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Member Since: Jul 13, 2011
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact jim.dangle


Point Rank: # 201
Total Points: 2,541
Last Year: 1,484
Last 30 Days: 158
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has jim.dangle been climbing?










Contributions


All 853 | Routes 91 | Areas 45 | Photos 163 | Page Improvments | Comments 141 | Posts 293 | Stars 110 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Shoreline Boulder 3 : Genesis (V5)
By: jim.dangle When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Great Problem. Taller people may have an advantage at the finish but pulling up off the ground and getting situated is still hard. Also, for full value start with your ass as low as possible right under the arete.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Granola Boulders : Law Abiding Citizen (V4-5)
By: jim.dangle When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The grade seems height dependent. You can also do a full sit but starting on the half buried rock at the base and reaching up into the flake. The sit improves it but doesn't add much to the grade. In some ways this is the best problem using this cool feature.


Location: MA : Milford Bouldering : The Bloodsport Boulder : The Best Buy (V12)
By: jim.dangle When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments:


Video of the FA.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Whack-A-Mole (5.11a/b X)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Quote from Strand: "I have led this several times..i guess that means I'm a bit fucked up."

It means you're fucking awesome, John. Well within your abilities. I thought for a second about leading it but the climbing up high is still pretty thin. There's too much time to stop and worry on slabs. Soloing them is seriously heady and bravo to anyone that can do it.

Jim


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Duet Direct (5.10+) : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Are there any routes up either of the aretes visible here?


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Effigy (5.11b)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Nice!

Did you guys bolt this on lead or rappel? Not a loaded question; just curious.

Jim


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Whack-A-Mole (5.11a/b X)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: My favorite statistic for this short, dirty, quasi-death route is that John Strand has the second AND third ascents.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Town Line Boulders aka Sout...
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: This area is sometimes called South Woods.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : The Valley : Billy Breathes (V3)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: This problem deserves two stars. It's really short (certainly under 10 feet) but fierce and a good examination at the grade. It's perfect for a solo circuit.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : The Fishnet Boulders : Fishnet Crack (V2)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 19, 2014

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Comments: This problem has undoubtedly been done before.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Haskell Pond AKA Redrock We... : Brand New Love Boulder : Seldom Straight Crack (V1-2)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Who knows who first climbed this thing, but I get the feeling this crack has been visited by locals for many a year.


Location: NH : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Nice, Mark!

Looks better than the Northend or the Barber Wall.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Wizard Of Oz (5.12c)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Handren's book lists this as 11c. The second pitch is listed as 11a (so the first pitch is the crux). The pitch descriptions-- meager as they are-- resemble each other in both MP and Handren's guide.

Anyone have insights on the discrepancy? I have never been on it.

Jim

P.S. This is also a two starred route in Handren. Seems like a worthwhile route to check out.


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : New Blood (5.12a/b)
By: jim.dangle When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: Is the crux of this protected by the pink tricam [gulp!]?


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : The British Are Coming (5.9 A3)
By: jim.dangle When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Would be nice to see an actual description of this putative 4 star route!


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Wink Van Ripple (5.11)
By: jim.dangle When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: I upped the grade on this a little, because it getting cleaner and is remaining pretty hard. Unlike Slip Van Winkle, which has pretty defined crux, this remains tricky throughout. Still needs some cleaning though.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Trailside Boulder 2 : Total Recall (V4)
By: jim.dangle When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: This one of the better V4s around. Not a lot of subtlety here, just pretty burly, and definitely no gimme at the grade.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Granola Boulders : Wonton Soup (V4)
By: jim.dangle When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Masshole slab aficionados might call this four stars.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Practice Face (right end) : Boardwalk (5.5)
By: jim.dangle When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Quote: "Could you get away with leading this on a set of nuts and Camalots from sizes 0.3 to 2?"

Absolutely. It was one of my first leads, I am not especially brave, and I only had a few cams.

Get on it!

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Arrowhead Cliff
By: jim.dangle When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Please Note: Public access has been lost to this area.

The pull-off on Concord St. mentioned in the area description above is now clearly posted with a "No Trespassing" sign and should be avoided. Though the cliff itself is part of the the Great Ledges property of the Essex County Greenbelt Association, it is completely encircled by private land and the access granted to the ECGA does not extend to the public.

A real shame.

Jim


Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Left Cliff : White Owl Face and Laughing... : White Owl (5.11d)
By: jim.dangle When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Be great to get some pics of this route for this page.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Cape Ann Ice and Mixed Clim... : Down Under : Down Under Bouldering Slab : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Can't rotate for some reason???


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Cape Ann Ice and Mixed Clim... : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: For some reason, I can't rotate this.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Colchuck Balanced Rock : The Scoop (5.11c) : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: This looks amazing.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: "Stay thirsty my friends."


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