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Member Since: Jan 2, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 2, 2013
Contact Joe Collins


Point Rank: # 532
Total Points: 1,156
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Collins been climbing?










Contributions


All 828 | Routes 71 | Areas 10 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 281 | Posts 28 | Stars 312 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Leaning Wall

UT : Zion National Park

Nov 7, 2002

Temple of Sinawava

UT : Zion National Park

Nov 4, 2002

North Astro Dome

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Astro Domes

Jun 26, 2002

South Astro Dome

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Astro Domes

Jun 26, 2002

Scenic Rock

CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake

Apr 26, 2002

Lighthouse Tower

UT : Moab Area : River Road

Apr 11, 2002

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Climbing the Gift in mid-winter sun, Jan 2001.

Climbing the Gift in mid-winter sun, Jan 2001.

Joe Collins : First Photo Album

Jan 17, 2005

Ahhh, winter in Vegas!  Photo courtesy of Andy Mayer.

Ahhh, winter in Vegas! Photo courtesy of Andy Mayer.

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Gift (5.12d)

Feb 23, 2004

About to whip off the last hard move.  Photo courtesy of Olle.

About to whip off the last hard move. Photo courtesy of Olle.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)

Feb 20, 2004

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Laying In Wait Boulder : Laying In Wait (V8)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Here's a good video of Laying In Wait:




Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: What is the Baldpate Inn approach beta? Thanks.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Anyone been up to Area A yet this season? Relatively clear of snow?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Barely Eagle (5.13-)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: It doesn't seem like this has seen much traffic yet. It's still pretty licheny, which makes a lot of the fingertip liebacking feel really desperate... a wire brush may be in order. I really don't think this is going to see any downgrading if that's to what the "Boulder 12d" is a reference. Seems pretty stiff to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Constant Gardener (aka ... (5.12)
By: Joe Collins When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: The section by the 3rd/4th bolts is unquestionably the crux, unless people are climbing the crack 4 feet to the right on the Devil. Solid 5.12 when you stay on the bolt line here. The description above calls the arete up high the crux, whereas I thought that part was only 11+/12-.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Brother's Lookout South... : Wisdom A.K.A. The Best Boul... (V4 PG13)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: I think the star and seriousness ratings that people are giving to problems at Three Sisters is pretty silly, but I thought this problem was outstanding.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : Northeast Mantle (V6)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Not sure why this has "Mantle" in its name. There is no manteling involved... just crappy, conditions-dependent slopers.


Location: CO : City of Boulder Open Space ...
By: Joe Collins When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: One of the real annoyances of living in Boulder is dealing with the perverse overregulation by city government on a variety of different issues. It seems that every few years or so, we have to deal with some plan to reduce access or further limit the presence of dogs in OUR open space. I fully expect that by 2030, no dogs will be allowed in open space and we will need permits to go for a day hike.

Edit: OK, I read the proposals in more detail. It is not as draconian as I thought based on the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Lorax (5.13b)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: I ran into a well-known local climber the other day in the Blob area who claimed that he had just removed the glue feature from the starting crack/seam. My guess is that it is now a bit harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : The Turning Point (V9)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: This is harder than Hueco's Mushroom Roof, which has been called the standard for V8 for 3 decades. Nowhere near V7.


Location: CO : New Shelf Road Guide Book A...
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 6, 2010

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Comments: While we're on the subject of dogs harassing kids at crags, I cannot think of a more inappropriate sport crag for toddlers than Shelf Road. At Cactus Cliff alone, I have seen 2 of the worst rockfalls I've witnessed in my 15 years of climbing.

I'm surprised to see a new guide since the area pretty much has saturated guidebook coverage already. I'm still really looking forward to flipping through it though. Looks great.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Sprout (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: The headwall is every bit of 5.12. You most certainly can pump out after pulling the lip... I know from experience.

Despite the multiple drilled/enhanced pockets, this along with Pump-o-Rama at Rifle is one of the great 13-minus endurance testpieces. With the broken hold, this thing could warrant an upgrade... its definitely harder than it was before.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a) : Photo
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: This is not a photo of the Orb. Bruce is on Sinopia.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : The Big Time : See Spot Run (V6 PG13)
By: Joe Collins When: Dec 24, 2009

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Comments: This is easily among the best highball boulder problems in N. America. The high moves are hard, but not desperate, and with well placed pads and spotters the fall is long but safe (I should know). Place your pads carefully because you land a lot farther back than you'd expect. Most people will find these reachy crimp moves up high are more in the V3 range than the V1/2 mentioned in the decription.

Now that the Mushroom Boulder is closed, this problem, Babyface, and Nobody Gets Out Of Here Al... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Example (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 21, 2009

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Comments: I'm floored by some of the comments above. Why in the world would you traverse to avoid the crux? And sharp? Welcome to Shelf. Just because this route seems to occasionally bout 5.14 climbers does not mean it is lacking in quality.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Milk Bone (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 18, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for taking those draws down. This is an extrememly popular area for hikers and Milk Bone is clearly visible right above the trail.

I'm really thankful for all the new routes that Matt, Chris, and Ted have had a hand in up there. Leaving draws hanging in a location as public as this could get the crag closed and possibly threaten the future opening of more coveted crags in the Flatirons.


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