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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : East Face/Willy B (5.8 X)
By: Jim Berg When: Aug 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux pitch starts up the short crack on the arete of the dihedral. A # 3 Camalot [adequately] protected the crux moves onto the slab. Above that it's spicy but only 5.6 in spots. Nice pitch. A 60m rope is just long enough to reach the anchors at the top.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Center Route (5.6)
By: Jim Berg When: Jul 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A # 4 Camalot is not big enough for the crack during the crux section on the last pitch but did come in handy. Managed to back clean it a few times after finding nut placements in the chock stones. Ended up carrying it all the way to the belay. Not sure a # 5 would do any better. A big bro might be the ticket. We climb the crack until obvious holds out on the arête beckoned. Fun & super exposed. Just not much gear.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Kor's Door (5.9-)
By: Jim Berg When: Aug 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 60-meter rope it's only 2 leads up to the Traverse on Alexander's chimney. One can do the traverse on Alexander's in reverse & rap from below the big chockstone to a good rap station on the west wall of the chimney. You need two ropes for this or you need to be prepared to fix an old rap station 1/2 down the rap from below the chockstone. It is then one short rap to the ledge system Kor's Door starts on. If the chimney was dry it would be an easy down climb, but it's always wet in the... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Religion (5.8 R)
By: Jim Berg When: Jul 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: One can also start the climb by bridging between the BIG block & the main wall. The gap was a little wide for little ol me to comment to jumping across. Note that doing it this way you will not get in any gear until to reach the crack system that is 15 to 20 feet off the deck. I recommend bring a few extra big pieces for the first pitch is wide. I split the first pitch into two for lack of having extra big gear. A couple #3 & #4 Camalots would have been nice to have.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : East Prow (5.9)
By: Jim Berg When: Jun 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could not find the way to the lower roof & ended up doing a variation to the left. Way out left is a small left facing dihedral. A horizonal break in the right facing system used on the first pitch will lead you here. This happens as you approach the roofs on the second pitch. I ventured out left looking for this variation & notice the rock to the right of the left facing dihedrial was covered with chicken heads. Instead of taking the left facing dihedral (which looked 5.8/5.9), I went up... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock
By: Jim Berg When: Oct 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a big pool of water on the top of the rock that one can pump water from. Might be scary during a drought year, but in past years I have used this as a water source.
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