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Bastille Crack Final Pitch


Member Since: Nov 23, 2008
Last Visit: Nov 13, 2013
Contact John Maguire


Point Rank: # 2,469
Total Points: 212
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Maguire been climbing?










Contributions


All 703 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 37 | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts 499 | Stars 104 | Ratings 45

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Photo
By: John Maguire When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: Phil - is it weird I recognized you by your wind breaker and bandana before I even saw the caption? Haha


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Mojo Rising (5.9)
By: John Maguire When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: A biner fits fine in the piton. It looks like a new one has been driven in....


Location: Tony B : Springfield Gorge, OH : Photo
By: John Maguire When: May 28, 2010

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Comments: too much tony...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Northwest Face (5.8)
By: John Maguire When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: This route is fun for sure. Some will disagree, but I don't think I would recommend this for someone just breaking to the 5.8 grade. The first section of the route does not protect great. Most of the cracks are too shallow/flared to get a good downward facing cam into.

It is also extremely important to consider rope drag. I ran into some problems when the rope was feeding through a crack below me. This made the final 30' quite difficult. It's an awesome climb, but one that you should definitel... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: John Maguire When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: The torso-sized block is still there and still ready to go. It's especially dangerous because the rope runs right on top of it when you clip the bolts before and after. I ended up bailing on the route at the thought of not wanting to kill my belayer. I would have been more than happy to try to clean it, but there were several parties climbing on the area directly underneath the route and it was far too risky. As it stands, I wouldn't feel comfortable belaying anyone up or climbing this route mys... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Wise Crack (5.8)
By: John Maguire When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 20, 2002
If we could assess the needs of bolts on each route specifically, start with this one. It's a very fun route. Problem is, as the name would imply, it's a crack. And it's bolted. And the excuse for this is?

...it's at a crag called The Sport Park....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : 30 Seconds Over Potash (5.8)
By: John Maguire When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: Awesome climb! It helps to have either a standard rack to #3 Camelot or doubles of #2 Camelot...


Location: Phil Lauffen : pix : Photo
By: John Maguire When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: cute


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Miscellaneous Castlewood Bo... : Little Devil (V11 X)
By: John Maguire When: Mar 4, 2009

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Comments: Why is the rating so high? That looks pretty easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: John Maguire When: Mar 4, 2009

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Comments: It can be kinda hard to find the start of this route because there are a lot of really fun looking lines along the pipe. Look on the left for a long chain bolted from the rock at eye level and slightly left and then another large bolt directly on the route.

Did this yestarday and it was definitely a lot of fun although I'll admit the crux was somewhat intimidating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: John Maguire When: Feb 7, 2009

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Comments: Really fun route and great place to climb sport. Nice to see you on the climb, Ron. Thanks again for all your work here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: John Maguire When: Feb 2, 2009

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Comments:
  • ** Protection Beta *** For Beginner Leaders: When the top of the crack gets very run out, look for a second vertical crack an arms reach to the right that will take a #4 Metolius or similar sized cam. This protects the route well.



Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: John Maguire When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: Watch out for pigeons having sex on this rock. It is the pigeon brothel of Boulder. Sometimes it can be very frustrating. If you spit on them, they fly away.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: John Maguire When: Dec 2, 2008

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Comments: Cody,
I really thought I was clear, but you seem to be misunderstanding. We climbed New Era. The entire route. On route. When we got to the top, the objective was to rap down to where we started. On the face of the wall facing the same direction as the New Era route (away from Montezuma's kinda), there are two rappel anchors. If you rappel off of these, you arrive down and two the left slightly at the slung three piton anchor. From this anchor, you have to try to make it back to the first belay... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: John Maguire When: Nov 29, 2008

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Comments: Cody,

It is very straightforward to get to the two (or three pitons) connected by webbing, no arguments. Without two ropes though, which direction are you supposed to go? I'm not sure where the other routes you are speaking of are as I'm not that familiar with the area. If you head to the right (while looking at the cliff), you have to make that very tough traverse I mentioned. That traverse aligns you back on the New Era route at the location of the first pitch. Are there rappel rings somewher... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: John Maguire When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: Did New Era for the first time today. One of my favorite climbs ever with tons of exposure. Speaking for the rappel, we rapped off the first bolts directly under and left of the summit. This rap went nearly straight down and was fairly straightfoward. Here you have to sling through two pins and probaly leave some webbing. We rappelled down and had to go very far right (looking at the wall) to get to the anchors at the first pitch of New Era. If you plan to do the rappel in this way, make sure yo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: John Maguire When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: THAT'S ME!!!