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mayflower


Member Since: Jan 12, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact JMo


Point Rank: # 590
Total Points: 985
Last Year: 378
Last 30 Days: 0
35 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has JMo been climbing?










Contributions


All (805) | Routes (6) | Areas (1) | Photos (162) | Comments (100) | Posts (171) | Stars (238) | Ratings (127)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Oaklands : Freedom of the Hills (5.10b)
By: JMo When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Bravo Colin! Every move is fun. Great route. And just like JC says, smile-inducing...which I needed after the kick this techy crag can deliver.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Oaklands : Sun Shower (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Really fun! Not sustained, but the move is harder than anything on freedom... Loved it! Top it out fo sho


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : ... : Photo
By: JMo When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: False prophet! But I'll probably think it is the greatest route on earth once I can climb it...


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : Speaking In Tongues (5.11+)
By: JMo When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: 11d/e?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Photo
By: JMo When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: i'm interested in the direct finish to double clutching... doctor says it is sometimes done at .11.... i was not aware of that. do you guys recognize it as a separate route? what does it go at? any trickiness to the pro above that 2nd roof? cause if that's another line that is just downright sweet....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Crescent Moon (5.10+ PG13)
By: JMo When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Several 11's up here don't give me the problems this route does... And on tricky tiny gear at the crux. Just sayin.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Phlegm Of Fury (5.11)
By: JMo When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic and underrated. More solid down low than much of left wall. You can enter the crux thin section protected by #3 in pod opposite the small pillar. I like green, red, then purple c3 after exiting the left splitter, plus the bomber black met/75 at the hand jam


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: JMo When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: Dj telle no tella Da truth. Big corner p1 anchors alive and well. Look down and climber's left- they're the shiny anchors for 3rd rap. Had 80. Think 70 would suck. That block above p3 belay moved inches when I stepped on it. Don't step on it and don't put a cam in there! Keep your rope from behind it by placing first piece high, and running it long.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon : ... : Whiplash (5.11)
By: JMo When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: This crag is stacked. Super fun moves on this one. Bravo JJ and Wade for your work up high in the sky. Shiny fat anchors?! You spoil us.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: JMo When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: m.youtube.com/watch?v=cyLdtG7KZvw&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3>>>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Photo
By: JMo When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Great topo! but this has the bolt on double clutching at the first roof, its actually at the 2nd....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : No Feelings (5.10+)
By: JMo When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Double cracks, so you don't need all the 3's if you use the right crack. At the roof, right is wrong left is right. But an orange metolious w long runner on right of roof feels good


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Ninja Warrior (5.10+)
By: JMo When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: It's better than 2 stars. Bit of walk, bit of scrambling, to immaculate dihedral with ninja moves and ninja gear. I feel like giving it four stars just cause I'm sorry about this route getting neglected....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Brother Of Fortune (5.10-)
By: JMo When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: thanks for the heads up, this is a great warm-up option (honestly, for some of us, it's a main event).... don't read this if you aren't looking for gear beta: after clipping the last bolt JJ describes above, you can get a blue metolious in a horizontal out left (if for some idiotic reason like me you forgot your purple metolious), then a .75 in a bit of a flare (maybe this is where the #1 works better?) and then a bomber .4 above this. definitely bring 3-4 long runners.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Spooky (5.9) : Photo
By: JMo When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Matthew- great point on the start location. It's a long way down if you fall off to the right! And to think, my belayer opposed any anchor.... Spooky indeed.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Magic Carpet Ride (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: May I confirm the bit runout comment? What a satisfying lead. If you don't fall clipping 5th bolt!

50 feet? Please. That would be more than one bolt every 10 feet. That ain't this route!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla...
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Bravo to Roy for his labor of love, creating this truly special place... Big climbs. Scary climbs. Bolted gentle climbs or hair raising routes, whatever floats your boat, it is here, up high in the sky. Be sure to walk lower jungle all the way through distant drum. Marvel at king kong. Just seeing that line made my palms sweat! Thanks Roy et al.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Jungle : Primate Primer (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Supremely fun moves on this one!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Jungle : Climbers in the Mist (5.10b)
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Fun! Plenty of face/holds, pretty darn civilized for a gaping maw, actually....


Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : The School Yard : Been Caught Stealin' (5.9-)
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Great mixed moderate! Thanks, BJ, for all the hard work. Stellar line.


Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : The Village Idiot (5.11)
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: I realized too late (as wife pulled rope) I think you can TR this line after leading Jenga Buttress Crack, if you like me weren't feeling sparky enough to lead it. Just a thought, 'cause, man, did this line look good!


Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : Jenga Buttress Crack aka 1... (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Very fun movement. 2 stars due to junky rock in spots. Highly recommend anyway, just saying don't expect splitter stone, and I provisionally disagree on singles. If badass, singles. If not, dubs.


Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Really nice little crag, actually. If you don't climb 12, you might just have more fun here than Rifle. I know, I know, crazy talk, but Carbondale rocks!


Location: CO : Carbondale : Hell's Gate/ Hagerman Pass : Slab from Hell : Taliban Blues (5.9-)
By: JMo When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Great job putting up this route! Took my wife up it, what a solid line in a spectacular setting. Seeing that I don't climb low-angle slab ever, I was pretty darn grateful for the time and expense that went into safely bolting this line.

Truly 0.4, 0.5, 1, and 2 will SEW the crack. Leave cams at top of p1 and grab on the way down. Rapping to first p1 anchors from p2 won't work even w 70 w/o a touch of shenanigans - knot those ends and be careful....


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Engagement (5.10+)
By: JMo When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: A bunch of people have climbed this climb and found it to be a special climb in a special place. One person who is really really strong, and awesome, and good, is hell-bent on letting everyone know that he has been on better climbs, including an 11+ trad route in Sedona.

I hope more people climb it, selfishly, cause I like it and it will get better and better with more traffic. That's all. Let me know when there is a better climb, easier than .11, with six pitches or more, nearby, and I'll... more >>


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