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Location: AZ : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : Elephantiasis (5.10 PG13)
By: Jimbo When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route twice. I thought the rock was pretty good overall. (Way better than B-Cubed)
This route is a good test to see if you want to do Crater Genetics.
Crater is harder more run out, but the rock is a bit better. IMO
We did replace some of the badly drilled bolts several years ago, and did a variation to the refrigerator death block chimney pitch.
The variation busts left under the chimney past a couple of bolts with 5.10 face climbing on solid rock. You end up at the sam... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : The Breeze (5.11c)
By: Jimbo When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11a if your tall with a plus ape index.
10d is a "bag" of Olympian proportions.
I think Planet Eater is easier and better than the Breeze.
I'm old and wise so I know what I'm talking about.
Thanks for the new biners Luke!! Great example for all to follow. (hint, hint)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Ravens : El Curvo (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this with a 70 meter rope a few days ago. You can lower into the chimney above the big chockstone and hit terra firma. The belayer needs to be directly under the 1st bolt and paying attention to the end of the rope as there is only a foot or two to spare. We also cleaned all the draws but the last one lowering off the chains with a 70.
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Redneck Protester (5.11a/b)
By: Jimbo When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't use thin holds, I specialize in low angle jug hauls.
Hope to spend a several days at ISO this fall. Great area!!!
Strong work by all the FA folks.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Squaretop : Cragaholic's Dream (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Der-AH!! Same with the flake above.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : End Pinnacle : Endgame (5.10a) : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that variation more like 10d.
Frigging wanker Catalonians!!!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Ravens : El Curvo (5.10+)
By: Jimbo When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The stemming at the top and the bottom are all part of the route. You did it like you should. Good on ya.
I wonder if you could lower straight down into the upper part of the chimney with a 70 meter???
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Transmitter Tower : Free Roaming (5.8)
By: Jimbo When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did every route here. All of us thought the bulge bit was the hardest moves on the entire wall. 5.8???? Maybe a big flake broke off or something.
Silly route all in all.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Split Rock : Altzheimer's Onsight (5.11a PG13)
By: Jimbo When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did some 10c thing back in the split a while back. Pulling the roof on that was much harder than Alzhiemers On Sight.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : 5.11d R (5.11d)
By: Jimbo When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is maybe 11b, if you do every thing in your power to make it hard. I don't get the R rating either.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Despondent (5.11+)
By: Jimbo When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I concur, .11a tops.
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Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: Jimbo When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's always seemed interesting to me that the local tribes get upset with climbers on the tower in June but the platoons of snot nosed, yelling and screaming kids, throwing coke cans into the talus doesn't seem to bother them.
Why, because tourists spend money at the tribes establishments and climbers usually don't.
I'd have way more respect for the tribes "religious" position if they (and the park service)closed the Tower down completely in June. As long as tourist dollars continue to usurp... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Lurking Troll Tower???? : Right Route (5.11)
By: Jimbo When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I concur, a must do if you're on your way to, or from, the Troll Wall.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Lurking Troll Tower????
By: Jimbo When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ouch!!!!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Not So Steep
By: Jimbo When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Larry,
Feel free to pony up the $13.00 to buy a set of fixe rap rings, then go on out there and replace the "cheap bastard" anchors. Of course by the time you do this on twenty or thirty routes, or in Tony's case several hundred routes, you'll probably start looking for a cheaper alternative also.
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Location: AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : The Wizard (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jimbo When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photo Chels, you an use my camera anytime.
I gotta find a cool helmet to wear like Eric's.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Lost Hawk : Scooby Doobie (5.10-)
By: Jimbo When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Susan, it's a bit of a bag at .10-. I would give it .10c.
Nice addition to the Hawk, with interesting moves until it gets really easy for the last 15 feet.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hitchcock Pinnacle : North Face (5.7)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the other hand the climb is only 40 feet long and you can see every move from the ground. A little less time staring at the guide book and a little more time looking up at the actual route may have given you a clue as to what you were getting yourself into.
Learn to rely on yourself, more than a guide book. You'll be way better off in the long run.
Climb safe!!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Georges Peach (5.9)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now, now Geir,
Just because we don't like something doesn't mean we can destroy it. "W" ain't the sheriff anymore!
This route is pretty silly but people do climb it. So let it be.
It's not doing any harm.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Kit Kat (5.8)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Daryl, those of us that do need to protect each other from those that don't. Just doin' my job.
I glad it all came to a delightful conclusion.
Cheers,
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow...
By: Jimbo When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just tried Eric's link, works fine.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Trailing Edge (5.9+)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The moves out the roof at top of the dihedral are definitely 5.9.
I don't own a #4 camalot (If I did I might be tempted to use it) hence the 1st bolt.
I climbed this route a few weeks ago and Geir skipped the second bolt and placed gear also. When I pulled his "bomber cam" a slew of crumbly rock from inside the crack came with it.
"Don't Grab Here" is the best route on the control tower, IMO.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Kit Kat (5.8)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All is forgiven. Making a call to Afghanistan to add a bolt is way beyond the call of duty.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Apr 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tea,
Which part the whole "natural eco system" don't you understand.
If I ever run into you on a trail suffering from a snake bite, I hope you don't mind if I walk on by.
Stay in the concrete jungle were you belong.
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Peacenik (5.12a) : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Apr 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That big ass Sunto watch is way to heavy for a hard route.
Does she really need to check her elevation gain every 10 feet???
Nice pic tho....
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