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Member Since: Oct 29, 2007
Last Visit: Aug 26, 2015
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Point Rank: # 6,777
Total Points: 56
Last Year: 30
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 74 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 14 | Stars 11 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rockslide at Roadcut Area - Donner Pass

Rockslide at Roadcut Area - Donner Pass

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Comment

Feb 8, 2015

Climber on Bald Rock Dome. (Paul Bernard photo)

Climber on Bald Rock Dome. (Paul Bernard photo)

CA : Northeast California : ... : Bald Rock Dome

Sep 24, 2014

Bald Rock Dome can just be seen on the far left. T...

Bald Rock Dome can just be seen on the far left. The, much taller, wall in the middle only has one or two known routes to the top. Lots of unclimbed rock in these canyons.

CA : Northeast California : ... : Bald Rock Dome

Sep 24, 2014

The nearby Bald Rock Dome.

The nearby Bald Rock Dome.

CA : Northeast California : ... : Bald Rock Dome

Sep 24, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Lower Slabs
By: John Jackson When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: Anyone ever send the (.11+? TR) project I briefly started on the steeper wall to the left of Dike Hike? I gave it a good shot on TR back in 2010 but never got back to do the, mandatory, cleaning it needed to send it on lead (or TR). Noted it in the guide book as a project, hoping someone would be motivated to clean, put in a couple bolts, and lead it. Would be a nice addition to this little wall/slab. Has anyone got on it yet?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Lower Slabs : Right of Black Streak (5.8+ R)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: This route, and two others here, were soloed in 1995. Maybe FAs? but maybe not..? The bolt was added in 2010 at the, brief, juncture of three routes while doing the fa of "Chasing Rainclouds (5.9) in 2010 and the first (at least roped) lead of Blackstreak. Same time as the bolted anchors and the few other bolts/routes were added.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : South Yuba River: 49 Crossi... : The acid tab (V1+ R)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Spent many summer days hanging out in my youth there (It was our summertime high school party hangout) We climbed all over those rocks for miles up and down the river, floating down and finding rocks to jump off of. Including climbing up the line shown. Jumped off of that rock (Acid Rock) more than a 100 times in the 70"s and early 80s. We were not looking for bouldering lines per say, just goofing around barefoot. Lots of hard (super slick) bouldering potential that probably has not been explor... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Grouse Slab : Corner On Gold (5.10c)
By: John Jackson When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: The route is listed as 40' tall in the North Tahoe guidebook.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Road Cut, The
By: John Jackson When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Wow, I drive by that twice a day every day. It will be interesting to see if they have to do significant modification to the cliff to stabilize it and get the road reopen.
Rockslide at Roadcut Area - Donner Pass
Rockslide at Roadcut Area - Donner Pass



Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Grouse Slab : Shake (5.10a)
By: John Jackson When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the info on this section of Grouse Wall: The route information in the North Tahoe guidebook was provided directly by the guys that did the first ascents on most of these routes (Gary Allan, John Hoffman, Jim Zellers) starting in the early 70s. (Friends I have known for over 30 years) The info for this route was provided to me, and reviewed, by John Hoffman, who probably knows the route history of Donner Summit better than anyone. He corrected the previously published mistaken informati... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : Trick Or Treat Wall : Twilight's Last Gleaming (5.11)
By: John Jackson When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: Sounds like that, very thin, key hold by the second bolt may have broken, which would be a shame since this is/was such a nice route for the grade. The crux was at the second bolt (.10a) and is/was only a tiny bit easier than the direct start mantle off of the knob. One of my favorite routes at Deep Creek, probably have climbed it more than a dozen times but not in a couple of years. Will check it out next time I am there; as I still have some unfinished projects at Deep Creek to get ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : Trick Or Treat Wall : Starlight, Starbright (5.8 R)
By: John Jackson When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: Brad,
Starlight,Starbright and Twilights Last Gleaming (another route that was done as the sun was setting) share the very top of the first pitch and the second two pitches, though the "original" finish exited left after the second pitch via easy 5th/4th class scrambling (the direct, 5.8 face, finish is much better) I just read your entry about "Twilight Lasts Gleaming" and will add a comment.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : Trick Or Treat Wall : Starlight, Starbright (5.8 R)
By: John Jackson When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: Glad to hear this wall is getting some ascents finally.
The description for this route is a bit off, if following the original line.

Hopefully this will help:
This climb is usually done as a three pitch route (though possible to rap 90' after the first pitch) with the third pitch being, far and away, the best climbing on the route. The first pitch traverses in at the height of the fourth bolt on "Twilights Last Gleaming" (Unless bolts have been added to that route) The route goes up, after t... more >>


Location: CA : Northeast California : Bald Rock : Bald Rock Picnic Area
By: John Jackson When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: This area is typically referred to as "Bald Rock Picnic Area". Not to be confused with the nearby (though hard to find without specific approach directions) impressive, Bald Rock Dome area. Bald Rock Dome is comparable to the domes in Tuolumne Meadows, with the upper section of the dome featuring sustained, unbroken steep granite slab climbing up to 700+ feet*. (*Much longer routes than 700' possible if you go all the way to the bottom to start, below the standard upper dome start, and link the ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Shirley Canyon Cliffs
By: John Jackson When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: One of the best granite crags in the North Tahoe area! As good as Snowshed Wall (probably better, imho, as it's taller) It was kept "under the radar" for many, many years, and only visited by climbers very rarely before the guidebook came out. Great climbing in a beautiful, semi "backcountry" like setting, with only a 50 minute approach.
All the route info can be found in the "LOCALS GUIDE to: Rock Climbs of North Tahoe" available at the camp4press.com website.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : The Babylon Crag : Box Tops (5.11b)
By: John Jackson When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Cool! Always thought someone would/should put a route up the middle of that slab, to the left of Proof of Purchase. I'm sure it will be a fun slab route, to add to the old 5.9 route there.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : River Rock
By: John Jackson When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: There are eleven routes detailed in the guidebook for the Upstream Crag and sixteen at the downstream crag by the suspension bridge (Locals Guide to: Rock Climbs Of North Tahoe)
You can get a copy at the camp4press.com website, or anywhere guidebooks are sold. As far as I know everything there has been done ground up in traditional style {no protection bolts as of a couple of years ago).


Location: CA : Northeast California
By: John Jackson When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: For the scoop on the climbing in Northeast California check out the new "LOCALS GUIDE to: ROCK CLIMBS OF NORTHEAST CALIfORNIA" Dozens of new crags and great climbing in uncrowded settings, with plenty of further exploration to be had. Check out the info here: camp4press.com


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: John Jackson When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Johnny Woodward led this route ground up, reported to be without bolts, for the first ascent. He was strongly opposed to adding bolts to this, runout, route. Fortunately/unfortunately the only place where it was possible to get some pro in, sketchy and way up the route, fell off (and became a safer route). Subsequently the whole route was retro bolted and renamed from Totem Pile to Totem Pole.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Grouse Slab : Shake (5.10a)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: The route described is not "Light Headed" but is the route between "Light Headed" and "Greener Pastures" (See the North Tahoe Guidebook) this route is "Shake".


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : The Arena : Berry Jerry (5.9+)
By: John Jackson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: "Berry Jerry"-The Baskin Robins ice cream flavor named after Jerry Garcia (Greatful Dead Founder) Route first done August 13th, 1995, the day they put Jerry Garcia to rest. Craig, a huge "Deadhead" fan, and I were remembering his music that day....Fa Craig Martin & John Jackson btw


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Snowshed Wall : Pump Lust (5.13b)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: On gear from what I was told, though it was third hand and I didn't confirm it directly with the first ascentionist. A proud line on gear!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : Center Wall : Mud Shark (5.13c)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: ^^^^^^ So, did you send it? Would assume you did if you're posting about it. Some first hand beta would be appreciated. I belayed one of my old climbing partners, Joe Missick, the guy that did the fa, a couple of times when he was working it but missed the red point. Saw Joe do it a couple of times with one or two hangs before he redpointed it, but never saw anyone send it. Would be suprised if it ever has an onsite send, so sequential.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Snowshed Wall : Pump Lust (5.13b)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: First ascent, which was done without bolts, was Harrison Decker 1987 (Doubt anyone else would have done it previous to that) Retro bolted early 90s, with fa party permission.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Tunnel Slab : Unknown 5.7 (5.9)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 14, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, I appreciate the support. Like I indicated above I thought MP is an appropiate place for the type of post you made (it contained new info, about being cleaned up, and opened a discusion on the rating) I only responded because the reference to left vs right were switched in the posted photo, and felt I should mention that it was incorrect.

Part of the other comment, not directed at this post btw, probably was spurred by a very recent experience I had. A prospective guidebook author appr... more >>


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