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Member Since: May 5, 2010
Last Visit: Dec 6, 2012
Contact J.Flunker


Point Rank: # 6,102
Total Points: 55
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has J.Flunker been climbing?










Contributions


All 55 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 7 | Stars 8 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Espionage

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall

Sep 25, 2011

Electrocutioner

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (7)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

IL : Jackson Falls : Railroad Area

Nov 17, 2010

Quail Stew

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (3)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall

Sep 19, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Hammer Club (V8)
By: J.Flunker When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: This is an interesting debate. It brings up the question of how to define an actual independent line or a variant, and secondarily, how this information is reported on MP.
In my experience the most simplistic solution is that routes with shared holds are variants (aside from those with only the same start holds). This is the standard procedure for bouldering areas of some importance that I have visited in the states/Canada such as Hueco, Yosemite Valley, Joe's Valley, Horse Pens 40, Rock Town, ... more >>


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Secret Agent Man (5.13a)
By: J.Flunker When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: I was on SAM today and there were about 10 obscenely large (3-4 inch) tick marks on the crux holds.
To whoever did this:
The ticks look like shit and represent a major oversight in aesthetics. There are plenty of natural features on the rock to guide your hand placements. However, if you insist on using such large tick marks at least clean them off when you are finished with your climbing session. Remember this is a multi-use area for many user groups. We are not in the climbing gym anymore...


Location: mandyf : wall photos : Photo
By: J.Flunker When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: What route is this?
Rifle?
Nice shot!


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Elders of the Tribe (5.12c)
By: J.Flunker When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: FA=John Payne


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Espionage (5.11)
By: J.Flunker When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: may have been done before...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall
By: J.Flunker When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: DO NOT STEAL ANCHOR BINERS!
The stainless "steal" carabiners found on the anchors of the "warm up" slab routes at the Qual wall have been removed. These carabiners are FIXED GEAR and were added as a community service to climbers.
To whomever took the carabiners:
Return the carabiners to the anchors of the climbs from which they were taken.
Or
Get in contact with myself (or any of the Madison area climbers who post on MP regarding the Qual wall) so that the biners can be returned.
Thanks.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Moo Stache (V6)
By: J.Flunker When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Cool V5 variation immediately heads out right from the start to the large sidepull (similar to Remo's beta above except skip the sharp left crimp). Seemed like the obvious line of least resistance to me (especially after the good right hand hold that was used to get the sharp left crimp broke yesterday afternoon).


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Y-Crack (aka Old and in the... (5.10c)
By: J.Flunker When: Nov 17, 2010

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Comments: No harder than 10c...
When compared to: "Outer Limits" (10c):Valley; "Lunatic Fringe" (10c):Valley; "Reed's Pinnacle Direct" (10a):Valley; 5.10 pitches on the "Rostrum":Valley; "Illusion Dweller" (10b):J-tree; "Clean and Jerk" (10c):J-tree; "O'kellys Crack" (10d/11a):J-tree; "Split Pillar" pitch (10b) on the "Grand Wall":Squamish. etc...etc...etc...
These are part of the frame of reference for grading 5.10 crack climbs. (Note:... more >>


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Railroad Area : Ego Tripping (5.9+)
By: J.Flunker When: Nov 17, 2010

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Comments: Rope is on "Electrocutioner" anchors I believe...
"Eletrocutioner" = arete route. 5.8+/5.9. Thurmond route.
"Ego Tripping" = face route to the left of "into the sun". 5.10
2 bolted routes total left of "into the sun".


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : South Faces : Choss to Treasure (5.12a)
By: J.Flunker When: Nov 13, 2010

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Comments: Lets keep the flake. Maybe some epoxy behind it would help...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Secret Agent Man (5.13a)
By: J.Flunker When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: Top this out for full value ~13a!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Fahrenheit 23 (5.12c PG13)
By: J.Flunker When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: I have seen the right variation go but not the left variation. Left variation = razor crimps on less than ideal rock quality.
...Don't touch that crack...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Fahrenheit 23 (5.12c PG13)
By: J.Flunker When: Nov 2, 2010

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Comments: There appears to be a sequence both left (no bottom shared holds) AND right (shares bottom holds w/right 12a route) of the bottom 4 bolts = 2 sequence options...
This may account for the lack of grade clarity?


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : The Gallery : Photo
By: J.Flunker When: Oct 24, 2010

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Comments: 10-


Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Tsunami (5.12d)
By: J.Flunker When: Oct 19, 2010

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Comments: Man. I wish that were the case. That would be impressive!
...No, unfortunately I have to work for my 12s and 13s...

Also, looking for someone to climb with at willow, Wednesday (Oct. 19)?


Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Tsunami (5.12d)
By: J.Flunker When: Oct 18, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the knee-bar info. I had figured out the finagling-knee-bar-with-slopey-feet and found it to be strenuous and definitely kind of pointless. The reason the knee-bar interested me is that I had heard of someone getting a no-hands knee-bar. Not happening for me...
However, no big deal:
No knee-bars = more fitness!
Training bonus...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : Quail Stew (5.10+)
By: J.Flunker When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: someone needs to repeat this...good times...


Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Tsunami (5.12d)
By: J.Flunker When: Oct 8, 2010

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Comments: What is the story with the pre crux knee-bar on this route? From what I understand the 12d/13a grade is dependent upon the knee-bar. Getting a solid knee -bar here seems to be very specific to distance between foot and knee.

Also, did a hold break semi-recently on the traverse towards the end of the crux (i.e. right of the knee-bar and directly above bad slopey pod and softball hold)?


Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishin' ... : South Faces : Choss to Treasure (5.12a)
By: J.Flunker When: Oct 1, 2010

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Comments: Watch for loose rock on the first half of this climb!
I dislodged the brick sized pinch/foothold at the lip of the first roof which subsequently collided with my belayer's hip 25 feet below. No injuries miraculously, but if this had been a head shot many stitches would have been involved.
  • **Wearing a helmet while belaying may actually be cool if it helps to avoid skull fractures/scalp lacerations!



Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : A Red Recollection (5.11a)
By: J.Flunker When: Oct 1, 2010

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Comments: Happy to hear you enjoyed it Chris.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall : A Red Recollection (5.11a)
By: J.Flunker When: Sep 18, 2010

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Comments: True Red Recollection (AKA Red Recollection Direct), 11b (or so):
J. Flunker, September 17, 2010.
This may have been done before?...
Start down in pit (on ground) 8 feet below typical start boulder for Red Recollection. Pull some 5.10 hand jams (avoiding the boulder behind you) to reach the original start of Red Recollection. Continue up Red Recollection to the chains.
The boulder will be out of play if you hand jam. Yes, sport climbers, hand jam...
Gives you that oh so pleasant red-river-esqu... more >>


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : High School Romancer (5.10a)
By: J.Flunker When: Sep 15, 2010

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Comments: Almost as fun as senior prom...


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