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Member Since: Jan 31, 2004
Last Visit: Jan 1, 2005
Contact Jody Langford


Point Rank: # 3,013
Total Points: 166
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jody Langford been climbing?










Contributions


All 53 | Routes 11 | Areas 1 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts | Stars 11 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Black Streak (5.10b R)
By: Jody Langford When: Sep 13, 2004

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Comments: "I'd be happy to replace the bolts (and clean lichen) "

Watch it John! Remember what happened the last time you "cleaned lichen"?!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Slate's Spire : Regular Route (5.5 R)
By: Jody Langford When: Aug 22, 2004

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Comments: Who left the Igloo hanging off the top of Slate's? Just curious. It is a few fee to the left of the top anchors and hanging over the edge from a piece of webbing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land
By: Jody Langford When: Jul 1, 2004

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Comments: Dave...that route would be "Step Aside Direct". The beginning is so smooth I never could figure it out. I watched a 5.13 climber struggle on it and he never could figure out the lower half.

John...I have a Bosch Annihilator if you want to use it. Only have 3/8 bits though in case you were planning on 1/2 inchers.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land
By: Jody Langford When: Jun 30, 2004

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Comments: My only comment is that I personally like TR anchors back from the edge for safety reasons. Long runners don't bother me too much. I actually like not being right on the edge while setting up the anchor. You are right about one thing, those TR anchors were one big CF smorgasbord.

BTW, take a look at the new TR on The Beach at Wagon Caves, they are well back from the edge for a good reason...that rock with all the sand, etc., is slippery.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Thin Man (5.9 R)
By: Jody Langford When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: Well, anonymous climber obviously doesn't want to be identified...I will identify myself and say that I agree wholeheartedly with his post...especially this, "...just because you can lead 5.13 doesn't mean you should put a 80 ft runout on a 5.7."


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Thin Man (5.9 R)
By: Jody Langford When: May 29, 2004

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Comments: He's right about the sandle castle analogy except for one important point...the sand castle is temporary and the route is permanent.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Thin Man (5.9 R)
By: Jody Langford When: May 27, 2004

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Comments: Mike, well put. I agree that not all routes should be tried by ALL people. However, in a place like SLO, where the climbing choices aren't that extensive, I think people putting up routes shouldn't overdo the R or X factor. If someone had come along way back when and free-soloed all the possible routes on Bishop's, does that mean that those of us who don't free-solo can't climb the routes? In my prior post I kind of went to the extreme but I just felt that there needed to be a little balance on ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Thin Man (5.9 R)
By: Jody Langford When: May 27, 2004

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Comments: Jon, I wasn't making an analogy to Kristin's comment. I was merely using her words, "...It's rather silly...it's just a rock".

Kristin, I don't think the FA'ist "owns" the route. The public does. I think the FA'ist has too much say in what is done with a piece of public property. That being said, I have never retro-bolted a route and never plan to. I just wish FA'ists would leave their ego at the door and think about people that might follow them on the route. Don't get me wrong, I don't thein... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Thin Man (5.9 R)
By: Jody Langford When: May 26, 2004

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Comments: Why is it so important to remove the bolt? I think Kristin's comment on re-naming climbs says a lot and can be applied here(although she used the comment in a different context).

"It's rather silly we name everything when you think about it. It's a rock. "

You could also say, "It's rather silly to get so worked up when you think about it. It's a rock."




Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Park Ridge Rock
By: Jody Langford When: May 25, 2004

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Comments: In addition to my last comment..the location of the chains was only good for Crespi Critter and Red Dawn. Using those anchors for a TR of The Slot created a nasty pendelum situation. I didn't mind it so much but some people don't like potential pendulums.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Park Ridge Rock
By: Jody Langford When: May 25, 2004

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Comments: Which "extra" bolts were removed? I believe there were some added near the rusty chains a while ago at the ledge about 10' below the top. In my opinion, that was a good thing as it is the most convenient ledge to TR from. Whoever added the bolts near the chains did a good thing as the chains were not very trustworthy in my opinion. That being said, before the bolts were added, I just set up the TR with natural gear in the slot a little up and to the left of the chains.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak
By: Jody Langford When: May 18, 2004

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Comments: Hiked up to Froggy Hill(I think that is what it is called) on the north side of Cabrillo to boulder. Well, at least I started to hike up there. Didn't get ten feet up the trail before I swiped ten ticks off my pant legs. Hadn't even brushed up against any grass. Forget that! I would rather of stepped on a nest of rattlers. I hate ticks! No climbing anything in the area until winter now. Any of the other Cerro's have them this bad?


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak
By: Jody Langford When: Apr 23, 2004

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Comments: Thanks John. I knew it wasn't sandstone...it is just that it has more of the texture of bullet sandstone than granite so I thought "granitic" was the wrong way to describe it. My guess(since my last geology class was in college in 1983) was that it was some sort of igneous volcanic plug. Don't worry, I don't call it sandstone...don't want to risk being called a "dork".LOL! Thanks for the info.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak
By: Jody Langford When: Apr 22, 2004

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Comments: I was wondering what kind of rock the peaks around here are...The guide says "granitic" but it is more like sandstone to me. I describe it as a cross between sandstone and granite. Anybody know for sure?


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Hollister Peak
By: Jody Langford When: Mar 29, 2004

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Comments: Yes, Morro Rock probably is a bunch of crappy rock. However, Hollister Peak is the premiere peak in the area and no access either. Oh well.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock
By: Jody Langford When: Mar 29, 2004

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Comments: No, doesn't really taste like chicken, it kind of tastes like a cross between Bald Eagle and spotted owl.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock
By: Jody Langford When: Mar 25, 2004

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Comments: Hey anonymous...there are ways of allowing climbing at certain times and on certain parts of the rock that would not threaten the bird. (i.e. periodic closures of the Rostrum in the Valley). You were very worked up in your post, try to relax a little bit and look at things with a level head instead of taking the "Chicken Little" route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock
By: Jody Langford When: Mar 24, 2004

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Comments: The peregrine falcon is no longer on the endangered list from what I understand. I was recently contacted by someone representing(I think it was the Access Fund?) and they were trying to get information on the history of climbing at Morro Rock. Apparently, there is a movement to get information together to present to the "powers that be" in an effort to open up climbing on Morro Rock. At the very least, maybe open up ceratin sections of the rock at times with the least disturbance to the nesting... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Wild, Wild Western Pinnacle... : Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12... (5.11)
By: Jody Langford When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: "Well, that is until people start adding bolts to existing climbs and then I get all fired up. Unless that someone was me, and then I'm sure I've got all kinds of excuses. "

Now THAT was hilarious!


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Wild, Wild Western Pinnacle... : Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12... (5.11)
By: Jody Langford When: Mar 13, 2004

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Comments: I think waaaaaay too much emphasis is put on FA's. If the guy that put it up wanted the "fame and glory" they should have made it clear to the climbing community when and where they put up the route. I really don't understand the fixation with FA's. When I do a FA, I don't tell anybody. That way I get a good chuckle when someone comes along years later and claims a FA on my route. I free-soloed a couple routes at the when I was 11-12 years old(didn't know I could get killed then). The guide book... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land : Step Aside (5.8)
By: Jody Langford When: Mar 6, 2004

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Comments: The route shown on the good Topo Photo is "Step Aside Direct". The actual route "Step Aside" follows "Kermit Crack" initially before cutting across to the left.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Wagon Caves
By: Jody Langford When: Feb 28, 2004

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Comments: Frank, I wouldn't even fel too bad about putting up lead routes, especially on the the west facing wall that drops down to the lowlands. In other words, if you are at the left side of The Beach you would be at the top of it. there are only a couple of places that hikers generally go and they usually follow the well-worn trails. Anything else would likely not be noticed, especially if you use colored hangers. the Indian artifacts are mostly in the cave underneath and to the right of Wagon Caves W... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Wagon Caves
By: Jody Langford When: Feb 28, 2004

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Comments: "Wagon Caves and all the rocks in this vicinity are known as "The Indians"

The Indians is a completely different area apporxiamtely 5 miles up the road, near the trailhead to Junipero Serra Peak.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land : Corner Route (5.4)
By: Jody Langford When: Feb 1, 2004

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Comments: I haven't ever rated a climb...but, compared to climbs listed as 5.7 in the same vicnity(like Red Dawn and The Slot), the Corner Route seemed a lot easier when I led it. That might mean that Red Dawn and The Slot should be rated higher, I don't know. Not really a big deal, I was just curious. The Corner Route was my first lead way back when, so if my first lead was a 5.7 instead of a 5.4, more power to me.:)


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land : Corner Route (5.4)
By: Jody Langford When: Feb 1, 2004

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Comments: I noticed on the topo photo on this site that The Corner Route was rated 5.7. In the guide it is 5.4, which is it? Just curious.


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