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Member Since: Jul 3, 2010
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact John Marsella


Point Rank: # 373
Total Points: 1,588
Last Year: 761
Last 30 Days: 53
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Marsella been climbing?










Contributions


All 918 | Routes 48 | Areas 15 | Photos 153 | Page Improvements 15 | Comments 78 | Posts 77 | Stars 383 | Ratings 149
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : True to Tradition/Tucker's ... (5.7+)
By: John Marsella When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: As of 11-20-14, the two lower studs are still present on this route. It would be nice if they were removed. I agree with Caleb (above) that a fall from either of the two missing bolts would not go well; also, reaching the first available bolt is straightforward from the belay ledge.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The B.O.S.S. Method (5.8)
By: John Marsella When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Rob & Arlo (above) - going straight up the slab section is slightly tougher than 5.8, maybe not quite 9+.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Slicer (5.10c)
By: John Marsella When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: It's possible to start on the route to the left and traverse in to the second bolt of Slicer to skip the initial roof. This variant is still difficult but balancy rather than thuggy.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Clam Shell (5.5) : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: The bolt line runs slightly to the left of the climber in this photo; it starts in the dished out corner and goes essentially straight up along the mottled rib.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Slip and Slide (5.10d)
By: John Marsella When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: You can definitely get away without any gear besides the QDs, and the falls wouldn't be too far. The runouts are over at-least slightly easier climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Tony Bubb's Little Stick (5.10d) : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Got that fixed, Rick. Thanks for the feedback.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
By: John Marsella When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: September 20th - the water is low enough to cross either above the crag (a 5-foot jump) or just below it at the talus slope.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Streach is located on the shaded slab, lower left; Sonata, etc are located on the sunny slab, upper right.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : ... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: Sorry for the crappy small photo. I'll try to get a better one at some point.

L->R: Alvino's Variation, Ripple, Summit Block Route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock
By: John Marsella When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: To add to Garrett's comment: there is a 1-2 car pullout just (ie, 20 ft) west / down-canyon from the mm 12 sign. The trail you want is across from that pullout, and is a nice maintained trail... If you go up-canyon instead, there is another trail about 30ft up from the 12 sign which leads to one bolted route and eventually to Hard Rock, but it is extremely loose and probably dangerous.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg
By: John Marsella When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Ruckman guides suggest a trail @ 0.35 mi. This trail sucks but it gets you there and starts just up-canyon from the 40 MPH sign. Don't do it.

Alternate approach begins just next to a large electrical box thing at ~0.3 mi and starts with some wooden-terraced steps. Hang a right just past the next electrical box thing/pole. Follow the awesome trail from here up and trending eastward where possible to reach the switchbacks leading to the final 4th class for the left side of the Egg.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Pebbles and Bambam (5.9)
By: John Marsella When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Note re: rappelling the route-- a 70m rope will get either to the tree-ledge with a downclimb to the Beckey's 2nd anchor or alternately, swing over climbers left to the beefy rap station at the tree about halfway down the slab section (i.e., in line with the 3rd pitch of Beckey's).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall
By: John Marsella When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Was at Division Wall today-- the campsite numbering looks to have changed at some point-- there didn't appear to be a #64. Instead, park next to the vault toilets just before the wheel-spike exit and walk forward. Alternately, park just outside the L.M. campground exit and walk in...

The belay areas looked awesome today, 8/4/14, thanks to the SLCA. Thanks!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Dick Van Dike (5.9-)
By: John Marsella When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Closely enough bolted in the bottom (more difficult) section to be comfortable for the new 5.9 leader.

The large crystal inclusion in the middle seemed solid today, 7/31/14.

The upper part does have some spacing between the bolts as described, but it is over considerably easier terrain (see the comment above), especially if the leader chooses to use the crystals and sidepulls bordering the "green mile" section.

A viable plan B for when the rock through Law School's first four bolts is wet.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Shag (5.7)
By: John Marsella When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: I counted 11 bolts today, but I could be wrong. Generally good route and the runouts indicated in the description are over very easy territory. Nothing that should stop even a new 5.7 leader.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : "Is Our Children Learning?" (5.9+)
By: John Marsella When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: As for the belay bolt: there's a hidden piton in the rocks at ground level to the right of the start of this route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Iron John/Little Tree area : Highway Blues (5.7+)
By: John Marsella When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the two non-locking biners that were holding the chains to the bolts with quicklinks 7/20/14. If you want your biners back, let me know.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Dorsal Crack Area : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Note that the nice tree in the older beta photo is now the dead log in this picture.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Sign Crack Area : ... : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: And no cracks worth speaking of to accept gear.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: John Marsella When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Re: Approach - currently there are concrete barriers directly across from the "one-car dirt pullout" on the North (non-river) side of the road. This is about 0.3 miles below the handicapped fishing area that sits ~3.2 mi above Drake. Coming downcanyon, if you reach mile marker 73, you've gone too far.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Brown Hangers (5.9)
By: John Marsella When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: I couldn't find info on this route on here (MP). RC.com or the older version of BG's guide for the area did not have it listed. Please supply any information about this route in comments or with Improve this Page feature, and we'll get it straightened out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Men in Tights (5.10b) : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: This crag is not well-suited for good beta photos, as there are many trees around the base. This makes for a pleasant summer cragging session though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Merry Men (5.11b) : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: This crag is not well-suited for good beta photos, as there are many trees around the base. This makes for a pleasant summer cragging session though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : The Prince and The Pauper (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: This crag is not well-suited for good beta photos, as there are many trees around the base. This makes for a pleasant summer cragging session though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Boyz From The Hood (5.10) : Photo
By: John Marsella When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: This crag is not well-suited for good beta photos, as there are many trees around the base. This makes for a pleasant summer cragging session though.

Note that only 5 of the 6 clips are depicted. The 6th clip is around the corner on the face, which leads to the final run to the anchors.


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