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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Titus Groan (5.10)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Aug 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route to the left is not a 5.7, in fact it is the start to two 5.12 climbs. The slings are just bail points. I would recommend that if you want to do the beginning section of these 5.12 routes, to just climb to the first pitch of Titus Groan and top rope it. A rats nest of webbing around a chock stone a quarter the way up an existing route is not justification for putting in anchors.
-Jesse
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Titus Groan (5.10)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch anchors and protection bolts for the routes below Titus Groan have been replaced courtesy of the ASCA.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Sun Towers : Daffy Duck Pinnacle (5.9+)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jul 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rap bolts have been replaced. Look over the edge on the side closest to buttress behind the pinnacle to see two rap hangers above the ledge you step down to. Careful of loose rock when you pull the rope.... Courtesy of the ASCA.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Photo
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jun 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, don't know what I was smoking. Totally thought it was a different area. Shows how long it has been since I have been out there.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Photo
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tiara Tower.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Photo
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jun 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Come on, Skyeler! Hah.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Bridge of Air (5.12-)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Jun 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry about the rope. It will be gone soon. Booty my rope?
-Jesse
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado
By: Jesse Zacher When: May 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The WCCC has been investigating this and has found that as far as the authorities, park and local, the trail is not to be used as an access point. Though originally all drainage coming from the monument were legal access points that were supposed to be upheld in perpetuity, the reality is that all the new subdivisions and building up against The Monument has created a land divisions that do not include these access points, so legally the landowners are told they have some sort of right to the la... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Superchief Boulders Area : Superchief Boulder
By: Jesse Zacher When: May 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is on private property. The Quarry next to it is open on week days. Best to hit it up on the weekends. They do not really like people there.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Guide's Route (5.9)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route now has a a bolted rappel. Climb to the saddle before the choss begins. You can either continue up and rappel farther up canyon or, since the good climbing is finished, look down canyon from the saddle and see two bolts on the climber's right side of the chimney/gully. Make a double rope rappel and look for a small ledge outside of the chimney/gully again on climbers right. One more double rappel gets you to the ground.
You can get to the saddle in just over two pitches with a 60m ro... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess in my brain I have distinction between aid climbs and free climbs. This is probably silly especially with all the amazing things going on with free climbing. Often when a party would like to free climb an old aid climb (which is totally bad ass and great), they will either climb it with in place gear options or do a variation where they can bolt/place and make it safer so that they are not altering the original line.
It is only fair to admit that routes done from back in the day will ... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recently the ASCA has sponsored the Western Colorado Climbers' Coalition to replace anchors in the area. If you notice an anchor in need of replacement, please email the WCCC at western_co_climbers@hotmail.com.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Catch a Wave (5.11a)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Apr 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 3/12/10 this route has been updated with new equipment courtesy of the ASCA.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel it is a shame that most of the character of this route has been robbed because some hard men felt it was needed to be freed. In making it safer for your free climbing adventure, you have degraded a classic. Oh the day of 1/4"ers in the fisher is nearing an end.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : The Dragon (5.9 A4 R)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing The Hallucinogen, this route has sat in the back of my mind as a smoldering ember. I am still trying to step up to it. I remember reading that quote from Rustie about if he didn't finish the route, he wasn't really living. Thanks for the topo, Phil. I have printed it off and it will stand in front of me reminding me of my dues.
-Jesse
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon
By: Jesse Zacher When: Mar 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had some equipment from this area stolen as well. I would recommend tightened screw links on the bolt side of quick draws.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Bridge of Air (5.12-)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Mar 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: All bolts and rap station have been replaced with new 1/2" stainless steel bolts thanks to the ASCA. Give a donation to the ASCA!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Optical Illusions (5.11)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Feb 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: All the bolts/hangers have been updated thanks to the generous donation of the ASCA!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Simple Mind (5.11-)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Feb 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of January 30th 2010 this route has been updated with new bolts and hangers courtesy of the ASCA and the WCCC. Enjoy, and donate to the ASCA for their generosity!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Crack (5.0)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps until you have climbed the route and have a good idea of what the rating is, it should not be posted?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Hand/Fist Crack (5.0) : Photo
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Said Climber has denied such things. But who knows!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Things Fall Apart (5.13-)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Send!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon
By: Jesse Zacher When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some words have been added to the area's description. Obviously some of the issue is ignorance. This brings up the constant issue of information. Do we then make available information on as many established lines as possible and possibly push the popularity (which is already on the rise). Or do we just rip out bolts and police as much as possible?
-Jesse Zacher
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rough Canyon
By: Jesse Zacher When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please camouflage your bolts and anchors. I spoke with a BLM officer today and he said that if more routes go up that are visible they will try and ban new routing in the area.
Thanks,
Jesse Zacher
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mighty Mouse Wall : ... : 5. 1000 Headed Dragon (5.11-)
By: Jesse Zacher When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't unless you are feeling sporty.
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