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Member Since: Jul 3, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact John Marsella


Point Rank: # 603
Total Points: 958
Last Year: 376
Last 30 Days: 77
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has John Marsella been climbing?










Contributions


All (600) | Routes (39) | Areas (9) | Photos (77) | Comments (48) | Posts (48) | Stars (268) | Ratings (111)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can...
By: John Marsella When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Note that the approaches for some crags across the creek as described in B.G.'s guide and here on MP may have changed significantly since the 2013 floods.

While some low-water season crossings may be easier to do with the wider, shallower channel, the character of the waterway has changed such that some of the previously described crossings don't go with higher flows.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : South "Moai" Unnamed Routes (5.9-)
By: John Marsella When: 6 days ago

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Comments: If anyone knows actual names for these lines, please let me know. I don't assume to name the routes if someone already has. The profile of the formation looks like a nose, but that name is taken by a much regal bit of stone.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Stewardess Convention Crag : Oxygen Masks and Float Cush... (5.8 PG13)
By: John Marsella When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Go around the bush however you can unless you really like having relations with shrubbery (although to be honest, it was probably the crux).


Location: MC Poopypants : Freedom : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: I don't think you're supposed to wear a long sleeved shirt as pants, Beibs.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : ... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Awakenings, 5.9, is just to the right of the dihedral (shown in center of this photo). Times Square 5.8 is out of frame further right-- and wanders a bit, according to the D'Antonio guide.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Mother 1 (5.7+)
By: John Marsella When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Did what we thought was the "easy chimney" approach (could be!); in any event, it's become some sort of piss vault. I feel dirty after rubbing my body on the latrine walls. Smells rank in there.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Stewardess Convention Crag
By: John Marsella When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: 40.173852, -105.361712.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Pilot Knob : ... : Autopilot (5.10a)
By: John Marsella When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: The route to the right (Admiral's Club, 5.9- R) has only 2 bolts and one ring piton. This route has one bolt under the roof, one a ways past the roof, a pin, and then the final bolt before the tree.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Pilot Knob : ... : Scoop Up a Little Sky (5.9+)
By: John Marsella When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Nate, I think you've got this one confused with another route if you're saying there are not bolted anchors at the end of this one. There are 2 bolt/hangers at the top of the pillar that this route is on -- they do not have lowering rings however. Easy enough to walk over to Stress Fracture, though.

Also, perhaps some holds have broken off since the Gillett guide came out (as evidenced by "new" exposed rock near the bolt) -- I agree with Nate (if we're talking about the same route) that the sec... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Pilot Knob : ... : Cockpit (5.7)
By: John Marsella When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Justin-- I agree, not 5.7, but when I am entering these routes I am going by the guidebook grade. The MP consensus scheme will show the "real" grade eventually!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Moot Point
By: John Marsella When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Hey Brent,

Thanks for clearing that up. I was using the Stephens "Adventure Climbs of Herb & Jan Conn" guide (and the maps therein) to locate, and I guess I misread the map (Moot Point was not marked, but now upon a review of the map, p20, I see where I went wrong).

Anyway, I had a blast in the SoDak Black Hills and I hope to return.

-JFM


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Dam - Back Side : East Dam Gully (?) (5.2)
By: John Marsella When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: If anyone has a real name for this let me know. I don't think an FA'ist would bother to lay claim to the route, but I figured it's worth cataloging in any event.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Triple Play (5.10a)
By: John Marsella When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Ditto on the contrived character of the line. It's hard to resist the stems leftmost of the time. We used a #3.0, 3.5, and 00 Friend for the bottom part.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Pilot Knob
By: John Marsella When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: In his excellent guide from Sharp End Publishing, Gillett offers the advice that, if you wish to climb the "Third Tier," you can, but it's not worth the time; and he suggests eschewing the rap bolts for the 4th-class downclimb.

Also of note: Parking GPS coords: 40.173458,-105.362147


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Nervous in Suburbia (5.10a)
By: John Marsella When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Fun route after getting the first bolt clipped. To echo other comments: send a solid, confident or foolish leader as getting to that first bold is a bit tenuous.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Cloister Frock (5.9)
By: John Marsella When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: The rock down low is fairly dirty / flaky; this makes for a medium pucker-factor.

Sustained climbing down low eases and eventually turns to a very run-out scramble (40'ish of 5.2?) to the anchors (2 cold-shut types).


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge
By: John Marsella When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: Watch out for ticks! 4/3/13.


Location: Liberty : Me : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 26, 2013

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Comments: beautiful natural duo-doigt pocket.


Location: AlanJ : st. vrain vally, lyons colo... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: www.mountainproject.com/v/scout-rock/105744935

Also, Gillett's guide is worth getting. Possibly available at sharpendbooks.com


Location: AlanJ : st. vrain vally, lyons colo... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: That's scout rock. The big chimney just in the left of the frame is 5.4 or something with bolts up top. The leaning crack is 5.9.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : I Promise Not To Cam In You... (5.10b)
By: John Marsella When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: Didn't see the pin today 16-Feb-13 (though that doesn't mean it's not there). Also, the slings around the horn (mentioned in BG's guide) were rotted off, so plan to sling that rock yourself.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonde... (5.9+)
By: John Marsella When: Jan 26, 2013

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Comments: Supplementary gear options also include C3 (red or yellow) or HB offset #5.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: John Marsella When: Nov 21, 2012

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Comments: 11-21-12: No hymenoptera nor pins at the belay, though I could have not been looking well enough.

Also, I was able to get plenty of pro in p1 (some may have been more psychological than functional) with little drag, using slings judiciously.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Sign Crack Area : Hop Skip and a Jump (5.7)
By: John Marsella When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Replaced tree rap station with webbing. Removed frayed tat.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : 99% Pure (5.9)
By: John Marsella When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: Used cupped, cammed hands and forearm-jams to get up this one. BD #3s or WC #3.5s are the way to go. Bring several....


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