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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Frodo Lives (5.9)
By: Jim Knight When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Keep in mind, that this was area is not bolted like many sport climbing crags, and I make no excuses.
So.. here's what you can expect:
1. The climbing is generally easier (5.10 & under).
2. The exposure up there has a pucker factor (alpine-like setting) so cowboy up.
3. The bolts are moderately spaced but right where they're needed (back it up with pro if you need to-with no shame (single sizes, fingers to hands) so it's no place for doggers.
4. Expect loose rock (re-read #2) wear a helme... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Dipthong (5.7 PG13)
By: Jim Knight When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's always been crappy, (clue: Lichen?) and I never considered it a particularly distinct line, so I didn't bother cleaning it. I climbed it solo (not recommended) as a way to the arete when DJW went in years ago. I had seen it climbed before I'm-Not-Lichen-This was a bolted route (on pitons-omg!) so I didn't steal anything, there's nothing there to steal. FA unknown.
Hmm, if you are poaching some of the bolts from the nearby route and suggesting that they be used because your pro fell out, wh... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Dipthong (5.7 PG13)
By: Jim Knight When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Been there, done that. Several times in fact. With a gal named Claire during (I.D. Claire) and while creating DJW, again with Andy. And sorry, it's been lead climbed before there were bolts. It's a squeeze for sure. I'd call it an exciting variation to what's already permanently there, but wouldn't call it my own.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : I'm Not Lichen This (5.6)
By: Jim Knight When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where did the FA credit originate? I don't think this was one of Dave's routes. His alu hangers were stamped DPH and he used rawl splits exclusively. Also, this route was put up long after he had gradauted and left the hood. The truth is out there...
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Location: UT : Utah: Rock Canyon Crag Day ...
By: Jim Knight When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No the gate will not be open. The materials will be up there ahead of time, just bring yourself, your tools, water and lunch to the Tinker Toys area, near the Green Gate/Green Monster area. That's the area we will be working on. Thanks!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress
By: Jim Knight When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Secondary bolts & hangers have now been added to the top of Trilogy Buttress for these routes: Lord of the Slings, Frodo Lives, Shadow & Flame. Enjoy.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress
By: Jim Knight When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper pitches on Trilogy were intended to be walk-offs. Rap if you wish, just prepare to leave long slings. Midway ring anchors are found on Frodo Lives and Shards of Narsil for belay/bail options.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : Jungle Rot Slot (5.8 PG13)
By: Jim Knight When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, thanks for the lovefest on a ridge that has had more variations on ascents than Mathes Crest in the Sierras, but consider that most any way up the ridge (right, left or center) has already been done a long time ago. Like decades. And I might add, they were done ground up, no cams, with slings and passive pro.
I had at least 4 ascents in this area, half of them ropeless and never the same way twice. This was climbed in the 60's. I pulled old pitons out of the rock that were US Army soft iro... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress
By: Jim Knight When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mat Gover and I found a nice set of quickdraws in place while climbing on Trilogy. It looked like someone had an epic. Name the pitch and describe the draws and you can get them back. best, JK
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5) : Photo
By: Jim Knight When: Jan 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh yeah, I have the hat too.
I wear it while using carbon fiber leash-less tools.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : North Creek Canyon : Frozen Assets Ice Climb (WI5) : Photo
By: Jim Knight When: Jan 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 72 cm bamboo Chouinard piolet. It was an 80, but I cut it down and replaced the spike and ferrule. I still have it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Shadow and Flame (5.10b)
By: Jim Knight When: Dec 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Perrin & John,
Thanks for the compliments on the route. And thanks for the additional cleaning. I tried to get as much big loose stuff removed as possible while building the route but it really cleans up with traffic. Yes, there's some exposure up there! I spent a lot of time hanging from 7mm ropes making sure bolts were relevant and sound and the route a safe but committing line. That was as thrilling as climbing but way more work.
As with the rest of the Trilogy wall, you can supplement ... more >>
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Location: Granger : Routes : Photo
By: Jim Knight When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: AC/DC Wall
Rock Canyon
Routes (L-R)
1. Thunderstruck 5.11b FA: Andy Knight, circa 2001
2. Back In Black 5.10b FA: Andy Knight, circa 2001
3. Project (needs anchors) Aaron Wilkenson, circa 2001
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