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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R) : Photo
By: jmeizis When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found that climb to be consistently scary. Anchors that move, holds that move, huge runouts on dirt. Great first climb in what's basically the Fisher's.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Brain Cramps (5.9+)
By: jmeizis When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This description seems to fit in with what I climbed and the topo from the Hubbel/Rolofson guidebook. If this isn't Brain Cramps then I don't know what is, because the climb right of it is too easy, the climb left is harder and there wouldn't be another climb between Brain Cramps and Satyr's Assholed but Straw Turkey is there. I think this is the right climb.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Nightime Madness (5.7)
By: jmeizis When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the chimney to the top was harder than 5.7. Maybe it was all the gear or something else but it felt solid 5.8. There was a slung block in the middle where it really pinched down.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Men Arete (5.8)
By: jmeizis When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would call it solid 5.9-. It's harder than Balance but easier than some of the 5.9s in the Garden such as Crescent Corner or Credibility Gap. Albeit it's different stone and a different style. I found it only a little bit easier than Corrugation Corner which I climbed after Menarete as well as after onsighting Dragnet, Full Monty, and Cheyenne.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Balance (5.8)
By: jmeizis When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has been extended. From the piton it now goes straight up the headwall on the climbers left. The difficulty is similar. You need a 60m to make it to the ground.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders
By: jmeizis When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Left a nice new guidebook there today. It's either soaked in rain or somebody grabbed it already, but since I live in Colorado Springs I guess it's my donation to somebody. Maybe I shouldn't have tried to pick up trash because I only ended up leaving some of my own.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: jmeizis When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed both the North Chimney and K-I on the same day back in April. The climbs are honestly like twins both formed from the same crack running through the entire formation it seems. K-I gets sun most of the day and was fairly sustained but I never felt like the moves got past 5.8. The questionable bolts on the infamous crux pitch had other gear nearby and were therefore not as scary as I thought they would be.
North Chimney on the other hand didn't feel very sustained but the cruxes were p... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: jmeizis When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed both the North Chimney and K-I on the same day back in April. The climbs are honestly like twins both formed from the same crack running through the entire formation it seems. K-I gets sun most of the day and was fairly sustained but I never felt like the moves got past 5.8. The questionable bolts on the infamous crux pitch had other gear nearby and were therefore not as scary as I thought they would be.
North Chimney on the other hand didn't feel very sustained but the cruxes were p... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R)
By: jmeizis When: Apr 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, my first desert aid climb, my first mud tower. Also my friends first aid climb ever. It took us three days to top it out. Grade III means three days right? The first day we drove out there around noon and had trouble looking for a road to drive towards it. Turns out the road is closed and by that time we decided it was too late to start up anyways. The next day we came back a little earlier and after carefully picking our way through the desert terrain for several hours we finally made it t... more >>
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