Comments: I would say that after my first comment, I have come to agree and understand the replacement done by Rob and Jason. It was a needed thing. As far as sustainability and longevity in the fishers I think that putting solid bolts is quite appropriate and thank you for taking the time. I am sorry for any comments that detracted from the send. I am in favor of these free climbing efforts and believe they are truly sustainable especially when compared to the gear lists of Jeremy's that include 20-30 p... more >>
Comments: As the internet, and therefore Mountain Project, is not static or fixed, I am not rewriting anything. I am very aware of the fact that all of these routes have been done and re-done again. My intentions are not to claim any of these route as mine, or to rewrite history as you say. As names and FA parties become available, I will change and update the routes. I do not agree that it is disrespectful. I simply give it a name to differentiate between climbs as having 20-30 "unknowns" would be confu... more >>
Comments: Although the route is long, there are many rests. I thought that this was more of a 5.11 to 5.11+. Thanks to whoever updated the anchors semi-recently. Anyone know any info about the thing crack with a bolt at the beginning that is to the left of this climb?
Comments: You probably saw the bolt/sling that is 30 feet past the existing anchor. I had heard that it originally went to there, but not to the top, but they decided to lower anchors to where the good rock ends.
Comments: The new route, Doppelganger, offers a save direct rap for any of the lines on the Mother's Buttresses. To find the raps, you have to go 60 feet up canyon from the top of Questions and Answers. At a prow, there is a large dead pinyon pine. The anchors are slightly lower than the lip. A 70m rope will work for the first rap, but you need double ropes for the final two.
Comments: There is a slightly harder variation to the first pitch. Climb original line for 20 feet than step right on the sloping ledge and climb up the slightly broken rock to a bolt and ledge. Then Climb the right dihedral and come up on the right side of the belay ledge.
Comments: If you continue up the steep crack where it narrows to where you can chimney, there is a ledge with two sets of anchors, one in front of you (old angles) and the one behind you is a new anchor. -Jesse
Comments: The route to the left is not a 5.7, in fact it is the start to two 5.12 climbs. The slings are just bail points. I would recommend that if you want to do the beginning section of these 5.12 routes, to just climb to the first pitch of Titus Groan and top rope it. A rats nest of webbing around a chock stone a quarter the way up an existing route is not justification for putting in anchors. -Jesse