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here comes johnny


Member Since: Jul 3, 2010
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact J Marsella

Point Rank: # 375
Total Points: 1,634
Last Year: 577
Last 30 Days: 66
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J Marsella been climbing?










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Contributions


All 954 | Routes 49 | Areas 15 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements 22 | Comments 83 | Posts 50 | Stars 426 | Ratings 155
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: J Marsella When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: The plaque is busted up in pieces now :( Alas.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Mini Skirt (5.9+) : Photo (Copy)
By: J Marsella When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: Mini Skirt climbs the bolt line adjacent to the corner-crack. It begins at the vertical seam pictured above and jogs to the left at a ledge about halfway up the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Putterman's Buttress : Mt. Julian Fisher-Fat Basta... (5.7)
By: J Marsella When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: After reading the comments, I couldn't help but want to climb this route. Wait-- did I say "want"? I meant "NEED." It rivals Castleton in all but the too-short approach.

But really, not bad for a final stop on the way out of town. The approach is easy enough, the belay area isn't *too* loose, and your partner will only throw small chunks of mud-rock at you if he's careful. Remember to pull down and not out & test your holds before committing, kids...

3 bolts as of 3-19-15. There were severa... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Putterman's Buttress : Mt. Julian Fisher-Fat Basta... (5.7) : Photo
By: J Marsella When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: Three bolts & slings with rings at the top. Bring some cord and replace the tat!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Chain Rock : Crack, Snapple, Pop (V0)
By: J Marsella When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: This might be a reproduction of the "Cavus Maximus" route. I don't know which name came first, or if the two are just a/k/a's of each other...? (HA, you beat me to it in the comments section on the other route.)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : True to Tradition/Tucker's ... (5.7+)
By: J Marsella When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: As of 11-20-14, the two lower studs are still present on this route. It would be nice if they were removed. I agree with Caleb (above) that a fall from either of the two missing bolts would not go well; also, reaching the first available bolt is straightforward from the belay ledge.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The B.O.S.S. Method (5.8)
By: J Marsella When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Rob & Arlo (above) - going straight up the slab section is slightly tougher than 5.8, maybe not quite 9+.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Slicer (5.10c)
By: J Marsella When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: It's possible to start on the route to the left and traverse in to the second bolt of Slicer to skip the initial roof. This variant is still difficult but balancy rather than thuggy.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Clam Shell (5.5) : Photo
By: J Marsella When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: The bolt line runs slightly to the left of the climber in this photo; it starts in the dished out corner and goes essentially straight up along the mottled rib.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Slip and Slide (5.10d)
By: J Marsella When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: You can definitely get away without any gear besides the QDs, and the falls wouldn't be too far. The runouts are over at-least slightly easier climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Tony Bubb's Little Stick (5.10d) : Photo
By: J Marsella When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Got that fixed, Rick. Thanks for the feedback.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
By: J Marsella When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: September 20th - the water is low enough to cross either above the crag (a 5-foot jump) or just below it at the talus slope.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Photo
By: J Marsella When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Streach is located on the shaded slab, lower left; Sonata, etc are located on the sunny slab, upper right.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : ... : Photo
By: J Marsella When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: Sorry for the crappy small photo. I'll try to get a better one at some point.

L->R: Alvino's Variation, Ripple, Summit Block Route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock
By: J Marsella When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: To add to Garrett's comment: there is a 1-2 car pullout just (ie, 20 ft) west / down-canyon from the mm 12 sign. The trail you want is across from that pullout, and is a nice maintained trail... If you go up-canyon instead, there is another trail about 30ft up from the 12 sign which leads to one bolted route and eventually to Hard Rock, but it is extremely loose and probably dangerous.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg
By: J Marsella When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Ruckman guides suggest a trail @ 0.35 mi. This trail sucks but it gets you there and starts just up-canyon from the 40 MPH sign. Don't do it.

Alternate approach begins just next to a large electrical box thing at ~0.3 mi and starts with some wooden-terraced steps. Hang a right just past the next electrical box thing/pole. Follow the awesome trail from here up and trending eastward where possible to reach the switchbacks leading to the final 4th class for the left side of the Egg.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Pebbles and Bambam (5.9)
By: J Marsella When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Note re: rappelling the route-- a 70m rope will get either to the tree-ledge with a downclimb to the Beckey's 2nd anchor or alternately, swing over climbers left to the beefy rap station at the tree about halfway down the slab section (i.e., in line with the 3rd pitch of Beckey's).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall
By: J Marsella When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Was at Division Wall today-- the campsite numbering looks to have changed at some point-- there didn't appear to be a #64. Instead, park next to the vault toilets just before the wheel-spike exit and walk forward. Alternately, park just outside the L.M. campground exit and walk in...

The belay areas looked awesome today, 8/4/14, thanks to the SLCA. Thanks!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Dick Van Dike (5.9-)
By: J Marsella When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Closely enough bolted in the bottom (more difficult) section to be comfortable for the new 5.9 leader.

The large crystal inclusion in the middle seemed solid today, 7/31/14.

The upper part does have some spacing between the bolts as described, but it is over considerably easier terrain (see the comment above), especially if the leader chooses to use the crystals and sidepulls bordering the "green mile" section.

A viable plan B for when the rock through Law School's first four bolts is wet.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Shag (5.7)
By: J Marsella When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: I counted 11 bolts today, but I could be wrong. Generally good route and the runouts indicated in the description are over very easy territory. Nothing that should stop even a new 5.7 leader.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : "Is Our Children Learning?" (5.9+)
By: J Marsella When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: As for the belay bolt: there's a hidden piton in the rocks at ground level to the right of the start of this route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Iron John/Little Tree area : Highway Blues (5.7+)
By: J Marsella When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the two non-locking biners that were holding the chains to the bolts with quicklinks 7/20/14. If you want your biners back, let me know.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Dorsal Crack Area : Photo
By: J Marsella When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Note that the nice tree in the older beta photo is now the dead log in this picture.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Sign Crack Area : ... : Photo
By: J Marsella When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: And no cracks worth speaking of to accept gear.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: J Marsella When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Re: Approach - currently there are concrete barriers directly across from the "one-car dirt pullout" on the North (non-river) side of the road. This is about 0.3 miles below the handicapped fishing area that sits ~3.2 mi above Drake. Coming downcanyon, if you reach mile marker 73, you've gone too far.


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