Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jul 31, 2007
Last Visit: Oct 23, 2014
Contact j.jaeger


Point Rank: # 2,043
Total Points: 285
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has j.jaeger been climbing?










Contributions


All 89 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 18 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 8 | Stars 13 | Ratings
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Five and Dime Area : ... : Hoagie in Heaven (V8-9)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 17, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Word. So it is not clear due to the angle, but it appears that Matt started on my start rather than the original start, which again, doesn't really matter. With the cuts in the video, we can't tell if Matt actually did the full top out, or if they cut out the ledge traverse that I described. Without video of pulling the upper bulge of dirty chossy death, I suspect they cut out the upper ledge traverse for aesthetics.

Nelson did a great job, though.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Punani (V7-8)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Ok... after some beta revelations, I guess V8 is more appropriate for the low start.

Also, a taller climber used a two finger pocket to do the crux move to the lip on the original start and it seemed to make the problem substantially easier than folks who need to use the sloping crimp with their right hand.... that may bring the V6 comment into perspective.

Finally, I still haven't found out if the short problem under the roof right of Gerbils has a name. I heard it was V7 and in warmer temps... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Troll (V6)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Finally found this one. Very cool, hueco-esque, starting hold... both hands and foot cam. Nice! Though the rock under the roof is bomber, the top out is very poor quality rock... be careful not to snap anything off and bash your head. I came close.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Five and Dime Area : ... : Hoagie in Heaven (V8-9)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for posting this, Tom.

FA - Jeff Russell. Named in memory of the late Ryan Sayers, who had himself been close to the FA of this rig before being tragically struck by lightning while en-route in the Wind River Range.

Start at the farthest left pockets on the main wall... right hand crimping in a pod and left hand on a lower mono/two finger.

The FA was done by climbing the tall, death choss face above the post-crux pod/ledge, up to a high ledge. The climb was completed by doing a terri... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Hickey's V7 (V7)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: For Cannibal Dance, you gain a right hand pocket, highstep left foot, left hand to a horrid pocket, then stab again to the ledge above. To be clear: Cannibal Dance aka Hickey's V7 climbs straight up. Thunderhead climbs that downhill face from low left to high right (ending at the top out as for Purity Control).

For what it's worth, my first trip to the Millennium Boulder, Hickey and Jade were there and pointed out "Cannibal Dance" as a stand start, which most believe is stiff for 7 as it is.... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bouldering (mile marker 268... : Mavericks Boulder : The North Shore (V9)
By: j.jaeger When: Jan 5, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Just history: on the FA, Jade went straight up, or perhaps even a tad left after hitting the crux move to the slots/edges. His original grade was V10, though most folks opt to top out Mavericks and avoid stabbing their spine through their face, which seems possible to exit Jade's way.

Topping out as for Mavericks seems to follow the diagonal direction of the line initiated by the first/crux move.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge : Pungase (V7-8)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 28, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Is the standard line a sit start or a stand start? The sit does seem to add a crux that is equally difficult, if not more difficult that the crux to the upper section if it is a stand start normally. Thanks!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Green Herbs'n Sam (V7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed... crux move is super fun and a good set up for the top out.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Red Makes Me Angry! (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Chip: I think 'reiger' was written in chalk on this block at one point, but I've never seen spraypaint. Then again, I do not have Sherlock powers of observation. Where did it appear do you think?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Truly Scrumptious aka The A... (V10)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: For what it's worth... a video. Note that DW's beta was different when he climbed on it due to a meddling block that was in the landing at that time. This block was removed in '07 by an unknown, which admittedly made for much better climbing.




Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Disembowler (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Jason... for what it's worth, this is an old Ryan Sayers and Marcelo problem they called The Disembowler due to stomach scrapes on the FA.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Under Your Clings (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Yes. DW stand, traversing out right to the standard drop-off is the old "Than's Problem" which was given V8, though 7 seems to be where it has settled in.

Is there a way to have an automatic email notification if folks reply to threads?


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Fountainbleau area : ... : Cave Direct (V6)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Tom.

The dab allowance was originally mentioned Bennigfield's guidebook, and seems to be consensus with ascentionists. I was eventually able to send this rig without the dab with an insane amount of try-hard.

To not dab, in addition to climbing it from the slightly lower start and broken parts of this climb as of summer '09, would make this rig harder than most 9s in RMNP.

Just sayin'....

As far as I know, this climb has never been done from the lowest left start from the left-f... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Deep Sea Angler (V7-8)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Wader, is this the same thing as "Under Your Clings", as posted below?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Seeing Squiggles Bloc : Deficit Disorder (V9+)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Word. I'm confused, though. No one said Manhattan Project wasn't an FA. Your description was good on that one. I was only pointing out that the "line" I did started the same as RP and finished the same as Seeing Squiggles, which itself off-routes the jugs that you mentioned in your comment. I think we are on the same page. I also climbed Manhattan Project after you posted it and enjoyed it.

It may soon get to the point where I need to try some more routes. I'm less worried about the endu... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Under Your Clings (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 18, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Is this the same thing that Wade describes as Deep Sea Angler?

Shomygod!

I guess it was an obvious variation.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Under Your Clings (V6-7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 18, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: For what it's worth, I had done this a while back. The late Ryan Sayers had done a similar line he called "Wet Carrot" (which is really a higher start to Formula 50, before Formula 50 had been climbed) and since this is essentially a harder variation, I referred to it as "More Wetter Carrot"... which I recognize is an awful name.

Thanks for adding this!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Seeing Squiggles Bloc : Deficit Disorder (V9+)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Here's a video of RP and Deficit Disorder with a little parody thrown in the beginning:


That should clear up any confusion.

I did Manhattan Project after Deficit Disorder and felt they were both about the same grade. The moves on Deficit are more powerful for me, but the tick-tack transition sequence of Manhattan Project was extremely pumpy.

If one must resort to the beta shown in the photos for Return to Squiggles on this site, I'd expect that Deficit Disorder w... more >>


Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Can anyone help me with information on boulders in this area? over the last few years, I've put a lot of scrubbing time in on a few of the main blocks. I was told that these appear in one of the old print guides, which I've never been able to see; however, a few folks who lived in the area cast doubt on whether many of the bouldering lines had actually been done. The amount of cleaning that they required before I climbed them could confirm this, or it may have just been a decade sinc... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Seeing Squiggles Bloc : Seeing Eye Bitch aka Seeing... (V7)
By: j.jaeger When: Nov 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks and thanks for posting this block... very fun!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Seeing Squiggles Bloc : Deficit Disorder (V9+)
By: j.jaeger When: Oct 31, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: No, Wader: starts the same as Recession Proof and then climbs Return to Squiggles, exactly as those climbs are described on this site.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Seeing Squiggles Bloc
By: j.jaeger When: Oct 12, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Though the lines are a bit contrived and the block is small, the stone is very high quality and the movement is top notch. Nice addition! ... a very good session block.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Seeing Squiggles Bloc : Seeing Eye Bitch aka Seeing... (V7)
By: j.jaeger When: Oct 12, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Seems like a few good right hand holds would be "off". Correct?


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Outre Salvo (5.14a)
By: j.jaeger When: Jun 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Nice video on mvm of this rig.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Gerbil in a Chute (V3-4)
By: j.jaeger When: May 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Around the right arete from Gerbils is a crouching or sit start problem.... It starts on two positive holds low. Power up to left hand sloping edge, then toss or hook your way to a mega jug before loose and juggy finish. I was told V7 and I suppose it could be. Anyone have a name for this one? It's certainly not classic, but worth doing when at the block.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>