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Member Since: Jul 20, 2007
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact John Steiger


Point Rank: # 476
Total Points: 1,192
Last Year: 159
Last 30 Days: 3
6 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (652) | Routes (92) | Areas (3) | Photos (28) | Comments (87) | Posts (3) | Stars (291) | Ratings (148)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Rodeo Girls in Bondage (5.9+ R)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: For the first pitch, I suspect it's better to do the chimney/flakes past the two belay pins and up the next 40 feet or so, past the next two pins, to a much better ledge with a tree (though using long runners throughout probably necessary). The two belay pins are dubious, but can be backed up if there's too much rope drag. Go to the top; fine adventure for the grit-in-the-eye climber.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Fatmando (5.11c/d)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: As I gather from EFR’s post, this was a significantly different climb than it is as of a week or so ago. Now, IMO, solidly three stars, two cruxes (the second slightly harder and a bit more spooky), and approaching 12a to flash, I suspect.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Suggest you author and administrator types describe the direct start/extended version as the line of Triangulate and the trad finish as the variation. That’s the line us visitors are attracted to and, despite some kitty litter up high, its length (35m), position, and warm-up capability warrant attention (whereas the trad finish looks ugly and not worthwhile – can’t believe I’m saying that). Stars and rating for the new line.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: John Steiger When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Cool to see this is getting some traffic. Re the direct start, from my perspective, I think you should feel free to ignore the old bolt placements (now holes) and engineer it with new bolts to maximize the free climbing experience; those old bolts were in a less than ideal location. I'm fairly sure DB won't mind. Keep it up Geir.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the response. From the description, Doubt sounds to be one of the best elite-level pitches in Arizona, if not the Southwest. Not to detract from the tremendous accomplishment in redpointing this line, and acknowledging I’m a grumpy old wash-out, I’m concerned that some may champion Doubt as evidence that chipping is acceptable in southern Arizona. Particularly now that the world’s top standard is 5.15c (9b+), with 5.14d (9a) being recently on-sighted, it’s hard to justify in my min... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Call me dense, but I can't figure out who was doing the atoning, although I guess it was for the chipping. Alex, by the way, do you think that route may have gone without RR's lapse to the dark side? Gorgeous wall, and 14a at the Reef! Wild.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Red Gorilla (5.12a)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Mmm, I've whipped both places and didn't suffer the consequences suggested in the previous post, but I'll do a little re-engineering if a consensus develops.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Creaking Plank (5.9)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: There’s a large horn to sling for the belay for those concerned about it, and like the description says, cams or nuts can protect the moves to the first bolt if really worried. No more bolts are warranted, IMO.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Major Tom (5.10c)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: You might have a point about belaying from the tree, Landon. So now there is a stance about 20 feet below and slightly left of the arête, marked with a new bolt (supplement with a hand-size cam and/or sling around a horn); that should eliminate the concern expressed in the first part of your post. As to the other concerns, I repeated the route again and just don’t agree. The only way you’d catch an ankle on the ledge before the 4th bolt is if the leader botches the cam placement or... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Rear-View Mirrors (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: With SR’s permission, this route has been re-engineered, bumping it up to two stars, maybe even three for some, and making it a bona fide sport route (only draws needed). Three new bolts were added, two before the original bolts and one after, making staying on the face and out of the broken corner more viable – although maintaining discipline and staying on the face ups the grade a letter or two. One of the fixed pins remains for those die-hards who want to experience the original line, but y... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Le Rap Et Tap (5.11b PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: The anchors atop Le Rap (and its neighbors) are now bolts with chains, suitable for lowering. Also, a variation of sorts has been added that avoids the fixed pin. At the break (that takes the big handsized cam described in tenesmus' original post), go right and up to a new bolt that protects moves back to the original line. It's probably a tad easier than the original line, but it avoids the big ledge mentioned by Spencer and seems to add a little more climbing. Still should carry a set of c... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Scimitar (5.11)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Hence the name, dude. For real terror, do Don't Look a Gift Block.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: We used the Venturi raps (3 raps with a single 70m down the Venturi shield to reach the PV stations). While pulling the rope on the second Venturi rap, the rope got brutally stuck in a perfect rope-eating crack above the end of the rappel. Call us unlucky or unskilled, but we also got the rope stuck on the last rap to the ground -- jeesh. Exceptional route in any event. PS, be prepared to chose an alternative line if the weather is stable; 5 parties were on the PV the day before we... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Over Easy (5.7)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: Once near the base area for Dead Snag, you can largely avoid the nasty talus and scree field under Over Easy by bearing right on a good trail and up toward the gully/wide chimney leading to the northwest face of Talk Buttress. This is also the approach to Direct North Ridge, Hyperbole, and Empty Rhetoric.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Lord of the Long Arms (5.9+)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: That's great info Gary -- you need to post up more. I didn't see any rust, so I think these are good to go for awhile (but they are all SMC hangers, so at some point, replacing them would be a good public service). Hope you didn't think my post was a criticism. I have placed my share of split shaft buttonheads with SMC hangers (worse, a number were the shorty 1/4 inchers with homemade bedframe hangers) -- now also decades old; spooky!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Lend Me a Dime (5.12b)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: I mix up left and right too. That happens in your sixth decade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Lord of the Long Arms (5.9+)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: All the routes on this little slab are quarter-inch buttonheads. They look to be in good shape, but....


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Battalion of Saints Wall
By: John Steiger When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: A newly installed (in June 2013) cell tower now marks the parking area, which also has a short spur road leading down to the creek -- once the odometer hits 6.1, look for it; hard to go wrong. Straightforward, easy approach -- ignore comments to the contrary. Battalion has some of the best rock in BCC. Anyone have some history about the nearby "castle" that overlooks the road?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Scimitar (5.11)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: That thar bomb are fighting wurds, no damn respect ... (more unintelligible grumbling).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Entrance Dome : The Big Sleep (5.9)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 15, 2013

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Comments: My most vivid recall of KR is of him standing in his living room holding his arms straight out to the sides squeezing off sets using those v-shaped hand exercisers (yes, he did work out), long hair over one eye, and that silly grin on his face (but not, uh, from working out). Sigh. Thanks for the post Brian.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Treadmill Wall : JVS (5.11b)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Nicely bolted; just enough to keep the route safe but engaging. One of the better 5.11s in the Millstone/Treadmill/Inversion Therapy area, IMO.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Treadmill Wall : Treadmill (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Um, no hands rest? There is a large loose-appearing flake that one could wrap a leg around and drop hands, but I didn't want to commit my 180lbs to it. I like my belayer.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Golden Showers (5.12b)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Tempted to give this four stars, but it doesn’t seem to have the track record – yet – to be considered classic. With the direct finish, the line gives two brain-teasing cruxes; the bolts are spread out just far enough to stimulate one’s focus; and the move to the finishing “scoop” is your classic tail stinger. Not super solid rock, but nothing seemed loose. Suggest taking an adjustable wrench to remove the screw-link on the last bolt; that’s a difficult enough cl... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Red Rock Wall
By: John Steiger When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Doesn’t look like much, but this crag has great limestone, better than Hellgate. Steep but easy approach – Reasoning, No Recess, and Satan’s Snowblower, not to mention some of the best views BCC has to offer, are all well worth the walk. The routes go quickly, so there’s plenty of time for an après-climb Epic IPA or Stout at Silver Fork Lodge just up the road.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Calling All Karmas (5.12a/b)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Superb rock and well protected, but really a boulder problem -- V4, maybe height dependent.


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