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Member Since: Aug 28, 2002
Last Visit: Mar 20, 2014
Contact John J. Glime


Point Rank: # 482
Total Points: 1,303
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
166 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John J. Glime been climbing?










Contributions


All 1256 | Routes 35 | Areas 17 | Photos 112 | Page Improvements | Comments 138 | Posts 883 | Stars 67 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Death Of American Democracy (5.10 A4 X) : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: Bravo...


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Eagle Canyon : Eagle Canyon, Head Of Sinba... : Mother Goose- Nursery Rhyme... (5.6)
By: John J. Glime When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: I recently saw a photo of the Swasey brothers? standing on top of this thing. Keen, they only beat you to the first ascent by a hundred years or so!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Pointy Tower : The Original Route (5.9 C1+)
By: John J. Glime When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: This is a really nice tower. We thought we were going to be the first to climb it... on the approach, that beautiful crack really stood out. We were psyched. We got to the base, took a drink and a piss, looked around a little more... and "doh" we saw a bolt. Buzz kill.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Pointy Tower : The Original Route (5.9 C1+) : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: A great portrait of a man on his LAST tower... RIP Ian!

(no, he isn't dead.)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Pointy Tower : The Original Route (5.9 C1+) : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: I love this picture. When you see a crack like that (that just keeps going and going) you have to smile. If I remember correctly, the crack that you see in this picture is about 80 percent of the route... it's a beauty.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Plumb Tower : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Mar 8, 2009

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Comments: Holy crap, look at that pointy, pointy tower! We should go climb that thing... I bet it hasn't been climbed. :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Plumb Tower : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Mar 8, 2009

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Comments: It has a summit cave?! How cool is that! I guess we know where the summit register is...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : The Great White Icicle (WI3)
By: John J. Glime When: Jan 24, 2009

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Comments: FYI, For those new to the climb, the "3 pitches" description is a bit misleading. For example, the last time I climbed it, I did it in 6 pitches. I think 4 is common. It depends if you want to use all of the fixed anchors. Or if you want to build anchors, etc. Either way, this route has a totally 'casual' reputation, which is deserving... but you should still take it seriously. Depending on conditions, it can turn into a nasty alpine affair. It can bite you.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Ice Falls : ... : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Jan 24, 2009

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Comments: I know that feeling...


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Swaseyland : Maura's Tower - Join the Pa... (5.10 C0)
By: John J. Glime When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Sorry for any confusion Andrew. When you were on 'A walk' the big drop on the right side is sort of like a little valley. Maura's Tower is in the back of that 'valley.' I got excited about Maura's tower when we climbed 'A walk.' It is pretty visible from the top I think. Depending on the lighting, Maura's was probably blending into rim rock. Just continue down the road past 'A walk' and when it opens up on the left, Maura's is back in there.

Hey Ben, it has been too long since we last c... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Swaseyland : A walk on the Swasey Side (5.6)
By: John J. Glime When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Sorry 'bout that... Ross would have called it 5.3, so I was feeling conflicted. :)

I guess it is 5.7ish, and it is just spicy enough to be fun! Atleast I thought it was fun...


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Head of Sinbad South : Jacks' Tower- Pair of Jacks (5.8)
By: John J. Glime When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Andrew.

Two comments about this route.

On the FA, I was up on the face in the area of the bolts when a few cowboys rode past on their horses. They meandered below me (basically right below me), I stopped all movement and they had no idea I was there. I watched them continue on their way, and then I continued my way.

Second, both of my grandfathers' names were Jack, and they are both gone from the Earth. For whatever reason, on that day, alone in the desert (well except for the cowbo... more >>


Location: John J. Glime : climbing : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Oct 11, 2008

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Comments: "I'm braver than any girl!" Lol. Ride the rainbow...

But yeah, you so crazy!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : I Crags (Uneva Canyon) : ... : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Sep 23, 2008

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Comments: To 'see' the second half of the route, click on this photo to enlarge it. Nice photoshop skills Paul!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyo... : Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 (5.6)
By: John J. Glime When: Sep 23, 2008

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Comments: This route ended too soon. It was suppose to keep following the ridge to the top, but we ran into a big sandstone crevasse. The last pitch puts you on the top of Super Crack of the Reef. You can set up a top rope, or just admire that beautiful crack.

Don't mind the first few shitty bolts on this route, they're solid, enough! That's what happens when you forget the blow tube in the truck.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : I Crags (Uneva Canyon) : After Thought. II (5.7)
By: John J. Glime When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: Fun climb! Good pro, nice exposure. Take a good look at "Forget me Not" across the canyon, another beautiful line. "Forget me Not" and "After Thought" would be a good 1-2 punch as an introduction to Reef climbing.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : M Crags : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: John J. Glime When: Aug 23, 2008

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Comments: Note to anyone... the slabs on the reef are slabs. If you 'fall' 100 feet on a 5.6 you are more often than not going to 'slide' 100 feet. I mean, they are kind of like X climbs, but you'd need to be a semi-shitty slider to end up dead. Above 5.6 Paul places bolts anywhere and almost everywhere it gets spicy. As in, the few moves that are hard get some bolts, then when it gets 5.6 or easier the bolts go away again. Climbing on the reef isn't as scary as some would make it sound, but it does ... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : The Weasel Formation : Horus Tower (5.8 C1)
By: John J. Glime When: Jun 19, 2008

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Comments: Actually a very fun route. You won't be disappointed.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : The Academy : Alternative Education (5.8 PG13)
By: John J. Glime When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: I luv 13 pitch 150 foot routes... I hope all of the belays have bolts?


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : M Crags : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: John J. Glime When: Apr 24, 2008

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Comments: Brian,
If I may make a comment about protecting "unprotectable" cruxes. The cruxes are almost always protected.

To answer your question about adding bolts. No, that is not okay. Would Paul give his blessing? Well maybe to you because you are a rock legend. However, if you wait awhile, he'll eventually die of old age... maybe. Then he probably won't care what you do to his routes.

I know some people who have climbed on the reef and simply don't enjoy the type of climbing that you menti... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : I Crags (Uneva Canyon) : ... : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Apr 24, 2008

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Comments: It is what it is...

Paul doesn't even know what photoshop means.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Whatever Happens...Happens ... (5.9) : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Apr 13, 2008

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Comments: Does anyone know what the route is out on the face to the left that leads to the top of the sunlighted "pillar" on the upper left skyline? It is runout, but relatively easy and fun.


Location: CO : Alex Honnold Free Solos Moo...
By: John J. Glime When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: Respectfully, I don't agree at all with what Peter wrote.

My first thought is that most people don't know that much about Moonlight, thus they don't realize what is involved.
My second thought is that while it is a gigantic step in rock climbing, especially in the U.S. It is not in the "unheard of" arena. I am trying to remember how hard that Dolomite solo was by Huber a few years ago.

Plus, the solos of the Eiger, and other climbs in Europe and the big mountains are pretty damn incredible. ... more >>


Location: CO : Alex Honnold Free Solos Moo...
By: John J. Glime When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswi...

If you put a ladder up the route, I don't think I would free solo it.

Alex's ascent is mind blowing...


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Ghost Ranch : King Rudi : ... : Photo
By: John J. Glime When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: C0 never looked so beautiful.


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