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Member Since: Apr 23, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 10,026
Total Points: 19
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: JLP When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: "There are two options. You need to finish what you started. I read with disbelief that you only got to the end of the crack where my pitons were. You moved the anchor, ok, fine. All that and you didn't push the route up through the blank granite above?? Why? You tried if over 3 days and couldn't do it. Not much of an effort Chris. On top of that, you placed bolts in the blank section before you even tried it! Unbelievable! You need to make more of an effort. I disagree that you ca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: JLP When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Hi Chris. After you remove the bolts, please post here in detail any aid climbing gear you think we might need to rap in and place after thoroughly rehearsing on TR, just like the FA. Looking forward to this bizarre bastard mix of old, new and fantasy proposed here. Thanks.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: JLP When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Thank you for your comments, TFB.

We don't call pitons reliable protection anymore, and we don't install artificial run-outs while drilling from a top rope. I respect the above named locals and their decision.

Just to be clear - you are saying you rehearsed on TR then pink pointed up to pins at the end of the crack, never making the bolted anchor? As suspected. Now you feel someone must climb the slab above to justify the change, thus completing your vision?

My 2c? No.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: JLP When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: JL - love your commentary - so fresh - but until we hear from Byrne, you are Don Quixote chasing windmills. First thing I'd be interested in hearing about is how the reported 13+ to the anchor went compared to the 12c below it. Meanwhile, can't wait to get on it. Thanks to CW for putting this up.