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Member Since: Jan 2, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2013
Contact Joe Collins


Point Rank: # 531
Total Points: 1,156
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Collins been climbing?










Contributions


All 828 | Routes 71 | Areas 10 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 281 | Posts 28 | Stars 312 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Dragon's Den : Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics (V5)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 22, 2007

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Comments: 2 stars??? C'mon, this is one of the best boulder problems on the planet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Final Eviction (aka Fre... (5.13)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: Freeline does the boulder problem start of Surf's Up, continues up the seam of Fraid line, then traverses right at the old bolt into the crux finish of the Evictor. Have heard the grade reported as 13a or 13b. I think it was sent several years ago if I'm not mistaken.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Pulley Mammoth (5.11+)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: Dirty, chossy, and caked in mud. The upper half, however, is quite good and redeems this from "bomb" status.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Fluorescent Gray (5.11c R)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: This is one of the best face climbs in the Boulder area. Reminiscent of the Eldo classic Aerospace.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Snake Watching (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 23, 2007

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Comments: A 70m rope will get you down with some shenanigans, but it's very close. Best to use the midway anchors.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : The Beast (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 29, 2007

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Comments: Leave the anchor as is. The Beast has existed for far too long as a route that ends at the roof to change things now.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 29, 2007

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Comments: A classic and memorable pitch of "hard" trad. Well-protected throughout, but the gear at the crux requires a bit of tinkering to get it right. Comparing to another local testpiece of similar grade, it is not as hard as The Evictor, but YMMV.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : The Eighth Day (aka MC 900 ... (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 29, 2007

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Comments: Ahh, The Eighth Day. A little belay beta: unless you don't mind backcleaning draws up to the arete crux at bolt 4, and climbing that crux with only 1 draw clipped (scary!), you will want to use double ropes. Clip in with the 1st rope with a locker and climb through the first crux belayed on that one. After that crux leave the first rope clipped to the 6th bolt, and continue belayed on the 2nd rope (preferably a 70m rope so that you can get down by lowering twice).

I disagree with Matt Samet... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Old Yellar (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 11, 2007

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Comments: This route has 4-star climbing with 2-star rock quality. Several key holds may not stand the test of time, particularly the key crimp where you move back left near the 2nd to last bolt.

Steepest route in the Front Range? The crux may be in figuring out how get a warm up for it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure (5.13b)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 7, 2007

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Comments: Without question a one-move wonder. Excluding the crux, good low-5.12 climbing.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 28, 2007

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Comments: Nearly all FAs at the Tunnel are courtesy of John Hymer. Some of the harder routes are courtesy of Chris Grijalva and Lance Hadfield.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Deeper Shade Of Soul (5.13)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 31, 2006

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Comments: Although this isn't a one-move wonder, it definitely favors the boulderer. The meat is a 6 or 7 move V6ish sequence just after the big cross through. Definitely more power than power endurance. To illustrate, I have heard some say that they think this is easier than The Example. Totally different style climb, but this is definitely way more powerful and less endurancey than The Example, which I consider a power-endurance problem. Nevertheless, this is certainly one of the classics of the gr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 18, 2006

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Comments: I highly doubt that this didn't see a 2nd ascent for 9 years until last summer. This is a strikingly obvious line on a very popular crag. Not to mention that there are probably 100+ people living in the Boulder area at any given time who can climb the grade. Most people wouldn't report it if they had redpointed a 12+ route.

As for the grade... the route is VERY condition dependent. When I got on this in July, I thought it was the hardest 12d that I'd ever been on. 30 degrees cooler this we... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: Which bolts are unnecessary and will be removed? It looks to me like only 2-3 hangers in the upper part of the crack section have been removed. All of the hangers at the start and finish appear to still be there. Were all of the bolts eschewed on the FFA and only gear used? Just trying to clarify what standard has been established.

This is a bad-ass looking rock climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Jitters (5.12c)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 9, 2006

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Comments: Beta: Skip the 6th bolt and pull straight onto the slab above the 5th bolt. The 6th bolt is poorly located and guides you on a contrived yet harder sequence pulling onto the slab out left. Now that the route has been extended out the bulge at the finish, bring a couple of long draws as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Lorax (5.13b)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 9, 2006

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Comments: What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Beer Run (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 2, 2006

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Comments: The runout to the anchors is more like 10+/11- and shouldn't be taken lightly if you are working on this route. It is extremely pumpy after pulling the Tombstone crux. Make sure you have it worked out before the send, or else a very disappointing 35 footer from the chains is likely. One of the best pitches ever.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Joe Collins When: May 18, 2006

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Comments: If this isn't the best 12 in Clear Creek, then what is? Sonic Youth? There are some harder 12d's at Rifle, but there are some easier ones as well. It's definitely harder than the majority of the 13a's I've done in the Front Range.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 30, 2005

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Comments: I agree with the AC. An anchor at the top of P1 is the very definition of a convenience anchor. Actually, I don't have any problem with certain convenience anchors per se, but Chockstone's first two pitches are really one pitch.So, in effect, this would be a midpitch bolted anchor. Silly. Just climb the first "two pitches" as the single 90-foot pitch it should be.

If someone really wants to do something useful in this area, then I suggest putting in bolts to replace the ridiculous anchor t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 8, 2005

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Comments: I looked up "Mine Hole Crag"... the route I was referring to is a different one: "Ruff Roof". Apparently there are more climbs up there than I thought.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 8, 2005

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Comments: The harder one was put up by Jim Hone and goes at 11d. He showed this route to me when I first moved to Boulder 4 years ago. I suspect he put up the other routes as well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 25, 2005

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Comments: In my opinion, this definitely deserves to be on the Best of the Creek list. As it was for me, this is a great route for those who are trying to break into leading sustained Indian Creek 5.10s, but don't necessraily want to do it in front of the masses at Supercrack/Donnely. I believe there is also a decent short 9+/10- route about 60 feet to the right.

However, from what I've heard, folks at the ranch have asked that climbers not climb on the reservoir side of Reservoir Wall (and also Tricks... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Foxtrot (5.11d PG13)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 8, 2005

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Comments: I think this is probably my favorite pitch on the West Ridge. The gear is tricky and strenuous to place, so it would be a very difficult onsight lead... but the gear is good throughout. I agree with the comments about the route's difficulty. I would think of the guidebook grade of 11d as more of an 11+ rating, if you know what I mean.




Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 24, 2004

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Comments: Has anyone heard a rumor of a new Eldo guidebook in the works? I heard rumors of a Sharp End full-color guidebook, like the David Bloom Indian Creek guide. Anyone know anything about this?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Zip Code (5.11-)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 18, 2004

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Comments: I would guess the rating on this would be somewhere between 11- to 11+, depending on your reach. If you are tall you will be able to reach all the way from the fingerlock to the jug while still on the good foothold.


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