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Member Since: Jan 2, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2013
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Point Rank: # 493
Total Points: 1,156
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Areas are worth 15
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All (828) | Routes (71) | Areas (10) | Photos (3) | Comments (281) | Posts (28) | Stars (312) | Ratings (123)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Bobsled (5.11c/d)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 2, 2003

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Comments: Best of the 5 routes I did at Plotinus.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 2, 2003

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Comments: Time for a little lesson in crag manners. We got up pretty early yesterday and headed up to do the Yellow Spur. While racking up at the base a party of two arrives, clearly unhappy that they had to wait for us to start.

'Are you guys gonna move pretty fast?', one asks, hoping that we'll allow these Potter-esque speed demons to go first. 'We'll be fine,' I reply. While I led the first pitch, my partner is forced to listen to numerous, 'we should have gotten up 5 minutes earlier,' comments,... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D7 (5.11)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 29, 2003

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Comments: [Gillett] calls it 11c. Green calls it 11d. Rossiter??? Steve calls it 11c or d. I didn't have the slightest chance to onsight which makes me think 11d. The crux pitch has two really hard sections. Though they are both short, they're really hard and you arrive with a good pump at each of them. Since it is a pretty long pitch, the 2nd crux felt almost as hard as the first to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Prince of Thieves (5.12b)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 19, 2003

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Comments: Pretty hard, devious, boulder problem.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Old Easy : MRC Direct (5.9)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 11, 2003

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Comments: I'm glad to see there has been some grade revision for Straight Edge (9+ in Heel/Toe), but 10a is still a pretty big sandbag. A long-sleeve shirt should be a key piece of gear for this variation, since the fist jams are nearly an arm-length back in the crack (for my hands anyway). Save a #4 friend for the belay... the belay does not take large nuts as stated in the guide. A 6' leap is required to get back down to the MRC rap anchors if you top out on Straight Edge.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 11, 2003

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Comments: It would be hard to imagine a more amazing feature in a more beautiful, uncrowded setting. This gets my award for the prettiest spot at Vedauwoo... it would be nice if there were a few more moderates in the area, but then it would probably be as popular as the Nautilus. The gear list is almost perfect, though you could get by with one less #1 and #2 camalot (backcleaning from the rests), and still get a piece every body length.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : North Corner : SS Maywood (5.10)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 11, 2003

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Comments: You'll need two ropes to get back down to the ground from the rap anchors at the top of the dihedral. One 60m rope will deposit you on the low angle slab and will probably require a weird downclimb. I was glad to have one #4 Camalot and one #4 Friend for this pitch, and even then I was doing a ton of backcleaning and cam walking. For the small fisted, this quickly turns into an OW-fest since the better jams are in the back of the crack


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Thindependence (5.10c)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 4, 2003

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Comments: Placing small nuts alleviates the problem of plugging up your fingerlocks with cams. There is a good nut constriction every 4-5 feet in the first 30 feet (crux). Gear beta (don't read if you don't want it): I almost emptied my rack of all nuts in the #2-#4 BD stopper range in the crux first 30 feet, and didn't place a single cam.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 4, 2003

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Comments: I think 11c is fair for the headwall variation on lead. It might feel easier on TR, but the pro (which is good) is strenuous to place and requires a bit of tinkering unless you know the exact nut size. Though short, it's similar in character (right leaning) and difficulty to the crux section on Max Factor (Vedauwoo), but thinner.

This is an 11c lead. Harder than Living Dead (11b). Comparable in difficulty to Max Factor (Vedauwoo, 11c).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 1, 2003

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Comments: The trail along the base of the cliff is covered in THICK Poison Ivy right now. Way worse than I've ever seen in the Black Canyon. Best to approach via the boulderfield that parallels the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 1, 2003

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Comments: I took advantage of the end of the raptor closures and did this route this morning. If there is a better combination of splitter 5.10 Eldo crack pitches, then I have yet to see it. Dave Goldstein's gear suggestion for the crux pitch is pretty much right on.... I had a #3, 3.5, and 4 Camalots which worked, though one could probably do it with less backcleaning with a second #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend). A couple specific comments on the 1st pitch: 1) the fixed anchor indicated ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 31, 2003

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Comments: Before some of you folks work yourselves into a tizzy about wildlife closures because you have to wait two weeks before scrambling up the third flatiron for your 17th time, you may want to consider a few points:

1) These aren't just any "birds". We're not talking about swallows or pigeons, here... we're talking about raptors, most likely peregrines. They're pretty amazing creatures if you take the time to learn about them.

2) Think a little bit about where you live. There are roughly 10,000... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 30, 2003

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Comments: Hard to give more than 1 star to what basically amounts as a free solo on licheny, semi-crumbly huecos.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 29, 2003

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Comments: Replace bolts: yes, great idea.

New rap anchors: not in the tradition of Lumpy climbing. Tough luck on the weather, but you could have left a few stoppers if you had to bail. I suspect that new bolted anchors will get chopped.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Toot (5.10d)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 27, 2003

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Comments: I'm embarresed to admit that I too pre-placed the first nut (but didn't clip the rope) when I climbed this. I wish I hadn't because the moves off the deck aren't that hard, but the landing sucks. It sounds like this is standard practice for this route, and there is a quiver of sticks at the base that serve this purpose.An excellent, sustained, short climb that would be 3 stars if it were longer.

Gillet guide has this as 10c. It felt a bit easier than Outlander, which is benchmark hard-10c.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Howling at the Wind (5.11a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 27, 2003

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Comments: Great climb! There is nothing scary about the crux... there is good gear under the roof and then in the dihedral just before pulling around the roof (watch out for wetness in this section during T-storm season... the crux holds were wet yesterday). I'm trying not to sandbag anyone, but I gotta say that this has to be one of the easier 5.11s in the area, and is a good choice for those who are trying to push into the grade.

The 2nd and 3rd pitches can be linked all the way to the large block b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rover (5.11b R)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 24, 2003

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Comments: Not too bad on the doo-doo factor. I didn't particularly notice anything dramatic, so its certainly not second-pitch-of-Jules-Verne caliber. We definitely heard birds squirming around inside the crack though.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Rowdy Joe Bad (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: I checked out the vedauwoo.org website which lists this climb as "Rowdy Joe Bad" and grades it 5.11c.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: This is a spectacular Diamond route. Burly in sections with beautiful cracks in others. Some beta (skip the next two paragraphs if you don't want it):

There is most certainly a way to face climb around the ominous slot on the first pitch above Crossover Ledge. I didn't notice it until after I grovelled through the slot (#4 Camalot), which was undoubtedly the crux of the climb for me. The face climbing section is to the RIGHT of the slot and follow thin edges protected by a fixed nut and... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Romulan Territory (5.10a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 14, 2003

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Comments: This is a great climb. One of the two or three best for the grade that I've done in the Front Range. I think 10a is pretty much right on as a technical grade, though the gear is tricky and not overly abundant... basically not a climb for someone breaking into 5.10. Be prepared for long sections of sustained 5.9 liebacking where you'll find that it's much easier to run it out than try to dick in marginal gear from poor stances. The direct finish protects, but the pro is not exactly where you ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 14, 2003

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Comments: Adding to what Pete said above, the usual threaded rap slings in the gully have been removed. Apparently some selfish individual has delegated to the rest of the community their opinon on what constitutes an unacceptable way of descending the Bookmark.

A slung block (blue webbing with rap ring) can be found below by scrambling down the ramp next to the old rap spot. Better yet, if someone reads this who is heading up to the Bookmark, bring some black or grey webbing and a rap ring and re-es... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : War Zone (5.11b)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 14, 2003

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Comments: The climbing above the last bolt is the crux and borderline 'S'. At the very least there's big whipper potential.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Grand Traverse (5.10+)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 14, 2003

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Comments: If you do the burly 2nd pitch (highly recommended), there is a threaded rap anchor at the top. A rap with a single 60m rope will put you on top of the boulders at the base of Max Factor where you can scramble down easily to the left or right.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Deception (5.9)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 11, 2003

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Comments: The description above describes the first pitch only, which I'd put in the 5.8 range (a fun lead for those who aren't willing to give Friday the 13th a go). Deception is best done by linking the 2 pitches to the top. The 5.9 comes in a lieback corner just above the rap rings mentioned above. The lieback eventually opens to a short squeeze chimney. Most people will want a #4 camalot for this part.

We weren't able to easily reach the Middle Parallel Space or War Zone anchors from the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 20, 2003

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Comments: A fun, thoughtful little climb. The "anchor" at the top is shite and in dire need of an upgrade (Fred??... Heidi??). It would be considered a bad anchor in the desert!See the gear alert.

The anchor consists of three rusty quarter inchers, equalized with slings. This would be considered a bad anchor even by obscure desert tower standards. Back things up with small to medium cams if you plan on TRing. For cleaning: best not to lower off the anchor... rap instead.


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