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Member Since: Jul 27, 2011
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact John Gassel


Point Rank: # 3,811
Total Points: 116
Last Year: 93
Last 30 Days: 18
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Gassel been climbing?










Contributions


All 321 | Routes | Areas | Photos 19 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 6 | Stars 148 | Ratings 127
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Way out there.

Way out there.

NY : The Gunks : ... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)

Oct 6, 2014

Wow!  Wild, exposed roof!

Wow! Wild, exposed roof!

NY : The Gunks : ... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)

Oct 6, 2014

Climber getting ready to step out onto The Arete on a hot fall day with some foliage starting to show.

Climber getting ready to step out onto The Arete on a hot fall day with some foliage starting to show.

NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : ... : The Arete (5.8+)

Oct 1, 2014

First roof on missing link.

First roof on missing link.

NH : Cathedral Ledge : ... : Missing Link (5.10a)

Jul 24, 2014

Tom somewhere around the crux of the route.  Note the belay rope.  It's vertical from the chains, hence the surprising overhang of the route.

Tom somewhere around the crux of the route. Note the belay rope. It's vertical from the chains, hence the surprising overhang of the route.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)

Jun 11, 2014

Tom on the slopey early section of the route.

Tom on the slopey early section of the route.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)

Jun 11, 2014

Me on lead nearing the top.  My arms were so gone at this point!

Me on lead nearing the top. My arms were so gone at this point!

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Bangers and Mash (5.11c)

Jun 11, 2014

Beth checking her feet as she nears the chains.

Beth checking her feet as she nears the chains.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : La Escalada (5.6)

Jun 11, 2014

Tom about to get into the juggy (super fun) top section of the climb.

Tom about to get into the juggy (super fun) top section of the climb.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Pre-emptive Strike (5.10c)

Jun 11, 2014

Alissa working her way up the steep jugs.  Great route!

Alissa working her way up the steep jugs. Great route!

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Banjolero (5.10c)

Jun 11, 2014

Tom nearing the top of this awesome juggy section!

Tom nearing the top of this awesome juggy section!

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Banjolero (5.10c)

Jun 11, 2014

Emmett in the upper section of the route just below the slabby top-out at the end of a great day in May.  View from Pre-emptive Strike.

Emmett in the upper section of the route just below the slabby top-out at the end of a great day in May. View from Pre-emptive Strike.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Boltergeist (5.10b)

Jun 4, 2014

Looking down at the middle of the route.  View from Pre-emptive Strike.

Looking down at the middle of the route. View from Pre-emptive Strike.

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Boltergeist (5.10b)

Jun 4, 2014

In early March without much ice on the route.

In early March without much ice on the route.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Clark? (WI4 M6)

Mar 6, 2014

Led with no one else around, very fun route in a great setting.

Led with no one else around, very fun route in a great setting.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Pick o' the Vic (WI4)

Mar 6, 2014

It looks like the Peace Dove got a makeover at some point within the last few weeks.

It looks like the Peace Dove got a makeover at some point within the last few weeks.

Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : ... : Peace Dove (V2+)

Sep 13, 2012

Pulling the crux roof.

Pulling the crux roof.

MA : Rose Ledge : Rhino Dyno aka The Lunge (5.10a)

Aug 13, 2012

The Fairy Tale Traverse variation of the last pitch - a must do!

The Fairy Tale Traverse variation of the last pitch - a must do!

NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Northeast Ridge of the Pinn... (5.7)

Aug 7, 2012

The rhino!

The rhino!

MA : Rose Ledge : Rhino Dyno aka The Lunge (5.10a)

Sep 21, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : The Arete (5.8+) : Photo
By: John Gassel When: Oct 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks! This view is from the P1 anchor of Locals Only for those looking to get this view of others on the Arete.


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Rampage (5.10c)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This felt really sandbagged for the guidebook grade of 5.10b!

I tried hard to find a way to do this statically but couldn't manage (I'm 5'11"). Ended up doing an all points off dyno and locking off with one hand. Crazy! The mantle is just has hard as the roof.

I wouldn't hesitate to call this 5.11, even by NH trad grades. But the chain is right there, so don't hesitate to get on this and give it a go. It feels sporty.


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : Locals Only (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I found the first pitch of this to be quite good.

Nice slab moves at the beginning and end of the pitch. There was a sweet flake and fun roof problem as well. It's possible (although a bit reachy) to pull the roof right at the bolt.

My only complaint from this being a classic pitch is the dirty scramble on the tree ledge after the initial slab. There is also some suspect rock in this section just below the roof, although it's easily avoided.

Can't comment on the second pitch as I've only d... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Lancelot Link/ Secret Chimp (5.10- PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good route description for this climb. I kept looking for a technical way to do the crux and eventually gave into a dynamic move. The route is good, but I prefer Missing Link a little bit more. The second crux is more technical and the climbing less dirty above it. However, this variation will keep you away from Thin Air if there are crowds so that can be a bonus.

Just want to clarify a bit on what to expect above the second bolt. It doesn't just turn into 5.7R-ish climbing right away as t... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Pearly Gates : Milky Way (5.10-)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As of 6/29/14 the first bolt has no hanger on it.

This was probably done intentionally by someone as there is plenty of gear to be had in the dihedral. Bring a piece or two for this section as this is the ~.10b crux of the route.

The 15' traverse left is pretty easy (~5.7). After that it's sustained, fun 5.9 for the rest of the pitch.

Second pitch is definitely worth doing. Slightly easier than the first and not as heady.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: We lost about an hour on the approach to this so I figured I'd share what we learned (on the way out!).

The climbers trail off the hiking trail is not totally obvious. There were a lot of things that could be a trail or could just be some rocks. We ended up passing about 1/4 mile too far and found a great tree spanning the river to cross. This put us in the middle of a long bushwhack though.

The trail really is DIRECTLY ACROSS from the route. Where you descend off the hiking trail is a lit... more >>


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