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Alternate 5.7 route to the left of the chimney, the so-called 'glory arete'. The chimney had a traffic jam this day, so we followed a yosar'ers advice. Beautiful pitch, fantastic exposure!


Member Since: Sep 27, 2009
Last Visit: May 16, 2013
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Point Rank: # 6,182
Total Points: 38
Last Year: 23
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Johan

 
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All (209) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (3) | Posts | Stars (180) | Ratings (22)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Overhanging Layback (5.7)
By: Johan When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I recently got a rope stuck on the rappel off of this route, at the notch right at the top lip. I noticed that a previous tick here on MP says the same happened to them. So: be mindful of your rope flossing that notch. It's definitely best to bring the knot down with you past the lip. Double 60m ropes will still get you down to the ground even if you bring the knot down past the lip in this way.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Johan When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Top-roping non-beta: the Rocinha anchor can not be used to TR Soweto, this would invite huge dangerous pendulums.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Johan When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Bailing beta: My partner are I started up this early on August 4th, but rain and thunder were moving in when we were on pitch 7 of the Supertopo 50 crowded variation, and while waiting at the piton belay at the start of pitch 8. From our position we were blind to the approaching weather from behind MC, and with the rock soaked (the rain having moved beyond a smattering), the thunder giving us the willies, and the prospect of a hairy descent down the back of MC (which would be our first time doin... more >>