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No Name Crack, 5.10, Supercrack Buttress, Indian C...


Member Since: Aug 31, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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John Ryan
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Total Points: 170
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 77 | Routes 14 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 41 | Stars 8 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: John Ryan When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: I've done this route four times, and it is full value. The 5.9 start is great - only 5.9 I've had to highstep and rock over my foot onto. The 5.8 mantle is like everyone says - stout. At the very least this is a 5.9. I've climbed V3 boulder problems with a mantle topout that felt about the same. A small divet on the left side of the dihedral for a foothold made the mantle much easier. I remembered the pro being solid and able to prevent a fall onto the slab - I climbed it a few days ago an... more >>


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Davis Face : Carter Classic (5.9)
By: John Ryan When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: This is a really great route. Protection is solid, especially where you want/need it. Fixed pin seemed solid as of 5/17/15 pulling the right portion of the roof. The 5.4 runout traverse is short and super easy. Also, when we did the route we found no tat or rap station at any of the summit trees. Those trees have taken a beating here and are barely hanging on - we missed the rap station, which as I understand it is to the right of the second tree from the very top, approximately 20-30 feet belo... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : ... : Photo
By: John Ryan When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the beta! We knew exactly what to look for, and what side of the gully it was on. This was helpful when it was hailing on us.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: John Ryan When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: The climb was really fun - quite mellow for the grade. Gear is great, especially nuts. As others have said, the approach is brutal. There were lots of bail anchors throughout the first three pitches.

The rap anchors seem to constantly change looking at all the comments. On 9/1/14, the first rappel anchor consisted only of the 3 old pitons and one rap ring, but by 9/2/14 there is a fourth piece and a locker. To get to the first rap station - scramble down and right into the gully. It's a... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Staying Power (5.11c)
By: John Ryan When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this in January 2014 - at the crux, there was a very positive flake for the left hand - this broke off while I was climbing it - sorry!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Mushroom People (5.10+)
By: John Ryan When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Got on this thinking it was an easier classic, but was very glad I did! The crux can be protected well with a medium nut and/or a 00 Metolius Master Cam or TCU. Do it!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: John Ryan When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This is a very striking route with excellent gear in a beautiful setting. The first two pitches are easily combined to reach the large belay ledge at the end of pitch 2. Pitch 3 is a straight forward dihedral crack with tons of varied protection options. Pitch 3 belay station is a nice ledge big enough for 3 people. Pitch 4 is weird but fun, with great exposure. We rapped on a 70 m and 60 m from the upper anchors on top of Pitch 4 to the ledge at the top of Pitch 2 without difficulty. We s... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: John Ryan When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This was a fun route - finding the start was a little tricky as it is very overgrown and does not appear to be very traveled. There may have been a better way to access the start but we scrambled up a 4th/5th class ramp with large pockets. The first pitch is easy but has really poor quality rock - I doubt protection would hold. We combined the first two pitches and ended up in a protected alcove. From here a sweet crack system goes up two pitches on a 70 m with excellent gear. A short pitch... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: John Ryan When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: I have no idea how this climb is considered a classic. The first 1-2 pitches totally suck and are a scramble up a chossy gully - 4th class at best except for a few moves. Maybe a half-pitch of cool climbing at the top. Worst climb I've done in Yosemite.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab
By: John Ryan When: Nov 3, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this 11/2/12. Here's some clarification of the second pitch. We read the second pitch was 'not recommended' with no reasons given. We saw rumors of a walk-off, so we brought one rope. At the top of first pitch 150-ish feet, there were three solid modern anchors and two old school 1/4 inch anchors. The start of second pitch was great - delicate feet with some hand jams and laybacking. Tricky and fun. After 15 feet of this you pull up onto an easy stance. Here's where it starts to suck. ... more >>


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