Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jul 27, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact John Gassel


Point Rank: # 4,069
Total Points: 102
Last Year: 79
Last 30 Days: 5
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Gassel been climbing?










Contributions


All 268 | Routes | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 17 | Posts 7 | Stars 124 | Ratings 103

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Pearly Gates : Milky Way (5.10-)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As of 6/29/14 the first bolt has no hanger on it.

This was probably done intentionally by someone as there is plenty of gear to be had in the dihedral. Bring a piece or two for this section as this is the ~.10b crux of the route.

The 15' traverse left is pretty easy (~5.7). After that it's sustained, fun 5.9 for the rest of the pitch.

Second pitch is definitely worth doing. Slightly easier than the first and not as heady.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: We lost about an hour on the approach to this so I figured I'd share what we learned (on the way out!).

The climbers trail off the hiking trail is not totally obvious. There were a lot of things that could be a trail or could just be some rocks. We ended up passing about 1/4 mile too far and found a great tree spanning the river to cross. This put us in the middle of a long bushwhack though.

The trail really is DIRECTLY ACROSS from the route. Where you descend off the hiking trail is a lit... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Tang (5.10d)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I couldn't agree with the description more on this one. I can't pinpoint exactly what it was about this route, but it definitely had me sweating a few of the moves. They weren't run out or anything, but they were just tough enough that it always felt kind of committing.

My lead took a while - having to convince myself to make some of the moves. My second cruised up, questioning my concern and affirming the route isn't that hard.

It was good enough that I want to get back on it next time... more >>


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Short Order (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A fun climb with committing moves. Not sure why but I wasn't expecting the crux of this to be slabby. Don't make that same mistake.

There are 5.9 slab moves encountered at the first two bolts on P2 of this route (midway up) on the rounded arete, one of them with a ledge just below you once you commit. It's got a heady feel to it.

Beware rope drag if you link pitches together. I linked with P1 of Avenger and had enough rope with 60m doubles - barely.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Avenger (5.9 R)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I did the first pitch of this en route to Short Order thinking it might reduce the rope drag since it was a little more direct. After doing this I'd have to recommend an intermediate belay. There was enough rope to reach the top tree with this link-up, but it still felt quite heavy at the top even with most pieces extended.

The first pitch was kind of wet and pretty dirty when I did it, but I'd still recommend it. The moves were really fun. With the fiddly gear on this pitch, it doesn't fee... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is hard! I can't remember being so pumped before. That being said, the climbing is great. Crux is about midway through...or is it not pumping out before the chains? You decide.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Little T-Bone (5.9+)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Quality route! Not just one of those....oh I did this because I had my rack with me. Do this over most of the sport routes on the wall.

Bomber #2 cam in the roof crack to start that you place at a good stance. That's probably the crux, but the rest of the climbing is engaging throughout.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Edge-a-Sketch (5.11b)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Most fun route on this section of cliff that I did, especially the start. Great for early 11 leaders. It's soft. Just stick clip it and give it a go.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Buccaneer (5.11c)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Decent climb. Didn't enjoy this as much as Edge-a-sketch right next to it. It also felt more than 1 grade harder than its neighbor.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Crossroads : October Sky (5.11c)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fooled myself into thinking I had done the crux but there is a tricky 11- section a bolt or so below the real crux of the route. For me it was a big move to a jug just above the clip. Took a solid whip on the move the first time. Super fun face climbing!

The bottom 1/2 of the route was in the shade, top part was cooking in the sun when we did it late morning in May.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Crossroads : Banjolero (5.10c)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This was an awesome route! Get on it if you're in the area. A few friends that did the route with me felt it was a bit heady around the last bolt or two - I just thought it got a bit pumpy. :)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Hideout : Pre-emptive Strike (5.10c)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The top looks like it might be tough, but the jugs are too good!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Hideout : Boltergeist (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was a great route. It's long, interesting throughout, and has a good view from the top-out. You can get down with a 60m no problem.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: John Gassel When: Nov 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! Highly recommend doing this if you're solid at the grade, as it's pretty sustained.

Climbed it without the tree and didn't find those moves harder than other stuff on the route. Also didn't use any gear and didn't feel I would have even if I had some as the short run-outs were on easier ground as others have said.

As a climber from the northeast with a good deal of Gunks experience, I'd say the roof is no 10+. It's easier than Modern Times. ;) Feels like a 9 or 10a... more >>


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Indigenous Wall : Toltec Dream (5.7)
By: John Gassel When: Nov 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The flake/dike system at the top of this route is definitely the highlight. Pretty fun climbing throughout though.

There is a hard to see new pin near the top of the lower slab. I suggest clipping it because the start of the traverse can be deceivingly slippery.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 1, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Just did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. My new favorite 5.5's at the Gunks. I linked pitches together on doubles and had no issues with rope drag. Makes an awesome ~180ft pitch.

Felt that the first pitch crux as very tough for the grade. Gear placement mid-crux is tricky, best to just push through it, so 5.5ish leaders beware.

Second pitch has some large wobbly blocks.


Location: MA : Rose Ledge : Rhino Dyno aka The Lunge (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: There are now some bolts for top rope anchors. They sit back pretty far from the edge so plan on using a static line or some long webbing.