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Member Since: Jan 2, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2013
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Areas = 15
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All 828 | Routes 71 | Areas 10 | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 281 | Posts 28 | Stars 312 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Slender Fungus (5.10c)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 22, 2004

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Comments: If you're calling the extension (p2) 10d, then I have my doubts that you've actually climbed it. I'll stick with the Knapp rating of 11c. It's a touch easier than Graceland, the hard-11c to the right, but harder than No Passion for Fassion, the 11b/c on the front side of the Prow.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 22, 2004

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Comments: Awesome. I found the crux to be the section right after the bulge, moving past the third bolt.The bulge is a hard pull, but no harder than 12a in of itself. Pretty good whipper potential if you blow the end of the crux sequence getting to the 4th bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Rising (5.12a/b)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 22, 2004

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Comments: Hmmmmm.... I've gotta disagree with this being considered "one of the best pitches at Shelf".Pretty average route, even by Cactus-Cliff-right/Spiney standards.Nice lower section, but the bulby features on the upper half are pretty crumbly.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 17, 2004

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Comments: Just to be a grade geek here... comparing to other BC routes, I found this one a good bit harder to send than Animal Instinct, Amazing Face, and Hands of Destiny. I don't have much experience with 13a, but I would expect that to be a much longer-term project.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Hands of Destiny (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 17, 2004

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Comments: I think the Rolofson rating of "12c/d" is about right on. The "c/d" for the height dependent nature of several moves in the crux section. Don't think you have this climb in the bag if you get through the lower section... the top seam/slab is tricky and hard.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Angle of Repose (5.11d)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 12, 2004

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Comments: Pretty nice climb. Its on the west face, so it not as warm as you might hope given the formation's name. The two pitches are very different in character... the first, steep and juggy, with the second, slabby with friction being key. V3? dyno to start the first pitch. I thought overall, the second pitch was unquestionably harder than the first, especially with the fact that the two cruxy sections involve friction on quite flakey/licheny rock.Weird moves. Solid 12a, I thought, though with som... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 9, 2004

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Comments: The descent from the top of Epinepherine is tricky. The best beta is to follow the ridge as long as possible before descending down into Black Velvet Canyon. Descend too soon and you'll be forced to rappel.

Best to go fast and light on this route. Packs just get in the way on the chimney pitches. If you think you'll be slow, then climb it in May when the days are long and the temps are pretty reasonable in Black Velvet. The upper pitches have lots of 5.9 sections on the topo, but this part... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bearcat Goes to Hollywood (5.11d)
By: Joe Collins When: Jan 26, 2004

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Comments: For history's sake, where were the original locations of the bolts? Looking at the Rossiter topo it looks like there was a bolt at the start of the upper hard slab climbing (at the present 5th bolt), then one at the crux (present 7th bolt), and then some fixed stuff in the seams below the anchor. Presumably the lower section was protected by RPs in the seam to the left of bolts 1, 2, and 3?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: Joe Collins When: Jan 26, 2004

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Comments: Very tricky climbing. I found this route to be harder than the Ticket, Jolt Cola, and Bearcat goes to Hollywood. The crux can be climbed as a stem problem or a layback off the seam. The stem variation may be easier if you are short enough to get in that position.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bearcat Goes to Hollywood (5.11d)
By: Joe Collins When: Jan 26, 2004

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Comments: Having just climbed this great route on Saturday, I thought the section between the 3rd and 4th bolts was a little spicy, but not serious, unless you seriously screw it up on the 5.4/5.5 waterdishes to clip the 4th bolt. The 5.8ish mantle comes a few feet above the 3rd bolt. For those who don't like runouts of any kind, the 11b first pitch of Divine Wind is perhaps better protected and is one of the best trad pitches in the Canyon. Masochists who enjoy #3 Camalot sized jamming can finis... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Joe Collins When: Jan 12, 2004

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Comments: A bit of an unheralded classic. Crux felt a bit stout for 9, and the moves are a bit reachy. First pitch is 5.8 X.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Joe Collins When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: Awesome route. Hard to believe this line wasn't put up until recently. I found the hardest single move to be the long move from the jug at the 2nd bolt... this was a low percentage move for me. If you don't have a stick clip, you can clip the first bolt of Rama to remove the possibility of tumbling down to the creek.

Not sure what to make of the downgrading going on here. I think people just like to give Bob a hard time. I've been able to finish 12c's at Boulder Canyon and Shelf really qui... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Side Wall (5.11b R)
By: Joe Collins When: Dec 3, 2003

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Comments: I think the 1st pitch of this route is borderline 'VS', or at least considerably more serious than indicated in most of the comments on this page.I didn't lead this but I sussed out the gear placements on TR. The lower half is reasonably well protected. From the stance at mid-height, you can get in a small RP... it sets reasonably well, but the direction of pull in a fall might pull it out. The next 12 feet or so is the crux. You can place a nut in the middle of the hardest climbing, but you... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Dos Hermanos (5.12-)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 21, 2003

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Comments: For me, the last roof is undoubtedly the crux. I have skinny hands, so the jams out the roof at the end are just too big. I've climbed the lower crux clean a couple of times, but always fail to pull the last roof.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Hurricane (5.12a/b)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 17, 2003

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Comments: This is a very nice route. Great find, Bob! Sustained, but there are some good stances to get the juice back. The move to the anchors wasn't all that difficult, but it is tricky since you suddenly find yourself at a balancey, technical move after 60 feet of enduro pocket pulling.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Future Fossil (5.12c)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 17, 2003

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Comments: Beautiful. The crux is probably more at the 2nd bulge just after the rest... two consecutive near-deadpoints to good pockets. The lower crux is hard but you are fresh and there are more options. Gotta love the Bank!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : No Rest For the Wicked (5.12a)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 17, 2003

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Comments: Holy Pump-o-Rama!!!This is a burly and awesome route. I could not, for the life of me, cop a decent rest on the break in the middle of the route (thus the name??). Fred's guide says that he got a no-hands here. Beta? Maybe moving way left to the undercling on "Suede Head"? I was able to clip the anchors by getting a right heel hook on the horn-thing, and palming a feature in the corner with my left hand.

As for the grade? Maybe if you could somehow a get a no-hands at the midpoint... b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 11, 2003

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Comments: A bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch will never be approved, so it's not even worth debate.

What is worth debate is the current set-up and whether it should be removed.I think its pointless to remove the current anchor. People like to climb the first pitch of Blind Faith. If you remove the anchor, I'm certain that a new, similar set-up will reappear. This presents another question: is a bolted anchor more visually unobtrusive than a nest of ratty slings?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Iron Horse (5.11)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 10, 2003

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Comments: One of Eldo's best thin crack pitches. Yep, this is called "Iron Horse" in the guidebook. A little contrived since you can chicken out onto Pony Express in a number of places. I guess you can give it an 'S' for the run to the anchors, but if you get through the crux, it really isn't much to worry about (maybe scarier for shorter climbers?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 10, 2003

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Comments: I agree that this is a fairly sane lead for the Eldo 5.11 climber. You can sew it up through the crux. The hardest move was getting to the large chalked flat hold in the middle of the lower section... after that the pro worsens but the climbing isn't as hard (though still solid 10/10+ or so). I got pro in through this part, but I wasn't terribly confident that it could hold falls... the most 'bomber' nut placement on this section is behind a chalked hold that makes a funny sound when you set ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 5, 2003

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Comments: I agree with Dan. The crux is well protected with a purple TCU or black alien. No disrespect Mic, but saying a route should be protectable, "without having to go to neptune and buy a micro cam ..." is about the worst excuse for placing a bolt that I've heard in a long time. And doesn't a purple TCU fall under the category of "standard rack" for Eldo 10s and 11s?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Funkdemental (5.11b)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 29, 2003

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Comments: " just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route."

So 3 or 4 feet to the side of a bolt is off route? I thought that if you are following a bolt line, anything within reach is on route... if not, the route falls under the category of "contrived".

I did this route this past weekend, and I have to agree with the AC on this one. At the "crux", I climbed the obvious easier ground just to the right of the bolt and tr... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: I made my first visit to this cliff this weekend and I have to say that the Bank is undoubtedly the finest crag at Shelf. You are likely to find a lot of solitude at the Bank these days, since the vast majority of Shelf visitors seem to flock to Cactus Cliff in droves.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Heavy Weather (5.12a/b)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: Awesome route. This climb reminds me of Hot Bitch on the Beach at Cactus Cliff... no real stopper crux but lots of 11+ climbing. Shorter climbers may find the middle crux to be pretty reachy.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : The Mural (5.12b)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: After getting back on this climb this weekend, I have to upgrade my previous quality rating. I even was able to find a sequence that made it feel reasonably in the ballpark of 12b. Its definitely one of the best climbs at Shelf, though you'll probably hate it if you're not into vertical slab climbing on tiny pockets. It climbs more similarly in style to Penitente or the long-forgotten pocket mecca of Cochiti Mesa, NM, than your typical Shelf route.


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