Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 2, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2013
Contact Joe Collins


Point Rank: # 526
Total Points: 1,156
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Collins been climbing?










Contributions


All 828 | Routes 71 | Areas 10 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 281 | Posts 28 | Stars 312 | Ratings 123
Page 4 of 12.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Two Hearts (5.11b/c)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 1, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Hard to imagine you didn't notice the chipped hold at the start on this one. The perfect 4-finger mailslot is most certainly manufactured. There is another questionable two finger right after this, but I didn't need to use it... shorter people might have to. From the 2nd bolt onward, the climbing is sustained, tricky, and long... 3-stars. If you find long-5.11s with one move of V6 more troubling than route modification, you'll love this route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Blank Frank (5.12a/b)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 1, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Best route I've done on the Dark Side. I thought the crux was the mono/undercling sequence near the top.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 1, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Of the dozen or so routes I've done in Sand Gulch, this is my favorite. I was told that there haven't been any broken holds, but there used to be a large block you could stand on to reach the mailslot at the start.Pretty spooky finish.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Weed n' Feed (5.11b R)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 1, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Nice first pitch, though it really shouldn't be bolted... even at Shelf.Lots of loose stuff on the 2nd pitch... it really needs a LOT more cleaning. I went hard left at the last bolt... not much there straight up. This goes easily in one pitch with long slings in a few places.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 1, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: For the problem of falling on your belayer, its best to do the first two pitches as one. Expect huge rope drag on the 2nd pitch though. We got around this by TR'ing the first pitch, then launched into the 2nd pitch with the belayer still on the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Evolution Revolution (5.12b/c)
By: Joe Collins When: May 27, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: The slab, as well as the start, are much trickier than they look. I think the roof overhead gives the illusion that this section isn't very steep. 12b/c seems about right... we thought it was harder than the crux of Global Gorilla.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: Joe Collins When: May 27, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I did the second pitch of this recently and really didn't think it was any part of 12c. I would say 12b, 2 stars. The first pitch, however, is my favorite mid-11 sport pitch in the Canyon, fully 3 stars


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: Joe Collins When: May 25, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Dave- I think the anchor would be much better located about 30 feet lower. As it is, the 4th pitch is very long and the 5th pitch is very short. The roof at the start of pitch 4 gave me massive roof drag towards the end of pitch 4. It seems that a shorter pitch 4 would make more sense with a belay not too long after the roof... then pitch 5 could be a long pitch up the corner with no rope drag. Also, if the anchor were lower it would be on the slightly lower angle section where a hanging bel... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dum : Fumbledeedum (4th)
By: Joe Collins When: May 20, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: There are several large, difficult to avoid, patches of poison ivy on this route/gully. The Black Canyon may have the reputation as the poison-ivy capitol of Colorado, but the Flatirons can be just as bad since it is often mixed in with thick vegetation. Know what the plant looks like, and STAY AWAY.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rock Odyssey (5.12b)
By: Joe Collins When: May 20, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: This climb features several cool sections and quite hard cruxes interspersed with uninspiring climbing. A worthy outing but calling this one 3 stars is a bit of a stretch. The second and third pitches are way harder than the first. The section above the roof on the last pitch is bolted strangely: the zig-zaggy positions of the bolts leads to massive rope drag on the finish... I'd recommend judicious use of long slings on this pitch. Compared to other routes in Boulder/Dream Canyons, I would ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Black Top (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: May 18, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I think Dr. Dan is thinking of a different pitch since Backtalk is in a different place (Blackwalk maybe?). There are several sections on this pitch that probably warrant an 'S' rating. Getting to the first bolt requires a low-5.10ish mantle-like move and would be a bad swinging fall onto the anchor if you blow it. That bolt should probably be a couple feet lower. Beyond that, although the route is spicey, it's generally safe enough. There is nothing on the pitch as hard as the crux of Back... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : Jester (5.10d R)
By: Joe Collins When: May 7, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Beware of poison ivy in this gully. Right now it's hard to avoid since it hasn't leafed yet, and I got it pretty good on my arm.

The cam placement after the unprotected mantle looked bad... an offset Alien might work well here. The next moves are tricky 5.8/9 to get to the ramp... borderline VS territory if the cam fails. The upper half of this pitch is quite nice. Bring your RPs for the thin crack. It really didn't look like this route had seen much traffic in a long time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Tiger Balm Arete (5.11b R)
By: Joe Collins When: May 5, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Samet that the 4 bolt 11a variation is a travesty. I can't believe it was ever approved by the FHRC. Basically, it is a bail-out option for those unwilling to do the scary part of the climb. I've read comments pooh-poohing the notion that these bolts draw the climber away from the original line of TBA. In fact, this is exactly the sensation I experienced after pulling the crux... I was faced with the choice of a nice clip-up versus scary inobvious climbing. I was very close to ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: Joe Collins When: May 4, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I actually find it very difficult to believe people are downgrading this route. Maybe move for move there's no single 11 move. But on lead, after climbing up to the lip of the overhang clean, the crux felt like very solid 5.11. The pump factor's very high, so I can see this feeling easier if one is on TR, or if one hangs before the crux.

Incredible climb. The left to right traversing crack seems to be a staple of harder Flatiron trad climbs.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Sunrider (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 28, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: This would be a three star climb if it weren't so easy to climb the left side of the upper section of arete.It seems as if the upper 2 bolts (4th and 5th) were placed so as to force you to climb the right side of the arete, though the natural line of holds is on the left side.I took the left side of the arete in this section, left hand on positive crimps and right hand on the arete.The 4th bolt is in a bad location for this, and you are looking at a nasty swinging fall if you blow it. After cli... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 19, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Being an ex-NM person, I've met Alf a number of times at the Box and Enchanted Tower. He actually comes across as a nice, albeit insane, guy. I can't begin to tell you how many Alf tales (some tall) I've heard. They range from the egregious (chipping next to 45 degree wall at Hueco(see Verm's Hueco guide), threating people with guns, etc...) to the more mundane (destroying the access trail at E.T.). The guy has an "...in a Blender" problem at Hueco named after him, after all. Glad to see ne... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Undertow (5.12b)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 16, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Front Range sport climbs don't get much better. The actual count is 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, with cruxes at the 3rd and 4th bolts. There is a #2 Camalot placement between the 5th and 6th bolts in what looks like an old bong scar, but it looks like it wouldn't hold a fall. There is also a good #1 Camalot placement to protect the moves to the anchor.

There are a couple, what look like, pin scars on this route and lots of hookable features. Does anyone know the history of this... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Just Another Boy's Climb (5.11d)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 16, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! I don't know about the finishing crack being 5.10... as pumped as I was after the bolted section, it felt like 5.11. After onsighting through the bolted section, I pumped out here. Its definitely not 5.10 in the sense of the finish to a hard sport climb being "just 5.10", so you can run it out to the anchors. The gear is critical, and Steve's gear list is more accurate than the Rossiter guide. It's hard and kind of in-your-face, and you are way pumped after pulling the "crux" at... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 2, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry about the cryptic post above. What I meant to say was, "Not 11a... harder than W. Overhang." Different style climb, but this isn't an easy 11.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 1, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Not 11a


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11a)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 1, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: If you try to do this as one pitch, don't screw yourself, like I did, and clip the old bolt on the "direct" variation just before the traverse. The traverse is scary with uninspiring pro (think a more exposed 5.9 version of the Wisdom lip traverse). However, you will wish you had skipped the bolt when crippling rope drag at the crux overhang brings you to a screeching halt. Better yet, forgo "full value" and break it into two pitches.

Several hand sized cams will build an anchor right where... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 24, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Chris. Hard to onsight because of the location of the bolt at the crux. The bolts are literally 3-4 feet apart through most of the middle section, so it's hard to believe that one could be in a bad place... but yet there it is. As it is, the 5th bolt can only be clipped from smack in the middle of the crux... once the draw is hanging, it can be clipped by tall people before engaging the crux. For the onsight, the best option would be to skip the clip and finish the crux, then cl... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 23, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Most overrated "classic" in North America? High step, crimp, high step, crimp... repeat for 400ft until an interesting, slabby crux on the last pitch.

Calling this route popular would be an understatement. The bolts are very close together, thus the route attracts many parties with marginal experience... expect much waiting and clusterf**ks. I once showed up to do this climb early on a spring weekend and discovered 4 parties waiting at the base with another already on the route. I agree w... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Monet (5.11d)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 22, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: One of Shelf's best. The moves getting established on the face are pretty desperate.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : M&M (5.12a)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 22, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: The chossy start and circuitous finish detract from the spectacular climbing in the middle. Easy for Mural Wall 12a.


Page 4 of 12.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>