Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 2, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2013
Contact Joe Collins


Point Rank: # 536
Total Points: 1,156
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Collins been climbing?










Contributions


All 828 | Routes 71 | Areas 10 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 281 | Posts 28 | Stars 312 | Ratings 123
Page 6 of 12.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Walk of Shame (V-easy X)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 23, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Judging by the number of people who have done this route more than once, doesn't this fall into the category of "worth repeating." Wouldn't that make this a 2-star climb, then?


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 21, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This is an incredible route, and among the best grade IVs anywhere. I can't believe it's taken me this long to do it. I found this to be a more burly, though quicker day than the Scenic Cruise.Except for the top part, I can't remember many sections that drop below the 5.9 level.The pitches are real rope stretchers if you do it as described in the guide book... bring LOTS of long slings.Don't skimp on the water either... this thing roasts in the sun all day and is pretty sheltered from breezes... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Rock Lobster (5.11b)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 21, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This is an all-time Indian Creek classic and probably one of the softer 11s you'll ever do. Its a great intro to finger stacks, since the crux section is less than vertical and there are slightly wider parts for the feet. If there are cars already parked at Broken Tooth when you arrive, then you best go elsewhere since there isn't a huge selection of climbs and everyone wants to do Rock Lobster.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Wounded Knee (5.11b)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 7, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: If the jams at the start feel squirly to you (tight #3 camalot) then you'll be very unhappy if you didn't tape up. I discovered this firsthand as I left a substanial chunk of flesh in the start of the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Smell the Coffee (5.10a)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 6, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: We climbed this by going slightly left at the second bolt, liebacking the seam. Felt pretty hard for 10a... definitely harder than Napster or Mr. Sandman. It's tempting to even call it 10+.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 2, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: To jump in here, Richard... the beta I used for that section was to crank from the undercling straight up with the left to a well-ticked gaston edge. My partner used a four-pad micro-crimp just below and to the left of this. Then I would quickly slap the right hand onto the groper (the one you probably cross to). This might not work if you don't have the ape index. We both initially tried the cross-through to the groper, which went more staticly, but couldn't move up from that hold.

I cou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 1, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: The first two pitches, linked together, made one of the most spectacular pitches I've yet to do in Eldo. The pin on the "first" pitch is not visible until you are literally face-to-face with it. This led to some pumpy and futile gear tinkering in the scoop below. The pin looks pretty good, certainly better than the manky nuts that I thought were going to protect the crux. "Pitch 2" has incredible position and exposure for being only 100 feet off the deck... this pitch is probably more scary ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11b)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 29, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: The black alien backs up the old fixed slider nut at the start.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Hooker (5.10c)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 29, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Oh... and another thing... placing a bolted line between Hooker and Blue Steel would be a squeezed eyesore. I gotta side with the disgruntled AC/Laramie local on this one. These are two very good gear lines separated by 15 feet at the most. Bolts on this face could conceiveably be clipped from either Blue Steel or Hooker. Keep it as TR and save the bolts for something else.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Hooker (5.10c)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 29, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Heel & Toe makes the comment that the 10c rating takes into account the difficulty in protecting the first 25 feet. This didn't make any sense to me until I led it. The seam doesn't take gear, except for a few pin scars which only take cams. So in other words, if you want pro, you have to plug up the finger locks. I got a good RP just before what felt like the crux, but besides that, nut placements would probably be mank in the first half of the climb. A fun climb that is more reminiscent o... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 29, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: At Eldo this would get an 'S'. The crux is "protected" but a fall moving to the undercling, which is the crux, could be unpleasant. If you are really tall, you can reach high and place a cam in the undercling before the most insecure move. If the climb is being seconded, place a directional yellow or red alien in the horizontal above the undercling... the anchors are well to the climber's right of the place where you pull the bulge.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Mainstreet (5.10a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 29, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, a wide crack that's actually fun! This would be a great intro to 5.10 OW. There are 3 bolts on this climb... one at the start, one at the end of the crux, and one in the upper section (I find the presence of these bolts to be curious considering this is well protected with modern OW gear). 2 #5 camalots and 1 #3 bigbro worked great as the rack for this climb... anything smaller is extra weight. The crux is as well protected as OW gets, but you should be a solid at 5.8 chimne... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 22, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I've always climbed the crux section of Xanadu with my hands in the left corner, right leg stemmed in the right corner, left foot on the face. Feels like solid 10a this way. I'll have to try it staying in the right corner next time...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Muscular Dystrophy (5.11a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 22, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Very fun 5.9 climbing to a short crux. Physical jamming to a hard move. I agree with Tony... there are definitely easier 11a's at Eldo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Superstone (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 22, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Looking at the comments here, I think I did the route 'wrong'. After pulling the crux you get a great jug slightly up and right of the hand jam. The path of least resistance from here is to climb up and right into the left facing dihedral. Probably easy 5.9. It seemed fairly contrived to force the line out left, staying in the right facing dihedral, or even going out farther left to the flare. Definitely a one-move wonder, and pretty easy for the grade.

Cool climbing throught the crux. Th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Cracking the Code (5.11b)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 19, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: If you don't do the 2nd pitch, then you're missing out. The first pitch, in of itself, is probably not two-star quality. I thought the better climbing was on the 2nd pitch. The position is also excellent, though there is a bit of looseness. Climbing all the way to the top from the anchors at the top of pitch 1 is about 90 feet of climbing and one 60m rope easily gets you back down to that anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 19, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I agree that the bolt protecting the crux at the lip of the roof is not in the best place.The bolt is placed such that the carabiner on the rope end of a short quickdraw rests against the lip of the roof. There's pretty big whipper potential here, especially once you commit to the insecure moves on the slab, and big falls could cross load the biner, open the gate, etc... if you use a short draw. Use a long (more than 6 inch) quickdraw here.

This route's kind of a sandbag at 11+, compared to s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Plan B (5.12b)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 19, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Best mid-5.12 and under sport climb in the Canyon? Two 5.12 cruxes with a good shaking hold between them. Lots of other mid to hard-5.11 cruxes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Boulder Quartz System (5.12a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 11, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: An instant classic!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Way Layed (5.11a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 9, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I got the grade and name spelling above from the Poorperson's guide. The guide with the green cover grades the route 11b and gives the name as "Way Laid", the correct way to spell it (imagine that!). Felt like pretty easy 5.11 to me, so 11a is more like it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 8, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: AC-

this is more appropriate for a private email, but since you've posted as AC, I'll have to respond here.

You're memory of the incident is off. I never claimed I was fast... and since when is a 3+ hour ascent of the Spur fast? I simply said we'll be fine. However, I'll stand by my partner's version of events regarding the comments and gestures which I mentioned in my previous comment. She was certainly upset by the attitude she perceived from one of you guys in particular. Maybe you'r... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 8, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Bring your own drinking water when you come to the Tower. The water in this area of Wyoming tastes like a$$. If you must drink the water, then the ranger station bathroom water is about as good as it gets.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Direct Southwest (5.11b)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 8, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Regarding the gear beta above for pitch 2, the size range is more .75" to 1". Anything larger than a red alien is pretty much useless. Awesome crack climbing!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Lichen Lung (5.10d)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 3, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Way harder than Mud in your Eye. Flipping the grades on Mud and Lichen Lung is probably a little more realistic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Sleepless in Boulder (5.11a/b)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 2, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climbing. This probably deserves one star right now, but once it cleans up a bit it will be a solid 2 star route.


Page 6 of 12.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>