Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Aug 29, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 14, 2013
Contact John Keller


Point Rank: # 10,223
Total Points: 17
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has John Keller been climbing?










Contributions


All (97) | Routes | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (12) | Posts (72) | Stars (6) | Ratings (6)
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Go ahead, splash me if you can!!!

Go ahead, splash me if you can!!!

Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : What was going on at Cob Ro... : Post

Jul 5, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : Y - North Side : Open Book (5.8+)
By: John Keller When: Mar 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Now why would you call this climb 'unfortunately' a classic? I grew up on this climb. It's fantastic. If the Open Book (and Lost Almost in general) is where you learned hand jams, you can climb cracks anywhere. Because of this climb, I'm never so happy as when I have my hands in a crack.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Handbook (5.9)
By: John Keller When: Jul 19, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I did this climber yesterday and loved it. The top pitch(es) to get off are dull but the first two are really great. We started up at the same alcove as Sorcerer/Mariner with a cool but unprotected step around move left into the first pitch. This avoided the grassy bits at the bottom. The pitch is pretty fun double flared Lumpy cracks with plenty of gear. The descriptions talk about going for 70ft, but if you start from the bottom, it is quite a bit further than that. Rossiter's topo has y... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: John Keller When: Jul 12, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Just did this route over the weekend and I'm amazed that it isn't as popular as Mainliner. The full route is excellent. Kimball's comment about the start is the way to go. Rossiter has almost no description of this route but the topo is good. We used that and descriptions from two other books and it all worked out very well. Every pitch has good climbing on it. I thought pitch 4 was a bit harder than 6. The crack in pitch 5 is absolutely stellar. Just at the end of the crack there is a m... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Endless Crack (5.9)
By: John Keller When: Jul 12, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I just did this route yesterday and it was quite good. I agree that the full route description should be included. The crack and thin face work on the third pitch along the edge of kite slab should not be missed. The description in the above comment is really good as it describes making your choice of roof exit early after the main crack in the third pitch. I didn't do this and found myself under what turned out to be the 9+ roof exit. However, it's damn hard to switch to another exit once ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: John Keller When: Sep 10, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I just did this climb and had an experience I didn't think was possible... I got off route in a chimney. The description in H&T and the one given here are really good for the first pitch.HOWEVER! If you are belaying from the top of the chockstone or the ledge just above it you won't be able to see the route for the next pitch (which starts to the right but looks too narrow) and it is not to the left as suggested by the description.

The chimney goes back in to the left for another 40 feet or... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Mungajerry (5.10a)
By: John Keller When: Oct 29, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Be careful following the description that suggests moving directly up through some small face moves at one point rather than left to the quartz. While the thin face moves are certainly more interesting the crux is done with the last clip almost at your feet and a quartz ledge within striking distance below. If you come off on the face move, it will be difficult to keep from toeing the ledge. (Wasn't the cat named Mungo Jerry in the musical?)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Gus (5.10d)
By: John Keller When: Oct 29, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: And what's this about the route going straight up? The first few bolts are in a line above the anchors but after that this route wanders all over. I recommend having one or two long slings to extend some of the clips to limit rope drag. Also, it would be very hard to clean while being lowered or on rappel as the top anchors are well left of the bottom anchors and way overhung. We ended up having the second follow to the top then rappelling from there. Our 200 just got us down to a flat spot... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: John Keller When: Nov 27, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Three weeks ago friends and I climbed a mixed alpine route in Chaos Canyon. We don't know the name of the line and haven't found it in any guide books but it's pretty obvious. It's just to the right of the Chaotic Glacier and follows a line from the top of the snow on the lower right of the Chaotic snow field. It starts in the middle of three dihedrals and goes about 150ft slanting slightly right. We rated the pitch at M3 AI3 and a little 5.5. There wasn't a lot of ice but enough to get som... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Stinkzig (5.6)
By: John Keller When: Sep 18, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Jesse,

The photo in the Heel and Toe book has a mistake. Stinkzig is the left of the two offwidths. The right hand one is HandJacker (7+) and is much nicer than Stinkzig. See the HandJacker route description on this site. My comments above refer to Stinkzig.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: John Keller When: Aug 29, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: One look at the huge crack and it was stemming and face work for me. I never got into it once. However, it's about 5.8 and there isn't any pro till after the flake gets closer to the face.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Stinkzig (5.6)
By: John Keller When: Aug 29, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: The difficulties of this climb caused my friends and I to develop a new rating system. We call it 'FMA' for any climb that feels at least two grades harder than the book indicates. After three or four people of our group had backed off the 'unpleasant' first pitch, I managed it but was desperate the whole time screeming out at one point "F__cking 5.6 My Ass!!" Maybe I'm just bad at awkward offwidth unprotected chimnies.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Morte (5.9)
By: John Keller When: Aug 29, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: The anchors at the top of C'est La Morte and Whistle Stop (they end with the same upper part of the crack and left traverse) are set such that one 165ft rope will get you down... JUST BARELY... to the boulders leaning on the wall. Make sure the ends are even!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Eldo reopeningColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionJohn KellerSep 16, 2013
re: Bad Couple of Days on Longs PeakGeneral ClimbingJohn KellerAug 20, 2013
re: Found: stuck cam on Ruper in EldoLost and FoundJohn KellerAug 5, 2013
Found: stuck cam on Ruper in EldoLost and FoundJohn KellerAug 4, 2013
re: 10a trad climbsColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionJohn KellerJul 19, 2013
re: Rattled by Rattle Snake at base of C'est La Vie Redgarden Wall EldoradoColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionJohn KellerJul 10, 2013
re: The 5 Biggest Safety-Related Myths in Rock ClimbingGeneral ClimbingJohn KellerJul 9, 2013
re: The 5 Biggest Safety-Related Myths in Rock ClimbingGeneral ClimbingJohn KellerJul 9, 2013
Lost in Eldo, found in Eldo, returned to owner then beer...Lost and FoundJohn KellerJul 1, 2013
re: Is it still a redpoint if you place gear between boltsSport ClimbingJohn KellerJun 26, 2013
re: 6+ months of elbow tendonitisInjuries and AccidentsJohn KellerJun 25, 2013
re: Thoughts on sharing your top rope rig with others?Climbing Gear DiscussionJohn KellerJun 25, 2013
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>