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Member Since: Oct 29, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 8,999
Total Points: 27
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 59 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 14 | Stars 10 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Bald Rock Picnic Area
By: John Jackson When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: This area is typically referred to as "Bald Rock Picnic Area". Not to be confused with the nearby (though hard to find without specific approach directions) impressive, Bald Rock Dome area. Bald Rock Dome is comparable to the domes in Tuolumne Meadows, with the upper section of the dome featuring sustained, unbroken steep granite slab climbing up to 700+ feet*. (*Much longer routes than 700' possible if you go all the way to the bottom to start, below the standard traverse in, and link the lower... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Shirley Canyon Cliffs
By: John Jackson When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: One of the best granite crags in the North Tahoe area! As good as Snowshed Wall (probably better, imho, as it's taller) It was kept "under the radar" for many, many years, and only visited by climbers very rarely before the guidebook came out. Great climbing in a beautiful, semi "backcountry" like setting, with only a 50 minute approach.
All the route info can be found in the "LOCALS GUIDE to: Rock Climbs of North Tahoe" available at the camp4press.com website.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : Box Tops (5.11b)
By: John Jackson When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Cool! Always thought someone would/should put a route up the middle of that slab, to the left of Proof of Purchase. I'm sure it will be a fun slab route, to add to the old 5.9 route there.


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock
By: John Jackson When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: There are eleven routes detailed in the guidebook for the Upstream Crag and sixteen at the downstream crag by the suspension bridge (Locals Guide to: Rock Climbs Of North Tahoe)
You can get a copy at the camp4press.com website, or anywhere guidebooks are sold. As far as I know everything there has been done ground up in traditional style {no protection bolts as of a couple of years ago).


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade
By: John Jackson When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: For the scoop on the climbing in Northeast California check out the new "LOCALS GUIDE to: ROCK CLIMBS OF NORTHEAST CALIfORNIA" Dozens of new crags and great climbing in uncrowded settings, with plenty of further exploration to be had. Check out the info here: camp4press.com


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: John Jackson When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Johnny Woodward led this route ground up, reported to be without bolts, for the first ascent. He was strongly opposed to adding bolts to this, runout, route. Fortunately/unfortunately the only place where it was possible to get some pro in, sketchy and way up the route, fell off (and became a safer route). Subsequently the whole route was retro bolted and renamed from Totem Pile to Totem Pole.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Light Headed (5.10a)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: The route described is not "Light Headed" but is the route between "Light Headed" and "Greener Pastures" (See the North Tahoe Guidebook) this route is "Shake".


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : The Arena : Berry Jerry (5.9+)
By: John Jackson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: "Berry Jerry"-The Baskin Robins ice cream flavor named after Jerry Garcia (Greatful Dead Founder) Route first done August 13th, 1995, the day they put Jerry Garcia to rest. Craig, a huge "Deadhead" fan, and I were remembering his music that day....Fa Craig Martin & John Jackson btw


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Pump Lust (5.13b)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: On gear from what I was told, though it was third hand and I didn't confirm it directly with the first ascentionist. A proud line on gear!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : Center Wall : Mudshark (5.13c)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: ^^^^^^ So, did you send it? Would assume you did if you're posting about it. Some first hand beta would be appreciated. I belayed one of my old climbing partners, Joe Missick, the guy that did the fa, a couple of times when he was working it but missed the red point. Saw Joe do it a couple of times with one or two hangs before he redpointed it, but never saw anyone send it. Would be suprised if it ever has an onsite send, so sequential.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Pump Lust (5.13b)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: First ascent, which was done without bolts, was Harrison Decker 1987 (Doubt anyone else would have done it previous to that) Retro bolted early 90s, with fa party permission.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Tunnel Slab : Unknown 5.7 (5.9)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, I appreciate the support. Like I indicated above I thought MP is an appropiate place for the type of post you made (it contained new info, about being cleaned up, and opened a discusion on the rating) I only responded because the reference to left vs right were switched in the posted photo, and felt I should mention that it was incorrect.

Part of the other comment, not directed at this post btw, probably was spurred by a very recent experience I had. A prospective guidebook author appr... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Tunnel Slab : Unknown 5.7 (5.9)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: ^^^^^^ No offense. Posting up about having cleaned up a previously mungy, obscure route and giving a different opinion about the published rating of a route is the perfect use for the Mountain Project site. Posting up new/updated (or discussing ratings) is a good servive to the climbing commmunity. Posting up info that is available in a guidebook is not imo.

It is important for climbers to realize that Mountain Project, for all it's good intentions, has destroyed the possibility for producing... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Tunnel Slab : Unknown 5.7 (5.9)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: The description of the photo is not correct, unfortunately. (EDIT: It is correct now)

Route #21 at "Tunnel Slab" in the North Tahoe guidebook is not on the left side of this photo as described above. Route #19 goes up the, crackless, slab just left of center. Route #20 goes up the crack system to the right of that and route #18 is the route visible in the left of this photo.(Steeper and trickier than it looks) Route #21 is a very obvious, heavily, left slanting cra... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass
By: John Jackson When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Rams;

If you want the comprehensive guidebook for the North Tahoe region:

The new LOCALS GUIDE to North Tahoe has all 1,300 of the known routes in the North Tahoe-Donner-Reno region with full color overlays of almost every route. Included are seven hundred routes not documented in the other guidebooks listed, as well as a detailed history of climbing in the region.

More info here: camp4press.com


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : On Ramp (5.8)
By: John Jackson When: Jul 12, 2012

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Comments: ^^^^^ Glad you found the new North Tahoe guidebook more followable on this route than the old Falcon guide. :)

Most parties do top out on this, 3-4 pitch, popular route, and each pitch is equally enjoyable on good rock. (Though the second pitch is often wet in the spring) The route does not go to the anchors on the new route "Rat Ramp" though it is an option if going to top rope "Rat Ramp". This was actually my very first multi-pitch route, many, many years ago and have done it at least a dozen... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Centerfold (5.10+ PG13)
By: John Jackson When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: First ascent should say Max RODATZ. A bold lead of a fine climb.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : P.C.T. Cliff : P.C.T. Crack (5.10d)
By: John Jackson When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Good to hear this fine route is seeing some ascents. One of the best .10+ cracks in Tahoe imho. We had to clean up that short section, of moss/lichen filled, offwidth a bit on the upper section of the route in 94 when we did it. Somewhere I have a photo of the first lead, after we TRed and cleaned it, that I should post sometime. Bet it has only seen a couple of ascents at most. With the new North Tahoe guidebook out hopefully it will start seeing enough ascents to keep that short section of off... more >>


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Iron Butte : Red Beard (5.7)
By: John Jackson When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: The new North Tahoe guidebook definately does not indicate an anchor at, or near, the top of this route btw. (Be sure to read the "how to use this guidebook" in the front of the guidebook)


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Sommerset Boulders
By: John Jackson When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: I used to go bouldering at Pumpkin Patch Hill 20 years ago. "The Pumpkin" was the best boulder in the area close to town. Probably 25-30 ft. in diameter and about 15 ft. tall and shaped just like a big round pumpkin. Nice little cracks where the vertical grooves on a pumpkin would be. It was obvious that "The Pumpin Patch" had seen a fair amount of activity long before I first went there. Now "The Pumpkin" is part of someones landscaping and partially backfilled. A real shame they had to put a h... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Welcome to My Nightmare (5.11b/c)
By: John Jackson When: Jun 27, 2009

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Comments: This route was lead all trad, no bolts, by the Fa team. Hence the name.


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Iron Butte : Photo
By: John Jackson When: May 31, 2009

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Comments: That route is "The Wall"


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock : Karl's Variation (5.10+ R)
By: John Jackson When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: Consulting with the climbers who have been climbing at River Rock for a long time before thinking of adding bolts would be a good idea.

UNR climbing classes were taught at River Rock as far back as the 1960s and 70s. (According to someone I met there years ago who claimed he taught the class there in the 70s) Also met a couple there recently claiming to have climbed there while taking the class together in the late 60s or early 70s.

This has been a very popular place to climb for 40+ years. So... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Tall T (5.10b)
By: John Jackson When: Jan 3, 2009

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Comments: This route must be cleaning up and is now a fun route. Nice sustained edging up a steep slab/face.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Hair and Now (5.11c)
By: John Jackson When: Dec 20, 2007

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Comments: Name of this route is "HAIR AND NOW" .11c

FA Eric Pearlman / John Hoffman

late 1980s?


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