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Member Since: Oct 29, 2007
Last Visit: Feb 9, 2015
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Point Rank: # 6,771
Total Points: 52
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 70 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 14 | Stars 11 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rockslide at Roadcut Area - Donner Pass

Rockslide at Roadcut Area - Donner Pass

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Comment

Feb 8, 2015

Climber on Bald Rock Dome. (Paul Bernard photo)

Climber on Bald Rock Dome. (Paul Bernard photo)

CA : Shasta Cascade : ... : Bald Rock Picnic Area

Sep 24, 2014

Bald Rock Dome can just be seen on the far left. T...

Bald Rock Dome can just be seen on the far left. The, much taller, wall in the middle only has one or two known routes to the top. Lots of unclimbed rock in these canyons.

CA : Shasta Cascade : ... : Bald Rock Picnic Area

Sep 24, 2014

The nearby Bald Rock Dome.

The nearby Bald Rock Dome.

CA : Shasta Cascade : ... : Bald Rock Picnic Area

Sep 24, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Road Cut, The
By: John Jackson When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Wow, I drive by that twice a day every day. It will be interesting to see if they have to do significant modification to the cliff to stabilize it and get the road reopen.
Rockslide at Roadcut Area - Donner Pass
Rockslide at Roadcut Area - Donner Pass



Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Grouse Slab : Shake (5.10a)
By: John Jackson When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the info on this section of Grouse Wall: The route information in the North Tahoe guidebook was provided directly by the guys that did the first ascents on most of these routes (Gary Allan, John Hoffman, Jim Zellers) starting in the early 70s. (Friends I have known for over 30 years) The info for this route was provided to me, and reviewed, by John Hoffman, who probably knows the route history of Donner Summit better than anyone. He corrected the previously published mistaken informati... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : Trick Or Treat Wall : Twilight's Last Gleaming (5.11)
By: John Jackson When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: Sounds like that, very thin, key hold by the second bolt may have broken, which would be a shame since this is/was such a nice route for the grade. The crux was at the second bolt (.10a) and is/was only a tiny bit easier than the direct start mantle off of the knob. One of my favorite routes at Deep Creek, probably have climbed it more than a dozen times but not in a couple of years. Will check it out next time I am there; as I still have some unfinished projects at Deep Creek to get ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : Trick Or Treat Wall : Starlight, Starbright (5.8 R)
By: John Jackson When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: Brad,
Starlight,Starbright and Twilights Last Gleaming (another route that was done as the sun was setting) share the very top of the first pitch and the second two pitches, though the "original" finish exited left after the second pitch via easy 5th/4th class scrambling (the direct, 5.8 face, finish is much better) I just read your entry about "Twilight Lasts Gleaming" and will add a comment.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : Trick Or Treat Wall : Starlight, Starbright (5.8 R)
By: John Jackson When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: Glad to hear this wall is getting some ascents finally.
The description for this route is a bit off, if following the original line.

Hopefully this will help:
This climb is usually done as a three pitch route (though possible to rap 90' after the first pitch) with the third pitch being, far and away, the best climbing on the route. The first pitch traverses in at the height of the fourth bolt on "Twilights Last Gleaming" (Unless bolts have been added to that route) The route goes up, after t... more >>


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : The Lost Sierra : Bald Rock Picnic Area
By: John Jackson When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: This area is typically referred to as "Bald Rock Picnic Area". Not to be confused with the nearby (though hard to find without specific approach directions) impressive, Bald Rock Dome area. Bald Rock Dome is comparable to the domes in Tuolumne Meadows, with the upper section of the dome featuring sustained, unbroken steep granite slab climbing up to 700+ feet*. (*Much longer routes than 700' possible if you go all the way to the bottom to start, below the standard upper dome start, and link the ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Shirley Canyon Cliffs
By: John Jackson When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: One of the best granite crags in the North Tahoe area! As good as Snowshed Wall (probably better, imho, as it's taller) It was kept "under the radar" for many, many years, and only visited by climbers very rarely before the guidebook came out. Great climbing in a beautiful, semi "backcountry" like setting, with only a 50 minute approach.
All the route info can be found in the "LOCALS GUIDE to: Rock Climbs of North Tahoe" available at the camp4press.com website.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : The Babylon Crag : Box Tops (5.11b)
By: John Jackson When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Cool! Always thought someone would/should put a route up the middle of that slab, to the left of Proof of Purchase. I'm sure it will be a fun slab route, to add to the old 5.9 route there.


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock
By: John Jackson When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: There are eleven routes detailed in the guidebook for the Upstream Crag and sixteen at the downstream crag by the suspension bridge (Locals Guide to: Rock Climbs Of North Tahoe)
You can get a copy at the camp4press.com website, or anywhere guidebooks are sold. As far as I know everything there has been done ground up in traditional style {no protection bolts as of a couple of years ago).


Location: CA : Shasta Cascade
By: John Jackson When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: For the scoop on the climbing in Northeast California check out the new "LOCALS GUIDE to: ROCK CLIMBS OF NORTHEAST CALIfORNIA" Dozens of new crags and great climbing in uncrowded settings, with plenty of further exploration to be had. Check out the info here: camp4press.com


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: John Jackson When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Johnny Woodward led this route ground up, reported to be without bolts, for the first ascent. He was strongly opposed to adding bolts to this, runout, route. Fortunately/unfortunately the only place where it was possible to get some pro in, sketchy and way up the route, fell off (and became a safer route). Subsequently the whole route was retro bolted and renamed from Totem Pile to Totem Pole.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Grouse Slab : Shake (5.10a)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: The route described is not "Light Headed" but is the route between "Light Headed" and "Greener Pastures" (See the North Tahoe Guidebook) this route is "Shake".


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Deep Creek Crags : The Arena : Berry Jerry (5.9+)
By: John Jackson When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: "Berry Jerry"-The Baskin Robins ice cream flavor named after Jerry Garcia (Greatful Dead Founder) Route first done August 13th, 1995, the day they put Jerry Garcia to rest. Craig, a huge "Deadhead" fan, and I were remembering his music that day....Fa Craig Martin & John Jackson btw


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Snowshed Wall : Pump Lust (5.13b)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: On gear from what I was told, though it was third hand and I didn't confirm it directly with the first ascentionist. A proud line on gear!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : Center Wall : Mud Shark (5.13c)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: ^^^^^^ So, did you send it? Would assume you did if you're posting about it. Some first hand beta would be appreciated. I belayed one of my old climbing partners, Joe Missick, the guy that did the fa, a couple of times when he was working it but missed the red point. Saw Joe do it a couple of times with one or two hangs before he redpointed it, but never saw anyone send it. Would be suprised if it ever has an onsite send, so sequential.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Snowshed Wall : Pump Lust (5.13b)
By: John Jackson When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: First ascent, which was done without bolts, was Harrison Decker 1987 (Doubt anyone else would have done it previous to that) Retro bolted early 90s, with fa party permission.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Tunnel Slab : Unknown 5.7 (5.9)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, I appreciate the support. Like I indicated above I thought MP is an appropiate place for the type of post you made (it contained new info, about being cleaned up, and opened a discusion on the rating) I only responded because the reference to left vs right were switched in the posted photo, and felt I should mention that it was incorrect.

Part of the other comment, not directed at this post btw, probably was spurred by a very recent experience I had. A prospective guidebook author appr... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Tunnel Slab : Unknown 5.7 (5.9)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: ^^^^^^ No offense. Posting up about having cleaned up a previously mungy, obscure route and giving a different opinion about the published rating of a route is the perfect use for the Mountain Project site. Posting up new/updated (or discussing ratings) is a good servive to the climbing commmunity. Posting up info that is available in a guidebook is not imo.

It is important for climbers to realize that Mountain Project, for all it's good intentions, has destroyed the possibility for producing... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Tunnel Slab : Unknown 5.7 (5.9)
By: John Jackson When: Aug 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The description of the photo is not correct, unfortunately. (EDIT: It is correct now)

Route #21 at "Tunnel Slab" in the North Tahoe guidebook is not on the left side of this photo as described above. Route #19 goes up the, crackless, slab just left of center. Route #20 goes up the crack system to the right of that and route #18 is the route visible in the left of this photo.(Steeper and trickier than it looks) Route #21 is a very obvious, heavily, left slanting cra... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit
By: John Jackson When: Jul 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Rams;

If you want the comprehensive guidebook for the North Tahoe region:

The new LOCALS GUIDE to North Tahoe has all 1,300 of the known routes in the North Tahoe-Donner-Reno region with full color overlays of almost every route. Included are seven hundred routes not documented in the other guidebooks listed, as well as a detailed history of climbing in the region.

More info here: camp4press.com


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Black Wall : On Ramp (5.8)
By: John Jackson When: Jul 12, 2012

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Comments: ^^^^^ Glad you found the new North Tahoe guidebook more followable on this route than the old Falcon guide. :)

Most parties do top out on this, 3-4 pitch, popular route, and each pitch is equally enjoyable on good rock. (Though the second pitch is often wet in the spring) The route does not go to the anchors on the new route "Rat Ramp" though it is an option if going to top rope "Rat Ramp". This was actually my very first multi-pitch route, many, many years ago and have done it at least a dozen... more >>


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