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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Lenticular Dome : Mental Physics (5.7+)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a great route! Definitely a must do. Very well protected. Most of the moves are probably 5.6 (with only a couple 5.7 thrown in), but given how continuous and sustained it is, I think it deserves a solid 5.7.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An ok route. Very similar to many climbs at Mt Rushmore in the Black Hills, SD. Would go as 5.8 there. BTW... thats not quartz on the route, its feldspar (sorry, the geologist cant let that go unsaid!).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Eschar (5.4)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found it difficult to get a good piece in until I got to the horizontal crack. Otherwise an ok clmb. Great fist jams up high!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Cranny (5.8)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this climb was a lot easier than it looked (althogh I only toproped it). The pro looked a little sketchy, would love to lead it otherwise. I stemmed most of the way up which probably made it feel easier.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Filch (5.5)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this felt a lot easier than 5.5, but I enjoy wide, akward cracks! Although big gear looks good for the bottom section, I found small placemnts to be bomber. The upper hand crack section was also a lot of fun!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: Joe M When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although the pro on this is really good and you can really sew it up (I did), the 5.7 rating is definitely old-school. The start is definitely protectable, but still a little spicey! Fun route though, will definitely do it again!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Dam - Back Side : Pieces of Eight (5.9+)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dont fall once you arfe past the last bolt! We set up a top rope after doing Better Than Pool and Pie. Thats probably the best and safest way to do this route.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Dam - Back Side : Better Than Pool and Pie (5.6)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The most difficult part of this route is trying to decide which hold to use... there are so many of them!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Classic Crack (5.7)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely my favorite route in the whole Needles area so far and probably in the top 3 for the entire Black Hills!!! This is a MUST do for anyone who like trad. You can pretty much sew it up the entire way and shouldnt need anything bigger than a #3 camalot. I used hand jams most of the way up and had no prblems with it. Cant wait to do it again!
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5)
By: Joe M When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route indeed! I just wish there were more technical pitches and not so much scrambling. We had some difficulties following the route but made it to the summit anyway, probably creating our own variations. Cant wait to go back!!!
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : La Vaca Peligrosa (5.8)
By: Joe M When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was just out there two weeks ago, didnt do it but saw it. The bolts were either replaced or never chopped. Looked fun though.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Ken's Crack (5.7+)
By: Joe M When: Jun 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fun crack climb. One of the few lines Ive done so far at the Traps that can be done entirely using crack techniques. A must do.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Updraft (5.5)
By: Joe M When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wasnt too impressed with this route. The first pitch was boring and the chimney although fun, was kind of short.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Proctoscope (5.9+)
By: Joe M When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice exposed moves on it, worth doing.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: Joe M When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fun route! My first 5.8 lead in the Gunks and enjoyed all of the first pitch. Would definitely do it again.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: Joe M When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route! Linked the first two pitches and was well worth it!
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Location: International : Canada
By: Joe M When: Sep 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody have any info on New Brunswick climbing and/or ice climbing?
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Location: SD : Falling Rock : North Canyon Wall : Two Bits (5.9)
By: Joe M When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a must-do route. Very fun!
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Skeletal Remains : Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch N... (5.7)
By: Joe M When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route, worth doing. The direct start option is probably more of a 5.9 upto the first bolt. After that, much easier.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Skeletal Remains : Preparation H (5.8)
By: Joe M When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely an akward route and a couple of moves are kind of scary on lead. But still a fun route, worth doing at least once.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Skeletal Remains : Storm Trooper of Love (5.8)
By: Joe M When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of this route can be climbed in or just after rain. The overhang keeps most of it dry.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a great climb! Definitely one of my all time favorites! The first two pitches can be combined into one if you have a 70m rope. The move out onto the High E wall is such a thrill and the rest of the pitch is just super fun! Can't wait to do it again!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Tipsy Trees (5.4)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun, well protected route. Great for new leaders. Plenty of possible ways up the first pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Rhododendron (5.6)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very fun route, but very busy. Get on it very early or very late in the day or plan to wait a long time for it. A top rope can be easily set up from Dirty Chimney about 20' to the left.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Horseman (5.5)
By: Joe M When: Sep 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really did not enjoy this route at all. There just wasn't anything great about it, except for the 1 foot approach from the carriage trail.
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