Point Rank: # 2,281
Total Points: 185
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Contributions
| All (190) | Routes (5) | Areas (2) | Photos (6) | Comments (75) | Posts (93) | Stars (7) | Ratings (2) | | Page 1 of 8. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next> |
Contributed Routes |
| Name |
Rating |
Type |
Location |
Useful To |
Date |
East Face Left | 5.6 Mod. Snow (2) | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III | CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Taylor Peak | | Jul 26, 2010 |
Ruta Normal | Mod. Snow (3) | Snow, Alpine, 4500 feet, Grade III | International : South America : ... : Volcan Osorno | | Jan 18, 2010 |
Sheryl's Peryl (FA) | 5.8 R (1) | Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III | CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mt. Alice | | Aug 25, 2009 |
Carpenter's Corner | 5.8 (1) | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet | CO : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock | | Nov 3, 2008 |
Creag Bleah | 5.8 (0) | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II | CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Grey Slab | | May 30, 2007 |
Contributed Comments | | |
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : South Prow (5.7)
By: John Korfmacher When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Al Wiedmann and I got on the first pitch of this route (I think) as described by Orin Salah above...by mistake. We were actually planning on a casual run up the NE Ridge, without realizing that the route starts on the OTHER side of the mountain! Anyway....
We tried two of the several RFDs in the area. They all seem to start off with about 50 feet of enjoyable climbing, then deteriorate into steep, insecure 5.10 ground with a thick encrustation of crumbly, gray lichens and less-than-awesome pro.... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.9)
By: John Korfmacher When: Aug 30, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: If this climb doesn't get your heart rate up, check with your doctor...you may be dead. Exposure every step of the way, and if you like wild, strenuous (albeit well-protected) moves over a lot of air, this route is for you.
We initially tried to Allison variation on P1. The corners, though attractive, are compact, lichenous, and not easily protected, and we settled for the standard 5.8 start.
I was a bit surprised at two aspects of the climb. First, there are some significant (though not huge)... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: John Korfmacher When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Excellent climb...much of the route protects well with stoppers, although a couple of extra pieces in the #0.5-#2 Camalot range are useful for the long, long P2. The thin corner near the top of P2 was definitely the crux for me. Except for the cruxes, much of the rest of this pitch is 5.7-5.8 with occasional non-footjam rests.
I definitely recommend the 5.10b finish (option C in the route description) which is exposed, strenuous, and well-protected.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: John Korfmacher When: Jun 11, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: Overall, this is a high-quality climb in a great, exposed setting. There are a few chossy sections and thus protection is adequate but not plentiful--this is not a sew-it-up route. The left-facing corner start (just left of the "flatiron" start) adds a steep, sustained 5.8 to an already good climb.
For my money, the best pitch is the 5.7 dihedral/chimney (P3). The summit pitch, though exciting, is overhung, awkward, and not really my personal cup of tea. This is a full-value route.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Undercling Right (5.8)
By: John Korfmacher When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: If you do the full three-segment zigzag on this route, the lowest 10m are solid 5.9/9+. Poor feet and the angle of the cracks makes for insecure holds. The angles also make passive protection difficult.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Knee Catcher (5.6)
By: John Korfmacher When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> | Comments: There are some very nice, very solid handjams available in the back of the crack. OW technique needed only by those with small hands and/or short arms. I actually thought this was quite a fun pitch.
The bolt anchor at the top currently (as of March 2012) has some problems...one of the bolts is missing, and the remaining bolt is old and kinda weathered. It's also a spinner. The missing bolt either was removed or fell out (!). In any event, the anchor is poorly located. I'd recommend bringing a c... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Chickenhead (5.8)
By: John Korfmacher When: Jun 1, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: Fine climb. Second pitch looks kinda dirty and chossy from the bottom, but it's actually pretty funky--lots of wild, ass-hanging-out moves on big holds with solid pro. P3 is a little confusing at first, but stare at it a little while and you'll get it.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: John Korfmacher When: May 27, 2011 | view comment >> | Comments: P1 of the route is in pretty good shape right now, although the upper slabby bit has some exfoliation going on which adds a little spice. A 5.9 rating is a bit stiff for this route (as are some of the other grades on the December Wall). It felt more like 5.8 or 8+ to me.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Bushes of Baelzebub (5.8+)
By: John Korfmacher When: Oct 13, 2010 | view comment >> | Comments: Can be climbed as one pitch with a 60m rope, and judicious use of slings can minimize rope drag. Good pro throughout if you stay on route.
The OW crux felt like fair 5.8, but the awkward upper crux about 10m below the anchors felt kinda stiff for the grade. #11 hex protects the OW if you don't have a #4 cam.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Lone Eagle Peak : North Face (5.7)
By: John Korfmacher When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> | Comments: If you're expecting clean, continuous rock climbing, this route will be a disappointment. If you desire a classic mountaineering line on good rock in a spectacular place, do this route; it's one of the best.
The black, 5.5 chimney above the initial ramp is a bit of a grovel but not too bad. The good stuff starts on the 5-easy stuff on P8, which has enjoyable movement and decent pro if you're not comfortable soloing the pitch.
Many people do this climb in approach shoes or boots, but ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Deville Rocks : Deville 3 : Kornerstone Edge (5.7+ PG13)
By: John Korfmacher When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> | Comments: Classic Layton Kor creation with lots of exposure, so-so pro, wild moves, and lichen. An enjoyable route if you're comfortable with the occasional runout. It is remarkably steep for a 5.7 but large knobs and incuts abound which make for a more moderate experience.
The slabby bit near the end of P1 can be protected with two equalized small wires in a crack near the bottom of the slab, just left of where one stands on the pedestal. It isn't great but it would hold a short fall.
P2 crux as descri... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: John Korfmacher When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Climbed this route in excellent conditions on 9/5/09 with S. Costello...a dusting of snow made the footing on some of the shaded bits kinda tricky. The direct start probably doesn't add much time to the route and you can choose between 5.5 roped climbing and a lengthy but enjoyable 4th-class scramble up the ledges and steps.
Do not trifle with the weather--if you haven't reached the base of the climb by sunrise you are going to experience a waking nightmare in the rain on the standard-route des... more >>
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