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Member Since: Jan 2, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2013
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Point Rank: # 529
Total Points: 1,156
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Collins been climbing?










Contributions


All 828 | Routes 71 | Areas 10 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 281 | Posts 28 | Stars 312 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 20, 2009

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Comments: I agree the bolt placements on the meat of this climb are pretty high, but I think the vast majority of people will pre-hang draws by climbing the Hueco'd 5.10 to the right. As for the 2nd bolt, you are looking at either a serious groundfall if you blow the dyno, or at the very least a bad swinging fall into the arete. Unless you walk this grade in your sleep, you will most certainly want to have that one preclipped.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Occupied Territory (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: A friend of mine broke the key horn that is used to clip the 5th bolt recently. The 13a grade is probably a bit more accurate now. Amazingly, I think it has actually made the route better by extending the crux section and adding a bit of excitement in getting that bolt clipped (you now have to climb past it a bit).


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Sunny Side : Sunny Side (Right End) : Melanoma (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jan 11, 2009

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Comments: Does anybody know if any key holds on this route are broken or not? When I last visited this crag in 2001, this high-quality route was well chalked and a relatively popular 12+. On a recent visit, there was no chalk at all and I noticed some rock scars.

Edit: Rumor has it that a well-known Canadian climber visited here about a decade ago, and was completely shut down by this route. He guessed that the grade was mid-5.13. John Hymer, who I believe put up this route, gave me the full blow-b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Real Men of Genius (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: This route feels really forced. It's too close to the far superior Fornicator, and the bolts on the crumbly finish guide you on a pretty contrived path. The block at the crux is an accident waiting to happen. You have to yard on it pretty hard, and it was noticibly shifting/flexing. The developers may want to consider removing the bolts through this section so that it follows the crux part of Fornicator.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Freak on a Leash (5.12d)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 29, 2008

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Comments: Not only is this harder than many Boulder Canyon 13a's, it is most likely harder than EVERY Boulder Canyon 13a. I have heard that one local, who has sent several 5.14s, thought it was mid-5.13. Given its difficulty and severely sandbagged grade, I really wonder how many redpoints this route has actually seen. Excellent climbing though.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Joint Boulder : Longshot (V8)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 5, 2008

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Comments: It would be great if someone could clarify the group of problems on the awesome left arete of Joint Rock. This description of "Longshot" is very different from what is described in Phil's guidebook and from the bits and pieces I've learned from folks bouldering here.

It seems to me that there are several (at least 4) obvious variations. The easiest starts from the sloping dish hold and pulls onto the left slab at the midway point... probably V3ish. Continuing up the full arete from that poin... more >>


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : Red Sky Boulder aka Portrai... : Portrait of an Artist (V4)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 4, 2008

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Comments: Great problem. Glad to finally know the name. Thanks for posting. I thought V4 was right on... not sandbagged at all. As for Skyland grades being sandbagged, certainly the grades being posted on this site are sandbagged, but I've always thought the published grades or the ones told to me by locals were pretty soft.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area
By: Joe Collins When: May 21, 2008

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Comments: SKI FOUND IN CRYSTAL CHUTE, MOUNT SOPRIS

I located your ski in the upper part of the Crystal Chute the other day. Dynafit ski with an AT binding. Unfortunately, there was no way I was carrying it out with the impending mammoth bushwack back to the trailhead. I planted it straight out of the slope at the bottom of the hourglass. You should be able to see it with a good pair of binocs from HWY 133 south of Carbondale.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder : Center El Murray (V6)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 22, 2007

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Comments: The original poster gave this 2 stars? Ridiculous. This is another contender for best boulder problem on the planet.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Dragon's Den : Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics (V5)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 22, 2007

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Comments: 2 stars??? C'mon, this is one of the best boulder problems on the planet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Final Eviction (aka Fre... (5.13)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: Freeline does the boulder problem start of Surf's Up, continues up the seam of Fraid line, then traverses right at the old bolt into the crux finish of the Evictor. Have heard the grade reported as 13a or 13b. I think it was sent several years ago if I'm not mistaken.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Pulley Mammoth (5.11+)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 15, 2007

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Comments: Dirty, chossy, and caked in mud. The upper half, however, is quite good and redeems this from "bomb" status.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Fluorescent Gray (5.11c R)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: This is one of the best face climbs in the Boulder area. Reminiscent of the Eldo classic Aerospace.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Snake Watching (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Aug 23, 2007

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Comments: A 70m rope will get you down with some shenanigans, but it's very close. Best to use the midway anchors.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : The Beast (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 29, 2007

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Comments: Leave the anchor as is. The Beast has existed for far too long as a route that ends at the roof to change things now.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 29, 2007

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Comments: A classic and memorable pitch of "hard" trad. Well-protected throughout, but the gear at the crux requires a bit of tinkering to get it right. Comparing to another local testpiece of similar grade, it is not as hard as The Evictor, but YMMV.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : The Eighth Day (aka MC 900 ... (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 29, 2007

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Comments: Ahh, The Eighth Day. A little belay beta: unless you don't mind backcleaning draws up to the arete crux at bolt 4, and climbing that crux with only 1 draw clipped (scary!), you will want to use double ropes. Clip in with the 1st rope with a locker and climb through the first crux belayed on that one. After that crux leave the first rope clipped to the 6th bolt, and continue belayed on the 2nd rope (preferably a 70m rope so that you can get down by lowering twice).

I disagree with Matt Samet... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Old Yellar (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 11, 2007

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Comments: This route has 4-star climbing with 2-star rock quality. Several key holds may not stand the test of time, particularly the key crimp where you move back left near the 2nd to last bolt.

Steepest route in the Front Range? The crux may be in figuring out how get a warm up for it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure (5.13b)
By: Joe Collins When: Apr 7, 2007

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Comments: Without question a one-move wonder. Excluding the crux, good low-5.12 climbing.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 28, 2007

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Comments: Nearly all FAs at the Tunnel are courtesy of John Hymer. Some of the harder routes are courtesy of Chris Grijalva and Lance Hadfield.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Deeper Shade Of Soul (5.13)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 31, 2006

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Comments: Although this isn't a one-move wonder, it definitely favors the boulderer. The meat is a 6 or 7 move V6ish sequence just after the big cross through. Definitely more power than power endurance. To illustrate, I have heard some say that they think this is easier than The Example. Totally different style climb, but this is definitely way more powerful and less endurancey than The Example, which I consider a power-endurance problem. Nevertheless, this is certainly one of the classics of the gr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 18, 2006

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Comments: I highly doubt that this didn't see a 2nd ascent for 9 years until last summer. This is a strikingly obvious line on a very popular crag. Not to mention that there are probably 100+ people living in the Boulder area at any given time who can climb the grade. Most people wouldn't report it if they had redpointed a 12+ route.

As for the grade... the route is VERY condition dependent. When I got on this in July, I thought it was the hardest 12d that I'd ever been on. 30 degrees cooler this we... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: Which bolts are unnecessary and will be removed? It looks to me like only 2-3 hangers in the upper part of the crack section have been removed. All of the hangers at the start and finish appear to still be there. Were all of the bolts eschewed on the FFA and only gear used? Just trying to clarify what standard has been established.

This is a bad-ass looking rock climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Jitters (5.12c)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 9, 2006

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Comments: Beta: Skip the 6th bolt and pull straight onto the slab above the 5th bolt. The 6th bolt is poorly located and guides you on a contrived yet harder sequence pulling onto the slab out left. Now that the route has been extended out the bulge at the finish, bring a couple of long draws as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Lorax (5.13b)
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 9, 2006

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Comments: What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock.


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