Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Buttress made for a memorable ski trip -  pho...


Member Since: Jul 14, 2008
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Joe Brannan


Point Rank: # 881
Total Points: 736
Last Year: 77
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Joe Brannan been climbing?










Contributions


All 193 | Routes 20 | Areas 3 | Photos 91 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 4 | Stars 34 | Ratings 5
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Ice Nine (5.6)
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Note to the 5.6 leader... there are really two routes grouped into this one MP entry, which is the reason for rating discrepancy. Ice Nine as described in the Levin guide felt correctly rated at 5.7+ (and PG-13 IMO due to fractured loose rock). I'm not sure how the route described here climbs, which is around the corner to the west, but folks are aligned on 5.6. I will climb it next time and update this comment.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Second pitch makes this an even better outing. From a great hanging belay atop P1, it adds interesting face climbing to thought provoking dihedrals to hand crack (fixed #1 C4) to an offwidth (old #4 C4 was welcomed) and then even a short chimney move to top out! We did the walk off, I would rap next time for sure.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : West Face (5.9)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jul 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I've climbed quite a bit of 9 in the area recently, and this was a step up in difficulty. Felt more challenging than Dead Can Dance on Avalon or Hair City on the Bastille. Also harder than West Crack IMO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Be Here Now (5.8)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jun 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with George that if the large features left and right of bolted slab on upper portion are not used, this section had moves equal in difficulty and quality to Night Grooves. Also the lower section is best done straight up (Knowoneness bolt line) on great holds rather than stepping left at the roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Tomb of Sorrows (5.9)
By: Joe Brannan When: May 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: First bolt on arÍte start is missing its hanger as of 5-22-2013.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8)
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The approach was cool and the position was good, but the climbing on this was very mediocre. P1 is a class 4 chimney with a bit of either more chimney or a barb flake to finish. P2 starts from a platform below a dirty crack (committing move to get established above the belay) and only turns into good climbing (and only 20 feet of it) once on the crystal encrusted face above. I'm glad to have climbed it, but expected far more from a 4 star rated climb.

After reading comments above, I we definit... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Garfield Goes To Washington (5.8)
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Warning on the walk off, the back side of this wall is closed. Signs are posted everywhere reading 'Federally Closed Area.' Plan to rappel off the front.

Also, P3 makes this climb, don't miss it. Although its no harder than 5.6 the climbing is wonderful and has great position. As of July '12 there are 3 bolts to protect the top half of this pitch. The lower half of P3 is well protected as well (I used #2 C4, medium sized wire and red C3).


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall
By: Joe Brannan When: Aug 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Warning on the walk off, the back side of this wall is closed. Signs are posted everywhere reading 'Federally Closed Area.' Plan to rappel off the front.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Eight Crack (5.8 R)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jul 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I lead at a 5.9 level comfortably. Found this to be pretty simple to protect with small wires through the bottom 20 feet, then it sews up above. Use a zipper tri-cam at the base. Not an S or even PG13.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jun 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Want more 8 terrain? Here is a 5.8, 5.8, 5.6, 5.8, 5.8+ option with a 70m rope and no drag issues. We used the MacDonald-Bartlett start (P1, 65m). Next we stayed right of the standard 7 dihedral, finding good 5.7 and 5.8 crack climbing (P2, 65m). Terrain eases with some class 4 and then 5.6 stuff, trending right (P3, 70m). Aim for the base of a steep, lightly colored wall. This wall offered some heady 8 on chicken heads, a bit crumbly (P4, 30m). Then move to the south face for the awesome 8+ fi... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : ... : Photo
By: Joe Brannan When: Jun 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Just climbed this today, and this beta is a bit off. The standard route off-width and finger crack options are on the south face, which is around and to the left of these two cracks, which are on the east face.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Carter Route (5.9+)
By: Joe Brannan When: May 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Felt like 5.7 with one or two 8+ finger lock moves as the crack rolls out right. Cool tricam pocket just past the crumbly stuff. A fun route with good gear well worth a 20 minute investment.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jan 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like a pair of climbers had a close call with an avalanche while climbing The Shroud on 1-17-11. From the CAIC accident page:

avalanche.state.co.us/acc/acci...

"While toproping The Shroud ice climb, an avalanche from above the climb flowed through the area. The climber on the ice at the time was generally protected just below the top of the ice flow and the avalanche ran over him. The belayer was not anchored in and was swept from his stance at the belay station. The bela... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4) : Photo (Copy)
By: Joe Brannan When: Dec 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: That is The Shroud.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : The Garden : Just Do It (5.8)
By: Joe Brannan When: Sep 18, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Felt like 9 if you stick to the face after third bolt.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8) : Photo
By: Joe Brannan When: Sep 12, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The traverse halfway up on this image is significantly exaggerated. The crux pitch heads straight up from the right side of the dark overhang.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Joe Brannan When: Jul 18, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Great day out! OSFS 7:19 ctc. Leave rope, harness, rap kit and axe in the car next time. Buy approach shoes instead of lugging mountain boots everywhere.

Something useful to add:
If descending Donner Ridge, once you get to Spectacle Lakes outlet and begin following the stream, make sure you trend skier's right to a wide gully rather than following the gorge to the left. Make a note of this when the stream disappears into the rocks below the first waterfall, otherwise you will encounter some ri... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Mt Thorodin : Paddling About (5.5)
By: Joe Brannan When: May 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: If you follow the thin finger crack, it's not 5.5 or 5.6 but more like 5.7 (different route?). Great climbing on that first pitch to a sweet belay ledge with killer views. Second pitch is 5.5, head through the wall at the top for some vertical jugging. Walk off behind by following the ridge briefly north.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Joe Brannan When: May 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this on 5-22-10. It's in good shape, but don't be fooled, the ice can be climbed in one 70 meter pitch. We found consistent WI2 with two WI2+ steps. Long approach for that, but it's fun while it lasts. Dreamweaver is far better IMO. The east side of Lady Washington is very skiable right now.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Eagle Lake Ice
By: Joe Brannan When: Apr 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: After spying these shockingly blue flows on 4-10-10 from across North St Vrain Valley during some Denali training, I was pretty surprised to not find any further information in guidebooks or online. My curiosity got the best of me, so I headed back up the following weekend and checked it out. Most likely someone has climbed this stuff at some point, but maybe the long approach and moderate ratings has kept these unclimbed until now? Anyone have anything to add?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Left of Columbine Falls (WI3)
By: Joe Brannan When: Mar 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: In March 2010, the snow depth was right to use a neat belay cave at the base, bring a shovel and a camp chair and enjoy the view. The climbing was mostly WI3 blue with 9 meters of vertical up the middle. Nice piece of ice.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Columbine Falls (WI4)
By: Joe Brannan When: Mar 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Ice is a bit hollow and deep snow at the base leaves only one 6 meter vertical step, the rest was WI2. The fat left flow was much better this day.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Organ Pipes (5.6)
By: Joe Brannan When: Oct 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: After completing the climb in two pitches with the 5.8, we top-roped the upper options. I felt the left side crack was tougher than anything on Melvin's Wheel, unless you stem which made it much easier (5.8). Using the crack exclusively felt like 5.9. The 5.7 option had one move at that grade and the 5.6 was just fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Left Side (5.6)
By: Joe Brannan When: Sep 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I thought the thin run-out face climbing above the tree on P1 was the crux. The tunnel was made easy and unique by using holds on the ceiling. Stick to the fin/arete feature on the last 20 meters to the summit for some fun lie-back stuff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: Joe Brannan When: Sep 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely has more of a mountaineering feel than a pure rock route. The approach has tons of poison ivy so those who are sensitive beware. The first pitch is the only run-out really and I thought if felt like 5.6 on the face above the overhang. If the Third Flatiron right side is a 5.7, this first pitch is at least a 5.6. A fun squeeze chimney to get back out of the 3rd(?) notch. The 4th and 5th notches required some back and forth route finding. In the fog and rain, the soaked lichen made... more >>


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>