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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.10 Crack aka "Thin Finger... (5.10c C1)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt 5.10 to me. Great finger locks down low. Once you figure out the sequence at the roof, pulling it is not that bad.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : Dark Tower (5.6)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Aug 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A set of tri cams will help immensely with this route in my opinion. Still dirty. I think it would clean up into something if more people got on it. No ants on top.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : Lothlorien (5.8)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a fairly new leader, I felt the bolt spacing was well thought out. This is not a 5.6/5.7 gym climb. The bolts are run out for the grade and in all reality that is what bumps this from a 6 to a 7. A nice climb in a nice area. Don't go on weekends like we did; it felt like a gym.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Admission Crack (5.7)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Also, this route really sucks I wouldn't give it a single star. It's offwidth, easily sucks your leg up to the knee, forcing you in and out of the crack for each move. It's just a grunt. I bashed the s%^t out of my elbow on the dihedralish face to the right."
I feel like this quote sums up offwidth climbing pretty well. For what it's worth, I'm heading back to lead it next time I'm in the Vrain. It looks pretty dope.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Merit Based Pay (5.7)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the move to gain the thin crack; as the crux move, was certainly harder then anything on Community Service. If that is what we are basing the grading on, then Merit Based Pay is harder. I felt that Community Service was more sustained for a 5.6 grade. The crimps at the top headwall of Merit are pretty cool.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Standard Route (5.6)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Jun 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a very nice route. Not a gimmie at the grade.
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Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Capra Diem (5.8)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: May 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We pulled off two softball-sized rocks right at the crux moves on the first pitch. I will agree that the first pitch could be a decent moderate, but it still needs a lot of clean up. It started to rain, so we could not get on the second pitch. Climb at your own peril.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Rescue Route (5.6)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Apr 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 4/29/12, the bolts at the top of pitch 1 are in good shape. There is some tat that we didn't use, because it looked pretty rotten. I would have replaced it if I had brought extra webbing.
Overall, not a bad route. Not stellar, but the little ledge at the end of pitch one is pretty nice and has a very cool view down the canyon. Head up the dirty gully until you look left and see a two bolt anchor on a ramp, these are not for you. From here, head straight up the slab in front of you for... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Esse Curve (5.7)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a little spicier then Tempest Toast down the way.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Quarry Wall : Old'n (5.5)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Oct 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a very nice easy lead for new climbers. The gf led it as her second lead. Then a son and dad came up and the son led it. Very cool exposure.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Bong A Long (5.9+)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really good route. Best on the lower wall to be sure. Still a little dirty.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Unknown 5.8 (5.8)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little harder then Chug a jug next to it. Some good holds. I hope more people get on this wall to get it cleaned up. Still a little dirty.
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Location: IL : Mississippi Palisades : Double Overhang (5.8)
By: John Layko Torkleson When: Mar 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts look good at the top as of 3/13/11.
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