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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : The Mantle of the Leprechau... (5.10a/b PG13)
By: John D When: May 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route today and it was really fun, but the anchors aren't looking so great. For one the rap rings are pretty worn, though someone added quicklinks to use instead. Also, the left bolt in the anchor had some rock break off near it and now has only like half an inch of rock between it and the fracture. I still rapped off them, but I was gentle and nervous.
Anybody else seen these anchors recently? Anybody know the process necessary to get permission to replace them?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Falls (WI2-3)
By: John D When: Dec 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody been up here lately? Has anything formed?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: John D When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone tried this route in winter? I'm kind of tempted to give it a shot once we get some snow and ice.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : Re-Thinking the Ethics (5.10a)
By: John D When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any thoughts on whether or not this route would go on gear? I've been eyeing it for a couple of months now but haven't gotten around to getting on it.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: John D When: Nov 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bit of a Public Service Announcement I came back to the second parking lot today with my partner to find that someone had tried to steal his catalytic converter off his truck. The thieves were unsuccessful only because he had taken preventative measures, though they did still royally jack up his truck. Definitely lock your doors, and it might not be a bad idea to park in the first lot where your car will be a bit more visible from the road.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: John D When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite way to do Snake Dike:
Gear
lightest 60m Rope you can get your hands on, a 50m might even work and be lighter.
6 single length slings/trad draws
2 double length slings
4 locking D biners
2 Locking HMS type biners
Red and brown tri-cam
black metolious 4 cam
green metolious 4 cam
Harnesses or webbing for a swiss seat.
Steri-pen
I start the hike around 5am with 3 water bottles, but only 2 filled (for both of us) at the top of the second water fall (nevada falls?) drink up and leave with... more >>
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Stranger Than Friction (5.10b PG13)
By: John D When: Sep 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The mantle's on this route were super fun, but I'd hate to blow them, you'll go for a ride. Also it can be done as one pitch, I got a little lost after I finished the first pitch, so I clipped one of the anchor bolts and kept hiking. Probably easier to do it in one pitch, gives you less time to think about the super run out 5.7 slab ahead. You can protect the last move or two to the second pitch anchors. I think it's about a green camalot size but can't remember for sure.
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Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff : Zebra (5.8+)
By: John D When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI. I was on this route today and around the 6th bolt I think (3 or 4 bolts from the top) there's a big, loose block. It's not totally detached, but it spooked me enough to get away from it, also if it were to come off, it'd go straight onto the belayer.
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Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Swan Mountain Road
By: John D When: Apr 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went to this crag for the first time today. It was great, I worked in the traverse area for a while and really enjoyed it. There was some trash around, but not too much. I'll definitely be going back to work more problems and check out the 5.6 TR area.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice
By: John D When: Feb 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone been to Clear Creek lately? Know if there's any ice there?
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs : Photo
By: John D When: Nov 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: your labels aren't quite right, they should be
1) the tree route
2) Nike route
3) The Dihedral
4) Great Expectations
5) I'm not sure
6) Water Streak
7) Buns up
8) nigger leap
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