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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Rode Hard and Put Up Wet (5.12c)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very Nice Climb. I felt the intro slab had thin holds, but good enough feet that I would grade in the mid 11 range. The upper crux felt like a two bolt boulder problem. I wouldn't call the route sustained, mainly powerful. I tend to enjoy sustained routes like the nearby Wind and Rattlesnakes, but the great movement on this route make it a crag classic at the grade.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Penis Dimension (5.10c)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super duper trick beta in the second paragraph for the crux pod - do not read ahead if you want the true onsight. The trick beta advice IS neither 1) laybacking up the right side of the crack - which hasn't gotten anyone I know up the route, particularly on lead 2) stemming or climbing over to climb and punishment, which I feel is a variation on the climb 3) nor jamming the crack straight on, which is good and fine if you can IMHO.
BETA ALERT: Read no further if you do not want to be tainted by... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Buttonrock : Old Yellar Dome : Old Yellar (5.13a)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux crimp broke this summer. Have not been on it since, likely harder now.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420's : Can Opener (V9)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The starting flake did break. I noticed this June '08. The position for the hands seems pretty similar, but the initial heel hook is gone / very poor.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall : EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill V... (5.12c)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Aug 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: EKV starts with nice climbing along a 'slabby' prow. The angle kicks back on jugs. Fairly easy (but pumpy) climbing leads to the powerful and technical crux. Even after the hardest moves, EKV stays out you for a couple of bolts. Superb!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Ghost Dance (5.11) : Photo
By: Jesse Ryan When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When was this taken? Cool composition!
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Line. A little spicy clipping some of the early clips off of the poor feet. Real fun laybacking, solid for grade (10c).
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Whips Chaps and Chains (5.11c)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bouldery, fun, hard to read.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Saddle Tramp (5.12a)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent line. Bouldery. Found it hard to read.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side : Tribal War (5.11b)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes at the Iris of any grade and the best 11b hands down. Get on it! Love the two styles of climbing to be had on TWar.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Gaucho (5.10d)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great! 2nd Andy's Comments on the clipping the anchors, and I'm just over 5'9".
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Zorro (5.11d)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line -- 11 enduro climbing
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry : Take Your Hat Off (5.10b)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line, has hard moves for a low 10 leader trying to warm up. Big moves.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector D'or et Bleu : Pussytoes (5.12d)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the grade: The lower crux was on par but a tad easier than the crux on Twitch in Clear Creek. Obviously the line is more continuous above the initial crux than Twitch, thus I felt the line was solid at 12d.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Big Kahuna Pillar
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since the Kahuna Pillar is adjacent to the new routes and the Trunk Corner, I'll add some of those routes here.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall : Colors of Heaven (5.10)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun set of pitches. Thought the 2nd could be a bit scary for a 5.9 leader -- was a bit dirty and a tad run-out. !st and 3rd are the gems, 1st for movement, 3rd for exposure.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Munitions Roof : Wicked as an M-16 (5.11a)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Move Me to the Munitions Roof section!
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Vietnam : Hanoi Hilton (5.11d)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This should be moved to the Vietnam section!
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch
By: Jesse Ryan When: Sep 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One can also approach the FCR via the upper pullout - the one with the bovine management placard. Cross the road and stroll down the shoulder to a barbed wire gate. Hop the fence and follow meandering trails that lead beneath the Mondo's initial walls. Beware cow patties. Eventually the trail ascends through pine forests to the aforemention skull. Hike right for the FCR proper. You will pass some slightly / non developed sections of rock, and several gaps in the cliff bands before reaching t... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Bug Squad (5.11d R)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Aug 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bug Squad is as fun on TR as Max Factor. Leading Bug Squad can be rewarding. It can also induce puckering. I can't tell you what falling off of Bug Squad might feel like.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Right Eliminator (V4)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Aug 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Other starting BETA: for those who like little crimps and want something different than the sometimes frustrating, sometimes fun, jump start, try this 'static' start. Uses obvious R crimp and small L crimp in the seam. Perch on the L foot (where most paste the right for the jump start) and dead hang pasting the right foot high on the far face (sometimes you'll nab a toe hook). Crank. This option might open the line up to those who are vertically challenged but can crimp down.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Aug 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is on par to other 12c's in the canyon if you get the right sneaky beta. I did moves similar to what Greg Hand describes -- not 11 moves before I moved my right hand though -- nice work man! In particular, the left hand thumb gaston w/ right foot heel hook is key. Never thought I'd utter that sentence, but it's true. I'm 5'9" ish, and my friend Ken is 6', and it worked for him. Try the trick techy beta, and she shouldn't feel too bad.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Flying Cowboys (5.12d)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Aug 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt 'Flying Cowboys' was harder via more bouldery moves than 'Sucking ...', I felt FC was 12d. Then again, on a cool crisp day, maybe not.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Spelunk Spire : Old Dogs New Trick (5.11 V2+)
By: Jesse Ryan When: May 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice history lesson on this one. Scarpelli climbs hard on all sizes!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : King Cat (5.11+)
By: Jesse Ryan When: Jan 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely stellar. Just smaller than fists or super super insecure cups for me at the top of the corner = placing #3 Camalot from layback. Roof Mantle = power.
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