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Member Since: Jan 5, 2008
Last Visit: 42 mins ago
Contact JoeS


Point Rank: # 3,063
Total Points: 158
Last Year: 126
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has JoeS been climbing?










Contributions


All 148 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 30 | Stars 62 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Over and Back (5.11b)
By: JoeS When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: The loose nut at bolt #1 has been loctited and tightened with a wrench.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Over and Back (5.11b)
By: JoeS When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Greg. I don't know how this happened, but I'll try to get out there and loctite that bolt. I'll post it when it happens.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Chiquito pero Picon (5.12a)
By: JoeS When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This one is challenging. Like a 25' boulder problem. May be hard to rate as a route. Will seem easier for those who boulder a lot and very difficult for those who don't.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 7 - Celebrity Cave : Suzanne Somers: A Love Stor... (5.14b)
By: JoeS When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: This climb has challenged many good climbers for quite a while. Alex, great job to persist and succeed. Brilliant!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : South Rib (5.11)
By: JoeS When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Joe Kreidel and I did this route and as John mentioned couldn't find anchors. It felt harder than 11 to me. It had a hard, short, and crimpy start. The climbing above was interesting, but more like 12a in my opinion. Would be a pretty good route with anchors. Are they there and we couldn't find them?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Journey to Ixtlan (5.11+)
By: JoeS When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: A very interesting climb with a variety of different types of climbing. Might be a 4 star if not for the rock quality on the top section (which if you can ignore provides super fun moves).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : The Eagle's Gift (5.11c/d)
By: JoeS When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: This one is really good! climbing is interesting and quite varied. Crux seemed to be hard 11, but it took a while to find the needed hold, so maybe just mid 11 on redpoint. A strong 3 stars for this one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Fin Arete (5.10+)
By: JoeS When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: crux seemed to be 10+ or 11-, but just a short section. Most of the climb was significantly easier but really fun climbing.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : The Sampler (5.12d)
By: JoeS When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: IMHO this is probably the best pure arÍte on the mountain and quite possibly one of the best anywhere. Continuously interesting moves on both sides of the arÍte.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: JoeS When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: I really appreciate Alex's statement "doing a hard project has a lot to do with hard work and overcoming doubt". Well put and congratulations!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Ireland
By: JoeS When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Dom and Anders,
Was out at Ireland yesterday for the first time. The routes were great. Thanks for the fun.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Glenn's Route (5.12-)
By: JoeS When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Really good route, but probably not the best at the steep. I suspect John would now agree that "Stepping into Blue Sky" is better (****). I also believe that several other routes at the Steep are of similar great quality to this route (Spiderman, Cres-sent, George of the Jungle, Two Birds).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Photo
By: JoeS When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: Doug you need to dress in flashier clothes. Do you still have your old lycra?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : ... : Gringo en Quema (5.11b)
By: JoeS When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: Actually I believe that Tony Lusk did the first ascent of this route. As he told it to me, he stole the red-tagged route while Strassman was in Europe, hence the name. Afterwards he was sorry that he had done that.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Bunkweed (5.10a)
By: JoeS When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: John,
Glen Todd did the FA on this with Tony belaying him. Route is fun after first 2 bolts, each of which should be one foot higher in order to make the route safer and more fun through the crumbly rock section.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions : Wasp (5.9 PG13)
By: JoeS When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: Steve,
I just noticed that you had posted this route today when I clicked on a photo of New Diversions. I still remember doing this route with you way back in the day. A good climb and I definitely recall that the nature of the climbing keeps one focused.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: JoeS When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: Geir rocks!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Dwarf Toss (5.12c)
By: JoeS When: Jun 26, 2010

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Comments: Good going Ian! I believe that you are the tallest person to successfully pull the "dwarf toss". The interesting appearance of the overlaps is what attracted me to bolt the route. Although rather short in length, it probably warrants 3 stars.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : Skillsaw Crag
By: JoeS When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: maybe John's (assumed to be facetious) offer to restore the apparently 2 suspect holds to there original state will be considered a step in the right direction by some, but not be me.

The argument is best approached by direct comparison of the route as it stands now with the route after the the holds in question get back-filled with epoxy putty (or equivalent).

As it now stands the community has access to a very excellent route when judged solely on how fun the climbing is. It also has a route... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : Skillsaw Crag
By: JoeS When: May 25, 2010

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Comments: Jim,

While I understand your concern for chipping, I believe your description of this route to be way off the mark. First I believe that the route has only one chipped hold, without which the route would be something like 5.11+ plus one move of between 5.14 and impossible. Most of what John did was removing and reinforcing several death blocks from the bottom section.

Like you, I don't like chipping, but if John had not chipped the one hold in this completely blank section, there wouldn't be a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Beach : Blood Meridian (5.12+)
By: JoeS When: May 8, 2010

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Comments: Although rarely done, this route is very good. Dan Lucas says it's the best route at the beach.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Skill Saw Crack (5.11)
By: JoeS When: May 4, 2010

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Comments: Two stars??? John you got to be kidding. Short and painful. Worse than a root canal.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: JoeS When: Feb 22, 2010

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Comments: Gotta have some mo spandex!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Northern Tights (5.12b/c)
By: JoeS When: Feb 13, 2010

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Comments: Eric,

Congrats. Good route, good send!

Joe


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Jailbreak (5.12)
By: JoeS When: Feb 13, 2010

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Comments: Thanks Eric for pointing out that the fellow who had bolted the route, namely me, is still interested in getting the FA.

This has gotten embarrassing. Although it is a good route, I sometime wish I hadn't bolted it. I keep getting close (1 fall numerous times and not all at the same place) and then the weather changes or I can't find a belayer, and then many months go by. On top of that Prison Camp is so popular and crowded. Not a great place to work a grade that is hard for you. Many times to... more >>


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