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Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Slippery Slope (5.10+)
By: jhump When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fine climbing, but the difficulty is somewhat contrived in places. Look closely as you clip those bolts, as you may notice that if you were climbing 15' left or right, you would be on an easy crack or some jugs. Oh well, the moves are good and the climb is fun. Not 10+. The rebolt looks good- the originals are strong as bubble gum these days. B stepped up and led the crux. She is the not a strong slabber and found the crux trivial.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Oblivion Roof : Killer Karma (5.11d)
By: jhump When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Confirmed! The last hanger is gone. This makes for a memorable runout to the anchors facing a 50 footer. An onsight to remember.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
By: jhump When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Descent comments: In 2007, I did the North Ridge and descended to the North and West at no harder or more dangerous than 2nd/3rd class. This seemed to be the quickest way back to the start of the North Ridge. Yesterday, we climbed Syke's and decided to try the South and East descent option. I did not care for it, but here is how we did it:
The descent starts at the saddle between the sub-summit where Syke's tops out and the true summit- you will see some cairns leading east (out over the fa... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: jhump When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took 10 tries to send, but was so close after 3 tries- so frustrating. I fell on the upper dyno move every time as the July heat made my palms drip. I have seen much stronger climbers than I fall from the upper diagonal crack. You muscle heads need to learn to jam!!! Any 5.10 crack climber should never fall after that last dyno.
What a route. What a relief to be done. The mystique surrounding this one is real. Time for a beer.
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Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : Main Overhang : Rock Till You Drop (V4-5)
By: jhump When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never been to this area, just a quick question- How can 5.9+ turn into V5 if you take the rope away? 5.9+ is closer to V0-. Rope or no rope, the grade is the same.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10) : Photo
By: jhump When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yessssssssssss. Finally a Mountain Project cover shot. Now I can retire as a photographer.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: jhump When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After 2 trips up this one (mid-May for both), I still think the first pitch is the crux. Wet, physical, and foot destroying- the first pitch pin scars are the crux for me. The 5.10d crux offers all the solid gear you desire. You can hang out and place pleny of small cams. I think I fished in 4 from the stance at the little black blob and above. Pinky fingers fit bomber in the locks. Go for it!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Sons of Yesterday (5.10a/b)
By: jhump When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In late-May 2009, I witnessed a scary near miss by a party rapelling below me. They were rapping from one of the trees on the first hard pitch of SOY. They were using 2x60 meter ropes. They were simul-rapping, with a hard diagonal to the right, attempting to reach the top of Serenity Crack (the anchor just above the 5.10d). One of them, who was not wearing shoes, was down in the gulley and nearing the anchor, suddenly slipped. He rocketed across the face and whipped out of sight, landing in... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Rock Wars (5.10a)
By: jhump When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a must do. One of the most memorable and excellent single pitches I have ever done- and that was 11 years ago.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Autumn (5.9-)
By: jhump When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do it like I did it. Only have a few trad leads to your name. Go to the Red in Mid-July. Hike up to Long Wall on a day when you are sure it will rain any minute- 100% humidity. Place all your hand sized gear early in the lead, run out of chalk. Dry the backs of your hands on your pants and gun it through the crux lucky to be alive. Lower as the rain dumps buckets, like it only can in Kentucky. Classic.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Surreal Estate (5.12c)
By: jhump When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guidebook gives it .12c and says "a little soft at the grade." I don't know about that? The mid-way crux felt pretty stout. I use a left hand bowling ball or six pack like grip, right hip to the wall and...just go for for it. What a great route. The finish is wild!
Does the route start straight up without touching the mantel start for Unusual Weather or without using the dihedral to the right? If these holds are off, then the start could be the crux of the route.
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Location: OH : Logtown : Big Cliffs : Burrsitus (5.6)
By: jhump When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I cant count how many times I've done this route- leading, top roping, soloing, rope soling, aiding, etc. It is really a great little climb with fun moves. Some of my earliest climbing memories involve watching my Dad smear desparately over the lip to gain the ledge and a solid handshake to follow.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Super Suka (5.12a)
By: jhump When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crazy story for me to share from last weekend...My partner Brandi started up the route after I tried it. I had started in the corner to the left of the first bolt. It was a little sketchy, so I suggested that she try the easy looking ramp to the right. She got her feet up about 10 feet to the ledge that you clip from. As she fully stood up, she pulled on a small but solid looking crimp and it exploded! She clawed at the wall searching for purchase for what seemed like an eternity. I scream... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: jhump When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Shoulder" approach safety issue!
I was up there on 5/19-5/20. I approached via the John Muir/Mist Trail and descended to the start near the cables at the shoulder. There is still a big snowfield to cross just before you drop down to the NW Face proper, maybe 300 yards from the route's start. Currently, there is a rope fixed to a tree on the uphill side (side nearer the cables, not the start of the route). The rope runs across the snowfield in a traverse and appears to be fixed as a handline on... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: jhump When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the route under the rap line? A few steep face moves rising left to a nice crack. I think it ends at the mid way rap station.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Childhood's End (5.12- R)
By: jhump When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the route 5/11/09 with Brandi. I only had the old Stewart Green "Rock Climbing Colorado" guidebook as a reference, so I will share some newer info.
Approach: We approached from the east via Metberry Gulch (road 205). It was rough, but not bad for my stock Chevy 4x4 pickup. Allow 2.5 hours of driving from the Golden/Denver area. We parked in the obvious pullout loop on top of the hill, just before the road descends steelpy toward the rocks. We ended up walking all the way to the ri... more >>
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Location: OH
By: jhump When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Under Squaw Rock section is Logtown. This should not be here. Logtown has its own section and is nowhere near Squaw Rock (75 miles away?).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome
By: jhump When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have always heard that Higbee/Erickson did not free the final bolt ladder. Leonard Coyne later freed everything in 1979. Is this correct?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Not One Of Us (5.12a)
By: jhump When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the crux roof lip there is a grapefruit sized block for the left foot- that is pretty loose. I could wiggle it easily with my fingers. The belayer stands immeditely below this block. It is not necessary to get your feet anywhere near the block. My feet don't get within 3 feet of it. No more hints or I would give it away. I will say that my sequence allowed my roof-averse girlfriend easy passage over the lip.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: jhump When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know when the Rampart Range Road (access road for D.H.) will reopen for 2009? Also, does it only reopen when conditions allow, or is it based on a mandatory minimum date?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Dogma (5.11c)
By: jhump When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! On 3/17/09, we climbed free to the final ledge before running into a snow bank guarding the upper pitches. The last 2 pitches before the ledge had been very wet. We called it a day and started rapping. Bring a single 70 meter for safe raps.
My rack:
14 quickdraws (4 of these tripled up 24" runners)
5 medium stoppers (maybe BD size 4-8)
#0 (purple) tcu
#1 (blue) Mastercam
Yellow, Red, Gold: Aliens
Red Camalot
Pitch 4 is exciting with an opening thin section followed... more >>
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Location: OH : Ohio Ice and Mixed
By: jhump When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Many climbs in the Ohio River Valley and its tributaries throughout Columbiana County. Many climbs in the Cleveland Metroparks. West of Cleveland (can't remember the name) are some very big flows. The best ice in Ohio is Bedford (shhhhhhhhhhh).
Low profile everywhere you go!
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Silverado (5.11b)
By: jhump When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Real and continuous 11 climbing with excellent moves throughout. You do not need to use the giant scary block AT ALL.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: jhump When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the finest route I have done at Shelf so far (50 or so routes). This climb has it all. Begin with an engaging boulder problem right off the ground. Big moves on positive pockets lead to the arete. Delicate and technical moves finish it off. The finish will blow your mind- and maybe your onsight.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Raw and the Roasted (5.11c)
By: jhump When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route with great holds throughout. More than a few notches softer than its neighbor "In the morning you'll be mine." I found it to be easier than some 11b's at Shelf.
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