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Member Since: Feb 27, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Jim Howe


Point Rank: # 3,699
Total Points: 125
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jim Howe been climbing?










Contributions


All 37 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts | Stars 3 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : La Fin du Monde (5.10)
By: Jim Howe When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Sam, hope you had a good adventure and nice photo additions. Makes me want to get back out there.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Moonrise Variation (5.10d)
By: Jim Howe When: Mar 6, 2013

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Comments: Eric Breitenburger and I climbed and named this variation in the summer of 1985 or '86. It needed a lichen cleaning and friable flakes peeled off. This variation probably had not been climbed before because of the condition, but one never knows.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : ... : Photo
By: Jim Howe When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: There you go paul....looking at life through rose colored glasses. Thats the way to do it.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)
By: Jim Howe When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: That is what I remember about the bolt placement (but I could be wrong, it is "No Country for Old Men", of which I am quickly becoming). The pitch is committing. The most excitment on that pitch for us came near the end, where the first gear opportunity is questionable and it looked fairly easy, with the finish sooo close.
Aaron, good score on that fixed gear, Kent placed that under a high degree of stress!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Jim Howe When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Nice...a Joe Brown/Climb High helmet. But it should really be paired with EBs to make the most style points.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : ... : Photo
By: Jim Howe When: May 1, 2012

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Comments: dmssssss is correct, the route goes on the face below, it's not an uncommon Black Canyon style traverse pitch...goes up, goes down, then up. It follows good rock to get to the anchors. On one of our forays we also went under that roof... not very much fun. Guess that's why it's called Rockineering.
If I remember, there is a pin placed in a horizontal directly across from the belayer halfway out the traverse, but I'm not sure it is visible from the belay. The topo has it marked pretty accuratel... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : ... : Photo
By: Jim Howe When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: That is a fantastic photo... you have inspired me for the last 30+ years of my climbing life


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)
By: Jim Howe When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: The second bolt on pitch 10 is found after making a few moves along the slanting ramp that is the belay stance for the pitch. The topo (and scattered epic gear above) make it appear as though you might diagonal up directly off the belay.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a) : Photo
By: Jim Howe When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: The nice looking crack to the right is a variation called "Elk Scat" done sometime in the late 80's or a little later. It was reached by a pendulum, maybe off the bolt at the top of pitch 3, or lower from the belay of pitch 2


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: Jim Howe When: Aug 3, 2010

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Comments: P7 as described is easily avoided with a really nice pitch that starts on the right side of the huge chockstone. It is very obvious, It starts as a clean low angle corner right under the chockstone and steepens up. It is high quality in keeping with the rest of the route. It goes on for 70 meters and ends at the scramble to the summit. The topo that I have from the mid-80's shows it as the finishing pitch.
We did this route round trip from the parking lot in a 15-16 hours moving steady, but not... more >>


Location: tenesmus : Hardpan Heroics : Photo
By: Jim Howe When: Jun 27, 2008

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Comments: Unfortunely it's not ice.. I have gone out there a couple times searching for the illusive formation. That particular snow streak appears to be ice because it follows old flash flood paths through steep gravel. I put up a trad line on the peaks N face after failing to find ice during one foray out there.
Still... anything is possible with the right conditions. it would have to be melt-freeze since there is no spring that drains that area of the formation.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Appetite for Destruction (5.12a/b)
By: Jim Howe When: Aug 24, 2007

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Comments: While putting up the route, we were able to reduce the risks. We did'nt simuclimb any pitch as it really does expose the 2nd to rockfall from the leader. The belays are usually out of the way of the leaders on lead cleaning during the FA.
I love solid, well traveled rock routes as much as the next climber, but sometimes we look for some other kind of adventure, it sounds like you found it.
Like all of the routes on Notch, they clean up somewhat with traffic, but this will always require s... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Bottleneck Peak : Tippin The Botttle (5.11+)
By: Jim Howe When: Apr 16, 2007

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Comments: for extra "fingers" gear, think tips, I found tcus 1-2 and .3 camalots best for the crux pitch. #4 camalot was used only to protect the 5.8 flake, but #3 camalots seemed to always come in handy. I could'nt figure out the moves on the 5.10+ face and pulled through after flogging about there. Crux is pretty standard (but stout) desert fare but their are several puzzle problems scattered along the route, which makes it fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : The Incisor (5.10+)
By: Jim Howe When: Mar 29, 2007

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Comments: Tommie and I put that route up. I Intended to continue to the top but a chopper flake sits up there, and I never went back to it. It is definitely a sandbag. Quinlan and Jim Olsen did the second ascent and asked what I rated it. Under the influence of a superbowl tequila bash I said 10+,..It ain't. Where the name "pussy wuss" came from I have no clue. For me it was "the Incisor". up front and gnashing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Blue Sky Mining (5.10+)
By: Jim Howe When: Mar 29, 2007

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Comments: Keith Maas and I put up both of those shorter routes "Blue sky mining" and "Midnight Oil" sometime in the early 90's or whenever that music was getting airplay. Keith was killed in an avalanche near Logan, UT.about '97. Climbing does make nice reminders of good times with good friends.