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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Mary's Tricks (5.11-)
By: joell When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fantastic short route. Great moves at the crux come after the 2nd bolt then it backs off a good bit. Above the crux it's all big solid jugs, but don't be lulled as it is sustaining and can still pump you up finishing it out.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Altered Boy (5.7)
By: joell When: Aug 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Altered Boy is a straight forward 5.7. It will be a nice warm-up climb for the other routes on the Chapel. It would also be a good route for a new sport leader.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Cloister Frock (5.9)
By: joell When: Aug 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route that is tucked away so not visible unless you know to look for it. We met Errett & Bill (the guys who put the route up) and they pointed it out, else we'd never have noticed it. To find it, stand at the base of "Going to the Chapel" and look up the gully to your left. There is a huge rock chocked about 6 feet above the bottom rock in the constriction. The bolts are on your right (same rock as Going to the Chapel) just before these large rocks.
The 5.9 portion only runs f... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Joint Venture (5.8)
By: joell When: Jun 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd concern with the 5.9 rating moving over the bulge near the top. A short route that works for a good warm up.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Little Toe Jam (5.11a)
By: joell When: Jun 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although this route is very short, it's still enjoyable. A few fun moves lead to the thin fingers crux then it mellows out.
Also a good way to get a top rope up over Pockets Full of Cryptonite if so desired.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Unknown V (5.11a)
By: joell When: Jun 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although this route does cross that "questionable" line, it is still quite fun. It is sustained 5.10c/d until the crux, then a good 5.11a crux move. It does mellow after the crux.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Andrology (5.11d)
By: joell When: Jun 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts on the top can be used for setting up a top rope, but bring lots of extension. I used a 20' cordellette (spread to 3 bolts) plus 4' sling to get the rope over the edge.
This route is long, impressive, and quite pumpy.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Big Ass Slab? : Critical Morass (5.10d)
By: joell When: Jun 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor seems OK as of 6/23/05. Not fantastic, but fine. The bolts are a touch loose, so the hangers can move a little (I'd rather they were tight), but they seemed safe to us. We used them without concern.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Malign (5.7)
By: joell When: Jun 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a solid and sustained 5.7. The key is it is sustained. I had a friend who climbs 5.7 but rarely makes 5.8 that went up it quick and easy. I'll use that as a good [gauge] on the rating. Lots of varied moves make it fun.
It is quite long for a Happy Hour climb. Previous posting noted setting the anchor in the block above Nightcap. Instead I went left at that block and set the anchor off the tree (looks dead at first glance but is very much alive) and a few pieces to back it up. Yo... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Cedar Park Slab : Whetstone (5.7)
By: joell When: May 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route. I found this one to be about the same grade as Dags. Instead of climbing pitch 1 of Dags, we went up pitch 1 of Crack Slabbeth direct to the two-bolt anchor. A bit runout, but goes just fine. The roof moves are different than those on Dags, so could be easier or harder dependant on how tall the climber is and what types of moves you like.
We climbed to the top set of bolt anchors, then rap'd back down instead of doing the walk off. There is a sling and rings on the tree halfway b... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Cedar Park Slab : Dags in Beanland (5.8)
By: joell When: May 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route but be prepared for some runout.Mike's suggestion to make it go in 4 pitches with a 60M works great.
A nut is loose on the left hanger of the double-bolt anchor. We spun it back on by hand, but did not have tools to tighten. Beware of it. Hopefully the next person up can tighten this nut before it falls off.
Pretty easy for the 5.8 rating. Trust your feet and it climbs well.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Dick Van Dike (5.9-)
By: joell When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route as a first 5.9 lead. The bolts are surprisingly close together, so the comfort level is quite high for a 5.9 lead.
After climbing the quartz crystals, there are two variations for getting back up onto the face. Lie-back the flake for the easier way up. You'll see it when you get there.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : The Rasp (5.8)
By: joell When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route, something different. Watch the rock quality however, as not all the holds can be trusted. I had one hold come off in my hand. It was just layers of mica flaking apart. Be careful.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Born Under Punches (5.10a PG13)
By: joell When: Sep 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clean Dan and I did the first ascent of this route so long ago, that I didn't remember it until my friend John Baldwin reminded me that we had done it. This is just a little tribute to my friend Dan, who left us early, probably because he was fighting demons, just as I have. I didn't know it at the time, and I think Dan made the route name suggestion, but I believe both of us survived some punches. The difference is I got a handle on the hits I got, and Dan didn't. I am really sad to lose th... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : CCD (5.1)
By: joell When: Sep 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route to take the kids up after they have been patient and let the adults climb for a while.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Abbot Arete (5.7)
By: joell When: Aug 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also rap from the Abbot Arete anchors with a single 60 meter rope if you go down to the large flake that Southern Hospitality begins from. If you choose to use the Wes Bound anchors, you can actually be lowered on belay if you descend into the Inner Sanctum along Wes Bound. A 60 meter rope will reach from the base of Abbott Arete to the Wes Bound anchors and down to the base of Wes Bound with plenty to spare.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Lion's Den : Katie's Route (5.6)
By: joell When: Jul 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route for 5.6 lovers. The approach is tough to find, and looks harder than it really is. Once on TR, climb along the point of the arete on the left of the bolts to make a thinner route (5.7 or so) that is also fun.
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