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Member Since: Jun 28, 2003
Last Visit: Jul 9, 2009
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Point Rank: # 15,306
Total Points: 8
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 10 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 1 | Stars 1 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Jim Collins When: Jun 23, 2005

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Comments: Rating--depends on height. Easier for taller people.Upper crux feels about like Hagan's Wall difficulty (V5), lower section feels about like Consideration difficulty (V4) -- so it is essentially a V4 with a good shake followed up by a V5. Which adds up to something in the range of 12d.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c)
By: Jim Collins When: Aug 23, 2004

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Comments: This is a stellar route; Kudos to Fred and Dan for putting it together.

If you don't step around the corner to the right after the first crux to rest (which drops the difficulty), but instead stay to the left for a more taxing rest, then it is a comparable red point to Latest Rage at Smith Rock in Oregon, although more moves. It is a notch harder than Easy Skankin in Rifle, but a notch easier than Pretty Hate Machine. So, call it standard solid 5.12. (Certainly, no-one will call it... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rock Odyssey (5.12b)
By: Jim Collins When: Aug 11, 2004

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Comments: The last pitch of this route is problematic, and I'd recommend avoiding it. It has at least two good-sized semidetached blocks that could easily kill your belayer, not to mention people lower down, and the moves after the roof are strange, insecure, and manky.

Also, it seems that the crux lip turn is substantially harder than 12b -- it felt to be on the order of Your Mother or Flying Beast, or perhaps even harder. There might be a smart 12b way to do it, but I couldn't figure it out, even f... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Point Break (5.11a)
By: Jim Collins When: May 23, 2004

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Comments: Without question: P2 (the 10+) is the hardest, if you are leading. Be prepared to hang around on Eldo trad funk stuff and place Eldo trad funk gear and then do Eldo trad funk moves.Make sure you have your head on. The upper pitch is excellent, though a much easier lead. Superb position.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Jim Collins When: Oct 12, 2003

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Comments: Thanks, Charles. I knew I must have missed something, because I really didn't remember it being so run out from years ago. I was rushed for time, and I suspect I just totally missed the placement Josh found.

One question for those who do the route regularly: what do you think is the best approach link up -- Kings' X, Yellow Wall, come in from West Face, other?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Jim Collins When: Oct 7, 2003

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Comments: I last did this climb for the first time since I last did it 25 years ago, today. For whatever reason, I did not find any good placement at the final crux stepping into the rotten band, and was run out quite a ways (~20 feet) from the big cams. The moves are insecure, and it would be really good to get a piece in for the final exit. Does anyone know what piece goes in at the final crux, and if it is any good? Or do you just need to risk a 40+ foot fall? Just curious.

Stupendous route, if y... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Jim Collins When: Oct 4, 2003

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Comments: GEAR beta: On the headwall pitch, bring a Yellow Camalot for the start of the traverse off the belay ledge. You can reach way up and right to plug in the yellow camalot before beginning the traverse section. Also on the headwall pitch, bring lots (10 to 12) of extra runners to minimize rope drag.

Finally, be SURE to look down at the Bastille Crack as soon as you finish the opening traverse. It looks like a sidewalk, and makes the whole adventure fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Jim Collins When: Jun 28, 2003

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Comments: I just did this route for the first time in 25 years, and I found myself wondering, "Why didn't I get back to this sooner?" It is a beautiful climb. The crux for the leader, though, is not the moves themselves, but hanging out to place gear to protect your second. If your limit is 10-, you will find this a worthy challenge--harder than most other climbs for the same grade. Best to do pitches 1 and 2 in one lead, so that you will not hit your belay partner if you fall off pitch 2. Use lots o... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Found Ring in Animal World parking lotLost and FoundJim CollinsJul 9, 2009

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Lucid Dreaming 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle