Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Jim Lawyer


Point Rank: # 660
Total Points: 929
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 4
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jim Lawyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 814 | Routes 31 | Areas 15 | Photos 58 | Page Improvments | Comments 104 | Posts 40 | Stars 532 | Ratings 34
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : White Knight (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: White Knight 5.10? Seriously?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Derek, I don't have much of an opinion where the initial grade comes from. I will say that even though guidebooks like ours try to get the grades right, there's always somebody that thinks they're wrong.

But regarding consensus grades on MP, I have a feeling that people only set the grade if their opinion differs from that which is posted. I don't think this is a true consensus since the only votes are the ones from people that disagree with the posted grade. Suppose the route is listed as 1... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Space Walk (5.11c/d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought the pure finger crack variation was perhaps the best route of its grade in the Tahoe area.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Some aspects of your description match Moss Cliff. Actually, I can think of no other 3-pitch-high cliff with a river crossing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, it's a bit dirty, and it's a little runout at the start. Even so, this an *incredible* pitch. Sustained, great moves, long, gear that appears just when you need it, and with a tricky heartbreaker crux at the top.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Pegasus (5.7+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The lone tooth that offered protection at the crux now sits shattered at the base of the route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Great Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Apr 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: RG: Well, there's not a bolt "in the offwidth". It's left, around the corner, and on another route. That said, the fact that it can be clipped from this route is seen by many to be too close, and takes something away from the aesthetics and adventure of this great line. It's still there, so perhaps nobody cares enough about it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Super Slab : Dimpled Chad (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There's some seriously flaky/crumbly rock on this one (even by J-Tree standards).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Mental Bankruptcy (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Mar 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: My guidebooks show 4 bolts, but there are only three. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3. After unclipping the 3rd bolt, the second faces groundfall.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Cascade Pass : Cysty Ugler (WI3+ M4+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Feb 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've always considered these to be the same line, but done in vastly different conditions.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Spike (WI4+ M4) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: OH yeah, that's Joe Szot in the red shirt.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Material Girl (M6)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Nice to see this getting attention. I think it's one of the great mixed lines of Chapel Pond. Being on the sunny side, it's one of the few options for those super cold days.

There are several additional options in this vicinity: To the right is a chimney called Twenty-nine Inch Waist; the name says it all. And to the left is Middle Earth (which is in the book).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Comment : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Haystack, outside Ausable Forks. Private land, unfortunately.


Location: NY : Adirondacks
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: odile: This is Haystack, documented in Mellor's 1986 guidebook, page 69. Yup, private land.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Piece Out (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Pitch two is one of the finest pitches at Potter. Well, except for all the other super amazing pitches at Potter.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: P1 is definitely the money pitch. P2 is meh. P3 is pretty good.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Azure Mountain : Chalk Full O' Nuts (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: King and I (King Wall)
Slim Pickins (Spider's Web)
Pox (Potter)
Bon Chance (Good Luck)

There may be others, but I won't know until I compile the index. I don't think it's a big deal.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Azure Mountain : Chalk Full O' Nuts (5.10b PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Todd, if you're going down that road, look at Crane. Reusing names seems to be a trend.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Jewels and Gems : Pearl necklace (5.8+ R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good gear exists the entire way, so this is PG, not R.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Spanky's Area : Nestle Wall : Nescafe' (5.5 PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was a surprisingly good route for the grade. Not sure about the "double cams", as I don't think there's enough places to put them. From the top, you can make a short rap to the anchors on Sheik of the Burning Sands (the winter route), then a 30m rap to the ground. Walking around the right end is quite long, slabby, and unpleasant.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Eagle Cliff : Eagle Crack (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I'd be very surprised if Ken has been here. But I do like surprises...what's the story?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Eagle Falls
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: katyg628: That's terrible about your sister's fall. I second the helmet advice at this cliff. (And, well, for pretty much any cliff.)

In my experience, the rock at Eagle Falls is friable and brittle. I've seen gear placements blow apart cracks that seemed solid. The original routes (and most of those documented in Adirondack Rock) were put in ground-up, have had no additional cleaning, and see very little traffic. Most need a session with a pry bar and scrub brush.

The newer routes (those docu... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Flashdance (5.10c PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If you're doing the Overture linkup, this branches left at the aforementioned "dinner table ledge".


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: With 60mm ropes, that would be quite a lot of raps :-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Good Luck Mountain : House of Cards (5.13a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Frank...how's Red Rocks???

I knew about that one (and, yes, it's in the park). It's private land, unfortunately. We'll have to make the corrections in the 2nd edition.


Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>