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Member Since: Jul 20, 2007
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact John Steiger

Point Rank: # 440
Total Points: 1,478
Last Year: 184
Last 30 Days: 23
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Steiger been climbing?










Contributions


All 761 | Routes 107 | Areas 3 | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 108 | Posts 6 | Stars 327 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Tear Garden : Cleanse, Fold, and Manipula... (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The post by e rock (no offense) is outdated and should be deleted. We found the oute safe, solid, and clean. Definitely go straight up/slightly right at last bolt to get the multiple-star 10a experience.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Tear Garden
By: John Steiger When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Tear Garden and the Penguin (which are essentially the same crag) are well worth the walk for an afternoon cragging. Centre Bullet and Greater Wrong are almost worth it by the themselves Ė they are as good as anything at Challenge, for example Ė and you wonít find any free standing pinnacles like the Penguin anywhere in main BCC. The area gets good afternoon shade (on August 1, by 1pm), and the approach is well cairned through successive talus fields (when in doubt go left) and generally free ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Penguin : The Penguin (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: BD, both are rusted quarter-inch buttonheads, first with about 1/4" of shaft showing when looking down on it (I suspect the rock fractured when it was pounded in, but it may be from a fall) and the second with an equally rusted homemade (or early Leeper?) hanger.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Penguin : The Emperor's March (5.11a/b)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Worth doing, and could rise to multiple stars with some aggressive cleaning, and maybe another bolt to start (who carries a 5" cam in BCC?). I might have cheated though, cuz I certainly didnít stay directly in the bolt line after standing on the sloping shelf; still hard.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Penguin : The Penguin (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Bolts (and fixed blade) still horrendous. I could figure out a way to back-up the pin (nut to right, small cam in pod to left) and last bolt (microcam to right), but not the first bolt Ė which is by far the worst. Donít fall on that bolt, or youíre spinning the chamber. Good climbing though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Penguin
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Really cool formation--not many folks have stood on top of this, I reckon. Admins: consider merging the Penguin routes with those on Tear Garden. Given the healthy approach, no one is just going to climb the Penguin, and the Penguin is essentially part of the same crag, connected at the base.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Brainless Conformants (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: As suggested in Boissalís write-up, we did Cause for Alarm and Brainless in one pitch, but it took some long runners and, if we hadnít done some backcleaning, would have required about 22 draws. Well worth the effort to get a good full-tower pitch. An 80 meter rope didnít make the ground though, so either two ropes or two rappels necessary to get down. Seems to have cleaned up well Ė about as solid as the white stuff at Hellgate gets. Iím goiní 3 stars, 10d for the whole enchilada.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Shelter from the Storm (5.12a)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Gotta say the first pitch is one of the best 5.11s in upper LCC (Medussa comes close, but this is better). The pitch is almost entirely in the dark stuff, which seems to be the best rock Hellgate has to offer. The higher of the two anchors needs a chain (18 inches should do it, plus a quick link) and a third bolt would be welcome. Like everyone else it seems, we did only the first pitch -- the second is in the poorer quality white rock, and even more intimidating than the first.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : Lucy in the Sky (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: The on-line CRSP Zone 2 guide gives this an alternative name, Noise Pollution. Anyone know the story?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rooting for the Lions (5.11+)
By: John Steiger When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Not football, Jon, just social commentary of sorts: Bring on the Christians went up the same day.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Sound of One Hand Thrashing (5.11c/d R)
By: John Steiger When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: Name changed, for reasons explained in the text. I understand that Rock and Ice will be publishing a piece by Geir sometime this coming spring that may illuminate the mystery of Coming to Grips and what Iím labeling as ďNamegate.Ē (And, um, sorry Bob K).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vector Madness (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: With Garyís permission, the pin has been replaced with a bolt that makes the line a bit more direct. Itís a really good climb in any event, if you put aside the small amount of choss at the start. (For those that have done the climb, the pin came out with three blows -- yikes.) Chains on top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vertical Component (5.10b)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: A new bolt, added to Vector Madness (placed with Garyís permission), can be used to reach the overhanging dihedral rather than the sketchy piece mentioned by Alec. Chains on top. Great position in the dihedral, well worth doing. Most loose flakes cleaned and face freshly brushed as of this writing Ė get on it before the lichen grows back!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall
By: John Steiger When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: I'm fairly sure the buttonheads on Vertical/Vector are 5/16 inch, but in any event they appear to be in good shape, albeit old. A new bolt and chains have been installed on top; one rap with a 70 meter rope can get you down from there. The lower anchors also have been replaced. A good trail leads to the base; 10 minutes at most to get there from Dead Snag.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Jeesh, harder than cleaning lines...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Steve's Arete (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Wasn't this climb on the area's first published guidebook? I know that wasn't anything near the artistic work we have nowadays, but it must count for something.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: How about this for a start. mountainproject.com/v/10588539...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Red Gorilla (5.12a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Okay Landon, I give. I went back to the route today and you were right. I moved a bolt and added another one. Almost protected as well as a climbing gym route now.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Mad Calf Disease (5.11b/c)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: The description has been changed so that most of the dirty approach pitch mentioned by Tim can be avoided.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Old Habits Die Hard (5.10b)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the input Sam. Iíve changed the beta to recommend a new approach pitch to the crux dihedral that should minimize the lateral pull potential mentioned in your post. The potential can be completely eliminated by using an oppositional piece or two at the start of the dihedral if necessary.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Rappel information updated to account for several sets of recently added chain anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: It's the start to the second pitch of Mr. Bad Luck.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Rodeo Girls in Bondage (5.9+ R)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: For the first pitch, I suspect it's better to do the chimney/flakes past the two belay pins and up the next 40 feet or so, past the next two pins, to a much better ledge with a tree (though using long runners throughout probably necessary). The two belay pins are dubious, but can be backed up if there's too much rope drag. Go to the top; fine adventure for the grit-in-the-eye climber.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Fatmando (5.11c/d)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: As I gather from EFRís post, this was a significantly different climb than it is as of a week or so ago. Now, IMO, solidly three stars, two cruxes (the second slightly harder and a bit more spooky), and approaching 12a to flash, I suspect.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Suggest you author and administrator types describe the direct start/extended version as the line of Triangulate and the trad finish as the variation. Thatís the line us visitors are attracted to and, despite some kitty litter up high, its length (35m), position, and warm-up capability warrant attention (whereas the trad finish looks ugly and not worthwhile Ė canít believe Iím saying that). Stars and rating for the new line.


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