Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Organ Pipes (5.6)
By: Joe Brannan When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After completing the climb in two pitches with the 5.8, we top-roped the upper options. I felt the left side crack was tougher than anything on Melvin's Wheel, unless you stem which made it much easier (5.8). Using the crack exclusively felt like 5.9. The 5.7 option had one move at that grade and the 5.6 was just fun.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Left Side (5.6)
By: Joe Brannan When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the thin run-out face climbing above the tree on P1 was the crux. The tunnel was made easy and unique by using holds on the ceiling. Stick to the fin/arete feature on the last 20 meters to the summit for some fun lie-back stuff.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: Joe Brannan When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely has more of a mountaineering feel than a pure rock route. The approach has tons of poison ivy so those who are sensitive beware. The first pitch is the only run-out really and I thought if felt like 5.6 on the face above the overhang. If the Third Flatiron right side is a 5.7, this first pitch is at least a 5.6. A fun squeeze chimney to get back out of the 3rd(?) notch. The 4th and 5th notches required some back and forth route finding. In the fog and rain, the soaked lichen made... more >>
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Joe Brannan When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a great route. The route is a ridge route, despite the pictures here making it look more like a face. It starts out broad and narrows. Just head straight up from the start following fun features, don't trend left or right, routefinding seemed trivial. Stick to the ridge proper on the final pitch for some great exposure. The bivy sights in the Gash are amoung very large boulders just before you reach the main headwall cliff.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We started down the slab 150 feet from this and did a left-trending, ascending traverse using the flake line to the dihedral shown above. Adds 70 meters of good climbing to the start. Great simulclimb the entire way to the summit.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7)
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you stay on route, there are two 5.7 sections, the flake off the ground and the dihedral after the 2nd belay. We added a 5.8 crack to a small roof on p3 by straying a bit toward the center of the face. Ample gear throughout and super fun. Watch out for ice falling on your dome when its windy.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this today: 6-13-09
Ice is 'in' on pitch two, still pretty thin but fun, doesn't take a screw. P3 and P4 are well formed. A little soft but 'in' in all the right places. Snow is not well consolidated, think 12" of wet powder on a solid base. Maybe give it a few weeks, or get it now, its fun.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Great Dihedral (5.7)
By: Joe Brannan When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route with standard finish 9-6-08. Required a 4th 80' pitch on the lower buttress with a 50 meter rope. Used the 5.8 face variation on the third pitch which looked far superior to the blocky dihedral.
As far as the standard route finish goes, I found plenty of pro on the very alpine final 5.6 pitch (right of two dihedrals) and had nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. Bring fist size hexes, very useful.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Nightcap (5.9)
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First 5.9 lead and it was awesome. Gear is easy and abundant. Had to hang on the rope a bit at the crux but eventually sacked up and made the move.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak : Ormes Buttress (5.6)
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this 8/23/2008. The route is really loose and junky but easy. Solid pro is difficult to find, think I averaged a piece every 50 feet or so. Nothing bigger than #2 Camalot needed. Don't follow another party, you stand a good chance of getting hosed by falling carpet bombs of rock.
We used the N ridge descent option over Ellingwood. Getting down to the first notch in the saddle requires some 5th class downclimbing. The description above:
"From the gap, descend down to the righ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Hands Off (5.7)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protection was good the whole way. The option for easy stemming through the crux makes this a 5.7. Pretty short, but worth the quick go.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Grins (5.8)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My third 5.8 trad lead. I agree it was a great beginner route, as state above, for this grade.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We continued with the traverse after our 7-12-08 climb. Rap The Needle and then follow the fairly obvious class 3 traversing terrain to a notch next to a large tower (crux of the traverse route, aside from the rappel, is getting into the notch). Follow the gully down west away from the ridge line to the base of the tower and then stay low on easy ledges and gullies to around 13,300' in the red couloir of Crestone Peak. Use the Red Couloir to finish Crestone. Descend the Red Couloir and retur... more >>
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this two days ago (7-12-08) using the direct start and a 54 meter rope. Found the first pitch of the direct to be 5.4 due to a traverse to get into the open book at the start the pitch. The rest of the first pitch is simple low angle crack with some loose rock on a wide belay ledge. The second pitch was a bit tougher with a 5.6 traverse to get back on route after climbing left to avoid a steeper manky section of the crack. After that, easy fun and solid 5.4 crack to another huge bela... more >>
|
RSS Feed
