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On Durin's Bane


Member Since: Aug 7, 2005
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Joe Forrester
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Total Points: 1,068
Last Year: 181
Last 30 Days: 33
92 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 368 | Routes 20 | Areas 7 | Photos 134 | Page Improvements | Comments 93 | Posts 60 | Stars 50 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter...
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Some beta for the approaches: from the parking lot, the first major drainage you come to hiking west after the gate is the Mantis drainage. There is a large beige pipe coming out of the ground. The second major drainage is the one with the Fortress, Passport, etc.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter... : Passport to the Golden Age (C1+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Second ascent on 6/7/15 with Chris A. Several nails are missing, so tread lightly. Spectres are helpful to bypass the missing nails. This is a really great location, with breathtaking views of Palisade. Worth the hike.

You need ~30+ tie-offs.....


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter... : The Sword of Damocles. (C2+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: All nails are in place as of 6/6, and the webbing slung around the top has been replaced. Lots of tie-offs and screamers are helpful.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Appetite for Destruction (5.12a/b)
By: Joe Forrester When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: This is the real deal. Quite an adventure.

Would strongly recommend against linking P6+7, leaves you simul-climbing through some pretty horrific terrain.

That this was drilled on lead is a testament to the fortitude and vision that is regrettably less and less common in the sport. Got to love the West Desert.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Netherworld : Hydraform Ridge (5.8 A3)
By: Joe Forrester When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Thanks James. The route shares three of the original pitches of the Hydra route; the first pitch is new, as are the last 8. The Hydra ended at the top of the start of the fin. It was quite an epic.....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Netherworld : Hydraform Ridge (5.8 A3)
By: Joe Forrester When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: I placed this route here in the Netherworld section as the approach and location make it rather distinct from the Mystery Towers proper.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : The Zipper (5.11d A0 PG13)
By: Joe Forrester When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: On an ascent back in 2002 or so, I remember pulling at least one of those old quarter inch bolts out by hand. Fun times....


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Mountain : Horsetooth Rock - West Face : The Wild Child (5.11- PG13)
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, good views, quick climbing.

P1 - 5.10 b/c. The gear is pretty good, with a great stopper protecting the moves into the flare/offwidth. 1 #3 and 1 #4 are all that are needed for wide gear. After the first 15 feet, it is about 5.7/8. Save a #1 for the anchor.
P2 - 5.9+. Can be climbed entirely on gear without using any of the old Stardrives or new angles that someone pounded in. No need for any new pins, the gear is bomber. End at two bolts.
P3 - 5.8. The run-out cl... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Syringe : Lakeshore Loon (5.11)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: The Pika hangers could use an upgrade. Not sure if holds have broken off, but the last pitch felt the hardest by far on the route.


Location: UT : Ibex : Severity Buttress : Severity Disparity (5.11a)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Nothing larger than a 0.75 Camalot needed on the first pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Dec 14, 2014

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Comments: You should be c*&K punched.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Dalke Route (5.9 R)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: Was up there 6/28/14. Great line. Just a heads up. There is an extra large, pizza box-size flake waiting to go just before the traverse right on the 5th pitch. It is very large and very loose and is an obvious hand-hold one wants to yard on. Could easily result in a cut rope. There was a group down below us, so we didn't trundle it.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Goldeneye (5.11c/d)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Would agree on the 11d. Quite thin, balancy, and fun for such a short climb.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Born On The Fourth (5.10a)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Lot of rock is still coming off this, I suggest belayers wear helmets.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Evil Empire (5.11c)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Great line. V1 boulder problem to 5.9 climbing.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Uckfay Ushbay (5.11a)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing on good rock. Closer to 5.10c/d.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Blood (5.11c)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Route has cleaned up pretty nicely, but it is a good idea to have the belayer wear a helmet.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Intestinal Fortitude (5.11b)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing but pretty sharp. Helpful to bring a 0.75 to supplement the bolts. More like 10+/11a.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Mountain : Horsetooth Rock - West Face : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Like the topo.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Horn's Mother (5.11a)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Excellent line. The crux pitch is fun, but the money is on the second pitch. Get some....


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: Joe Forrester When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Went ctc in 14.5 hours on this on 5/18. Temps were 80s in Provo, and it was pretty pleasant on the climb, but we started early. Had 3.5L per person.

We climbed it in 16 pitches with a 70m. Linked 1+2, 3+4+5, 7+8, 10+11, and 14+15. I brought 24 draws/slings and I didn't have to skip many bolts while linking.

The upper pitches are more sustained and don't lend themselves quite as well to linking although I would bet 19+20 could be linked without too much work.

The rock isn't that loose on the ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan
By: Joe Forrester When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: To the person who left two chunks of wet carpet at the base of the titan out in the pines. Pick up your crap. If you drop gear from something, take the time to try and recover it. I hiked your shitty carpet/belay seat out and threw it out.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Joe Forrester When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: ^^^Second this one. Climbing on Cutler the morning after a heavy rain is pretty dangerous. If there is enough water that it is pooling, probably wise to wait for the rock to dry. Be smart and don't turn into a statistic that will change access for the worse.


Location: UT : Marjum Canyon : Eye of the Needle Wall : Eye of the Needle (5.10a)
By: Joe Forrester When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: This was a great climb! Well protected and fun face climbing! The rock in the "eye" is really wild and worth the trip in and of itself. Great score!

We found it was easier to approach by hiking up to the far left side of the wall, then traverse around to the start of the climb.

Be careful of knocking rocks down on your belayer. Make sure to wear a helmet.


Location: UT : Marjum Canyon : Tower Ridge : The Marjumhorn (5.11b)
By: Joe Forrester When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this on 4/19/14. From the summit register, last group to summit was 2006. The paper in the register is the consistency of papyrus at this point, and neither of the pens work. It would be rad if future parties bring up a better register/pens. Overall, a totally cool limestone tower, with a great summit.

Second pitch felt a little more technical than the first pitch, but both were great fun and well protected.

Don't underestimate the approach, takes about an hour up, and an hour down. ... more >>


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