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THe Knows of Al Kepiten


Member Since: Mar 7, 2011
Last Visit: May 11, 2014
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Point Rank: # 4,393
Total Points: 91
Last Year: 20
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 85 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 16 | Posts 35 | Stars 12 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Virginia

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 (1)

Aid, 7 pitches, 700'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan

Feb 20, 2013

Brain Surgery

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'

CA : Central Coast : ... : Old Stone Face

Jun 12, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Send!

Send!

General Climbing : The emotions of climbing. P... : Post

Jun 25, 2013

First time on El Cap

First time on El Cap

General Climbing : The emotions of climbing. P... : Post

Jun 25, 2013

Glory

Glory

General Climbing : The emotions of climbing. P... : Post

Jun 25, 2013

Looking at the Cap

Looking at the Cap

General Climbing : The emotions of climbing. P... : Post

Jun 25, 2013

10b flaring squeeze hell.

10b flaring squeeze hell.

General Climbing : Has anyone ever used a BD ... : Post

Aug 22, 2012

THe Knows of Al Kepiten

THe Knows of Al Kepiten

Jim Reynolds : Ah

Aug 3, 2012

Wide boys are still using this technique

Wide boys are still using this technique

Nevada : Off Width Recommendations N... : Post

Feb 2, 2012

Brain Surgery goes left after the first bolt but then goes back to the right once you stand up on the bulge in the bottom left. Finish on the finger crack on top

Brain Surgery goes left after the first bolt but then goes back to the right once you stand up on the bulge in the bottom left. Finish on the finger crack on top

CA : Central Coast : ... : Brain Surgery (5.11a)

Jun 12, 2011

Paul setting up the anchor after leading some random but beautiful crack on the SE side. Anyone familiar with this climb?

Paul setting up the anchor after leading some random but beautiful crack on the SE side. Anyone familiar with this climb?

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Voodoo Dome

Jun 4, 2011

Splitters at the SE side of Voodoo Dome.

Splitters at the SE side of Voodoo Dome.

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Voodoo Dome

Jun 4, 2011

Whites Punks on White Punks on Dope on Dope. Huge ledge at the belay atop the runout slab

Whites Punks on White Punks on Dope on Dope. Huge ledge at the belay atop the runout slab

Jim Reynolds : Needles May 27-30

Jun 1, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : The Enema (5.11b)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: I brought double to BD 3 on this. When I got to the top i still had both my 2's and 3's. I thought the bit up to the jug rest was harder than 10c, but the top still felt like the crux.

Wild route. I thought gear was pretty good, but it seemed very possible to take quite a ride if you blew it right at the top without taking time to finagle some gear. As long as you cleared the knobs it would be nice and clean though


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Fields of Fire (5.8)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: Like John said. If you're going to do this route, do it in one full pitch. The crux of both the link-up is directly above the first anchors, meaning a factor 2 fall potential for those belaying from those anchors. (Factor 2 falls are one of the worst things aside from decking because the catch is very static)


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Thin Man (5.9 R)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: Climb Thin Man again yesterday and realized my previous comment isnt very helpful. Yes there is a big fall potential on the route, but the runout ground is very straight forward.

I would not recommend this for a new 5.9 leader. Only a focused and confident leader should attempt this route. I think the runout on Shadow compares quite well. Not hard or demanding, but also not a joke

That aside, this is an amazing route with great movement. it flows so nicely


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Diamond (5.9)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Jan 29, 2012

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Comments: I dont see how Thin Man gets 5.9 R and this doesnt. I mean, come on, that first clip is terrifying. I led it today for the first time and honestly believed I was going to break my ankle.

PS This is THIN 5.9, not that juggy secure 5.9 that feels all nice and cozy.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Summit Blocks - West : Edgeucation (5.11a PG13)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: Fun route. A little soft for 5.11 i thought. I have no idea why anyone would call this route PG-13. There is a bolt ever six feet. Decent clip stances too.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Impacted Stool Crack (5.9)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: I led this again recently with the desire to see what the climb was like before the 2nd and 3rd bolt were added. I must admit, i felt like an idiot skipping the second bolt and chickened out, clipping the last bolt.

Personally i would love the route with just bolt 1+3, but the rock shouldn't be bolted to just my comfort level (unless i'm on the FA.) In conclusion, I agree that all the added bolts should be chopped, even if it turns the direct route into 5.10X or whatever.

Obviously, as other h... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Rusty's Cave (5.8)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: Led the second pitch of this a few weeks back (or Biemer's Trough as some call it.) It is surprising fun despite the sea of spongy lichen as key holds are clean-ish. It's not very run-out if you spend time with your gear placements.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Trial By Fire (5.8)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Jan 15, 2012

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Comments: As for protection i used a #3 and #4 BD Camelot. There are a few chockstones (2?) that can be used for protection. THe #3 helps get you through the first 15/20 ft. The #4 can be walked almost the entire rest of the pitch.

Pretty stout for 5.8 I thought, even though i consider myself a decent OW/Squeeze/Flare climber.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Dec 15, 2011

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Comments: I opted for the 5.9 squeeze over the 5.7 airy chimney. It was definitely the most intense part of the entire climb. There was no protection the entire way and it was HARD, not to mention painfully sustained.

I would not recommend it unless you are very proficient at squeeze chimneys. In comparison, the 5.8 after Thank God Ledge is a walk in the park. It is awesome if you like that kind of stuff though


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Western Airlines (5.11b)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: I disagree with Richard... if you use a nut it makes the awesome fingerlock less bomer and the move up to the next bolt is definately not 5.11... as long as your belayer is on top of things you shouldn't fall that far onto the second bolt (though i've never fallen on that move)


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Sl... (5.10b)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: I dont think this route is 10c anymore; a crucial hold broke, which coincidentally exposed a larger hold, thus making the crux not so cruxy

If you finish on the same ending as Camel, the move with the softball-like grip is probably 10c tho..


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Jamcrack Wall : Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts... (5.10b)
By: Jim Reynolds When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: Ya its definately very possible to do the crux move with a number 3... We even had a #4 but the #3 seemed to be less in the way. Fun route. It looks OW but there are solid fist jams


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