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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : The Gallery
By: Jimbo When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Good on ya Luke!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : It's A Wanderful Life (5.11+)
By: Jimbo When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jesse Shultz on sighted this route a few weeks ago and he led it as one pitch.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Apr 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't understand. If there's only one bolt how do you know where the climb goes??
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to go Marcy!! That crack looks kinda fat!!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Gearhead (5.10- PG13)
By: Jimbo When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Geir,
Leave it up. Maybe someone will come along and clean the loose stuff off instead of just bitching about it.
I've led this twice now. I think the bit of loose adds to the climb.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We could see Sarah Palin's house from the summit!!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Jimbo When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm totally on your side about retro bolting routes with out the FAist permission, Joe. But I do think it is incumbent upon the FAist or the community at large to chop the offending bolts in a timely manner. You don't live in Tucson so your off the hook. Consequently chopping the bolts became the responsibility of the climbing community. For 26 years this community has decided not to chop the bolts for whatever reason.
For 26 years climbers have been enjoying this route with all the added bol... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Jimbo When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe,
If Maestri had hand drilled all those bolts they would still be there and climbers would still use them. The fact that he left his compressor on the route is what really upset people.
Also a little crag on a Tucson hillside cannot be compared to one of the proudest granite faces in the world.
I have no problem with you coming to town and chopping the bolts on Chihuahua Power yourself. I would have done it myself the first time I climbed it in 94 if I had known that the bolts were adde... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Mar 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The wind was howling too. It was the shadow of death.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Flogging the Bishop (5.12b)
By: Jimbo When: Feb 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You don't need a second opinion to pry a loose block off.
I think the block your talking about is gone now anyway. The top is quite a bit harder now.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Kibbles and Bits (5.8)
By: Jimbo When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems pretty obvious that this route is right next to that other one.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang : No Mas Boot (5.9+)
By: Jimbo When: Jan 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: John,
This is the first line we did at the stang. It was the first route I did after getting out of a moon boot I had had on for six weeks. I remember thinking the gear was adequate but I was glad to get the bolt in.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang
By: Jimbo When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is so weird Scott, I climbed here yesterday, it was 63 in town, and we saw no bees at all. We warmed up on Mustang Sally and Stinkbug Cowgirl then went and did Pencil Dick and Nova Super Sport. Didn't see any bees as we walked by Tradlads.
Climbed here two weeks ago with Doug on a 65 degree day in Tucson and we saw no bees that day either. In fact wee climbed Men in Funny Hats right next to Beeware. Not even a buzz.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've climbed at the Stang two days in the last two weeks. Never saw a bee.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Little Meteor Shower (5.9+)
By: Jimbo When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yup. That's about it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Jimbo When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, this is a fun discussion.
I think it is incumbent upon the local climbing community, if substantially outraged and the FAist isn't around, to chop a retro-bolted route in a timely fashion. FA 1987- outrage 2013 that's 26 years if my math is right.
Sorry Joe, the Compressor route and Chihuahua Power are apples and oranges.
The 80s and early 90s were a sad time on the Lemmon with lots of chipping and retro-bolting going on. The new ethos has gone far away from this, thank the gods. I th... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : Let's Make a Deal (5.11)
By: Jimbo When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climbing but not for the weak hearted. My thanks to Geir for leading the two crux pitches so I could have a safe and fun time on this route. There are some sketchy flakes on the 5.11 bit on the second pitch, and the rock quality in the crack section of pitch four is less than inspiring, making for less than optimal gear placements.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: She's even got extra slings wrapped around the bottom of her shoes.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr... : Sunnyside : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I assume on route 3 you sling the first arm on the saguaro then have to run it out to top of the saguaro. The step across from the top of the cactus to the wall looks dicey.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little duck tape and that cord is ready to lead on again.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Jimbo When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if a big Alien would work in that slot. I know a tricam would, if they make them that big??
I agree with Andy the crux moves are way harder than 5.10.
I remember I was so excited to be alive I didn't notice any choss up higher because the gear was good.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : The Pyramid
By: Jimbo When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's mostly lay backing with about 3 reel hand jams. The gear is bomber on this route. The rock is not. It got blasted by the fire. Lots of crumbly kitty litter for the first 30 feet. I cleaned on it for over an hour, several more hours would be required to make it a bit better.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : The Pyramid
By: Jimbo When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left angling crack is more like 5.12a. There may be a 5.10 move on it in the middle though. Not even Grossman and McEwen sand bagged that bad.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : "Moms Rock" (5.11)
By: Jimbo When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tomily I have your quick draw. PM me if you want it back.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Photo
By: Jimbo When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to worry, Cody, Joe can handle it. The crux is actually much lower down. This section is no big deal. There are good feet and holds around the corner.
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