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Member Since: Jul 13, 2011
Last Visit: moments ago
Contact jim.dangle


Point Rank: # 192
Total Points: 2,677
Last Year: 990
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has jim.dangle been climbing?










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All 911 | Routes 103 | Areas 45 | Photos 162 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 159 | Posts 289 | Stars 133 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge
By: jim.dangle When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: A word about the approach, which was found to be a little confusing: The Welch-Dickie trail runs counter-clockwise in a loop over both mountains passing over the slabs towards its end. The fastest way to the slabs therefore is to head clockwise around the trail. So from the parking lot head to the left up the wide unmarked path. After a tenth of mile or so you will see a sign for the Welch-Dickie trail on the right. Take this and the slabs are maybe a bit less than a mile along.

Also, t... more >>


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock
By: jim.dangle When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: There is a ton of problems in this area. Few are that great, but the approach is easy, the parking is legal, and a good handful of the boulders are high and exposed so they dry very fast after rain. On the otherhand, avoid this place on hot, sunny day.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Silo Boulder : Android (V3-)
By: jim.dangle When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: There is good full sit of this that goes at V3 or so and really improves the problem.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Conifer Boulder : Pallbearer (V5-)
By: jim.dangle When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: Shorty but a goody.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Storm Boulder : The Storm (V7)
By: jim.dangle When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: I did a version of this using the same beta described by Old Timer except I reached for a shallow solution pocket above the black crimp with my left instead of the admittedly cooler black crimp. Grade is also probably height dependent at the start (if you are taller you can reach a better part of the left starting hold). Seemed V5-V6 to me, but I was pretty burned out from repeatedly trying it a much harder way.

Still a great line.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Trailside Boulder 2 : Total Recall (V4)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This one of the better and harder V4s around. Not a lot of subtlety here, just pretty burly, and definitely no gimme at the grade. May be harder if you are tall as I had to campus the opening moves.

It seems like there are two variations. One jogs left and then heads up for an awkward, committing topout. The other traverses left along the good slopey rail and joins Supersized thus avoiding the tricky topout but adding a couple of moves. Both are good.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Doug's Roof (5.11 V2)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Fresh shit smeared all over this as of today 9/27. It's disgusting, and the whole area smells.

It's really disappointing as this climb is local classic, and I think may even be mentioned in Yankee Rock and Ice.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Splitter (5.9-)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: The transition in the upper crack protects well with microcams.

Hard route to grade, because there is really only a short tricky section and the rest is straightforward.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Down Under : Adventures with Kate & Enoc... (5.7+)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice route and a great addition if still a little dirty. The upper crack was particularly fun. We did the direct start and still felt 5.7 and pretty G-rated and not at all the crux. You do have to make a move or two, but there is a good stance where you can place a fine, high small cam.

Jim


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Plateau Boulder : Flight of the Nuthatch (V7)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: Nice send, Dan.

I can sit start this reaching up to the arete with my left and the bottom of the ok crimp with my right, but the start way under the lip seemed really hard.

Jim


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Stone Tower area : Slant Right Boulder : Comment : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: Probably Eastern Phoebe chicks.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : The Schwartz (V3-4) : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Going more or less straight up to ok crimps or the near vertical right slanting crack seems doable at maybe grade harder and could eat your fingers.

I went to the sort of horn visible in the picture.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: The little clusters of boulders that make the main area here is one of the best spots around for a little session. You can park close (look for a pull off past the cemetery) so its minutes from the car. The climbing is pretty varied from overhanging jug hauls to steep crimping to slabs and although there is no real classic problem the rock is such that there are numerous variations possible anywhere from V0 to probably V10.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : Badass (V4)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: There is an easier way to get up this face, but the way Old Timer suggests is definitely the best value. Also, looks like a lower start down in the cave that would add a couple grades.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : One-Trick Pony (V4+)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Another very height dependent line in this area.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : Early Buzz (V4-5)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: The stand is pretty wingspan dependent (if you are tall you can reach between pretty decent holds to start). The sit is just freaking hard though.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : Which City (V2-3)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Several variations possible on this face, so this line has very likely been done before. Nevertheless it is fairly distinct.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : The Schwartz (V3-4)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: This route has likely been done before.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mount Jacob Boulders : The Cemetery : The Force (V7)
By: jim.dangle When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: This is a cool problem. It doesn't look that bad, but while the crimps are pretty good, the feet are terrible throughout.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Shoreline Boulder 3 : Genesis (V5)
By: jim.dangle When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: Great problem. Taller people may have an advantage at the finish, but pulling up off the ground and getting situated is still hard. Also, for full value, start with your ass as low as possible right under the arete.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : Granola Boulders : Law Abiding Citizen (V4-5)
By: jim.dangle When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: The grade seems height-dependent. You can also do a full sit but starting on the half buried rock at the base and reaching up into the flake. The sit improves it but doesn't add much to the grade. In some ways, this is the best problem using this cool feature.


Location: MA : Milford Bouldering : The Bloodsport Boulder : The Best Buy (V12)
By: jim.dangle When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments:


Video of the FA.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Whack-A-Mole (5.11a/b X)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Quote from Strand: "I have led this several times..i guess that means I'm a bit fucked up."

It means you're fucking awesome, John. Well within your abilities. I thought for a second about leading it but the climbing up high is still pretty thin. There's too much time to stop and worry on slabs. Soloing them is seriously heady and bravo to anyone that can do it.

Jim


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Duet Direct (5.10+) : Photo
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Are there any routes up either of the aretes visible here?


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Effigy (5.11b)
By: jim.dangle When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Nice!

Did you guys bolt this on lead or rappel? Not a loaded question; just curious.

Jim


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