alternative line if the weather is stable; 5 parties were on the PV the day before we... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Over Easy (5.7)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: Once near the base area for Dead Snag, you can largely avoid the nasty talus and scree field under Over Easy by bearing right on a good trail and up toward the gully/wide chimney leading to the northwest face of Talk Buttress. This is also the approach to Direct North Ridge, Hyperbole, and Empty Rhetoric.


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